JBL Audio Players & Recorders - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

As long as its not blowing the fuse it can be saved - look for Edwards Electronics - Ebay - We fix them . Thanks.

If the red light is flashing you have a short in a speaker wire. IF that light is on all the time it indicates that the voltage to the amp is too high.

The process involved in troubleshooting and repairing that amp requires specialized tools and meters. You would need to check all the capacitors to see if they are okay by using ESR and capacitance meters, To check the semiconductors you need to unsolder at least one leg and check them unless they are integrated multistaged devices. IF they are you need to check their current draw.

An answer I given to another post. While walking in my neighborhood, a JBL PB10 was thrown away for garbage pickup. I can use another subwoofer so I brought the orphan JBL PB10 home. It has the same problem. I am a retired electrical engineer. If I get the schematic, I might be able to fix it. I indeed found the service manual from the following URL. It turned out you can fix the problem by just cutting off one pin of a transistor. I don't think most people are interested in theory, but just a brief and then the solution. JBL PB10 service manual http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/userpics/10004/JBL%20PB10%20Service.pdf The manual is for the version 6.3 circuit board. I have a version 7.3. But, they are the same for my purposes. The LED lights are controlled by an integration circuit shown on page 28. When the signal at the low level line input is smaller than 5mv rms, the LED lights are set to red. In the meanwhile, the integration circuit set the Q1 junction FET transistor to on so the SIG signal is grounded to subdue any nuisance of noises (no sound produced). When there is a significant signal at the line input, the integration circuit set the LED light to green and turns off the Q1 transistor so the SIG signal can be freely amplified by the AIM power amplifier.When the integration circuit malfunctions, most probably C42 fails (could also be C40 and/or C41). I don't have any capacitors at hand to fix so I just cut off one of the three pins in the Q1 transistor to disable it from grounding the SIG signal. Q1 location could be found on page 26. The pin to cut off is one of the two outer pins. It is the one further away from C40. Once you cut the pin off, the sound will be back. But the LED lights remain red.

Hello
For the JBL Awake
I just had the same issue and i found a way to solve this :
1. Unplug the power supply
2. Plug it back while holding the [ON/OFF] button
3. The screen shows “UP9” again
4. Do the update with the JBL Music app (I did it with my old iPhone 4s plugged on the 30pin connector)
5. Finish the firmware update ... until the app tells you to unplug the power before restarting the device
(Sorry for my bad English, i’m French)

To reset JBL LINK VIEW PRESS THE PHYSICAL VOLUME UP & DOWN BUTTON TOGETHER FOR ABOUT 8 SECONDS ....CHEERS

Maybe because they are difficult to find now a days and there are a lot of them around too.

Check your charger point

The controls for the JBL Charge 3 are up top and you have volume up and down, Bluetooth pair, power, play/pause, and a button to link this device to other JBL speakers. There is no skip button, but if you hit the play button twice quickly it will skip to the next song

Only from JBL

The service manual is posted in this but if you dont have the test gear that is required, it is not much use. https://www.scribd.com/document/143852098/PB12-JBL-pdf

https://www.jblpro.com/ProductAttachments/EON%20600%20Users%20Guide.pdf

You need to gently prise off the front speaker grill. You could use a blunt pen knife to do this. After you remove the grill You will see 4 additional screws at roughly each corner of the front panel. Unscrew them and then you can use the pen knife once more to prise apart the speaker housing. Prise the housing apart from the top because two base pads hold both halves together at the bottom. I hope this helps! :)

Assuming Bluetooth mode. Insure Bluetooth is enabled on the iPad and the JBL and that they are in the pairing mode.

Sometimes I find it necessary to restart a device to get its Bluetooth pairing mode to connect to the device I am trying to connect it to, such as a speaker or even my car.

Only if your tv has bluetooth

Try doing default factory settings. Step 1. Press the "Power" button located on the top center part of your JBL Charge 4 Bluetooth speaker. The speaker will be powered on when the LED backlight under the Power button is lit. Step 2. Hold down the "Bluetooth" and "Volume Up" buttons at the same time for roughly three seconds. The Volume Up button looks like a plus sign. Additionally, it's important to hold down the "Bluetooth" button in the center of the device next to the Power button, as it's easier to hold down. After three seconds, the LED ring around the Power and Bluetooth buttons will briefly light up before the JBL Charge 4 powers down. Step 3. Press the "Power" button again to turn the JBL Charge 4 Bluetooth speaker back on. The Charge 4 will instantly turn on in Discovery mode, with the Bluetooth LED blinking on and off, and the speaker making a pinging sound. This confirms that you've successfully reset your JBL Charge 4 to its default factory settings. You'll need to pair or re-pair any devices you want to play audio through the JBL Charge 4 speakers with the device.

Here is the link below for JBL Charge CE1588

That is a bluetooth speaker sir. Standard device. ANY device with bluetooth should be able to use the speaker with no drivers other than the ones included on the playing device

Did you ever find out what was wrong? Mine is doing this now.

Just visit the site linked here; only and if you're technically qualified. If not, contact any service technician to repair this set. https://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ If you're aware, you'll get something. If not nothing. OK?