Igloo Cooler Freezers - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

do you have the old fuse? If so, carefully read the engraved markings on it

a general E2 error involves the temp sensor or control board.It may be different for ruey shing. Try unplugging the unit for a minute and plug back in.

how do you know the power is on if all the lights are off? If you are referring to the main supply, then maybe there is a reset button on the unit. If the unit is running, then without a manual I can't tell what the lights are for either.

Amber light indicates the fast freeze option.

Use an oversized AWG cord, e.g. #12, #10 AWG to avoid voltage drop in the cord. I guess each unit needs 5 amps for total of 10 amps when both run at once.
With a 14 Gage cord (0.5 ohm @ 200' wire) and with both units starting up at same time, the current (amps) draw is 60 amps (6x running current) and 1800 watts, the 1800 watts consumed by the cord, this power dissipated as heat. The 1800 divided by the 60 ( watts/amps = volts) years a voltage drop of 30 volts, at start up of the two compressor motors if at 5 amps flc (full load current). This scenario with a 14 gage, 100' cord is problem bound so a thicker wire cord is needed to keep voltage drops within 10% of the load's rated voltage. Use a 10 or 12 Gage cord or two separate cords.

Do you know why it is against ordinance?

Just chip it off

Is the freezer working first off?

normally tight i use a pair of good pliers

possibly to avoid the possibility of water pooling on top of it and thus allowing the water to seep inside of the relay and kill it.

Most freezers now will cycle the power light on and off when the unit is operating. When it turns off, the unit has reached temperature.

There is probably a safety device of some description incorporated into the design though it probably isn't to blame for the trouble. You need to discover whether it is the fan, compressor or both; neither should run constantly. The condenser fan is only needed while the compressor is pushing the refrigerant around the circuit and in many designs, where a belt driven compressor is used it is usual for the fan to be mounted on the extended motor shaft so they can't run independently. If the compressor runs constantly and the cabinet doesn't suffer from excessive freezing it is almost certain either the compressor is failing or there is a leak and refrigerant is being lost - probably the latter.

its not running correctly- getting warmer-ajar door

bad news sounds like a gas leak or faulty compressor neith worth repairing

Try sealing the door with tape to see if the thermostat will work to turn it off. My Kenmore upright freezer had a separate cross seal down quite low, on the freezer not the door. I reversed the door seal so the damaged top part was below the cross seal and voila, no more leak. If it needs a thermostat I suggest getting it sealed first. Mine was only 10 or so years old but Sears Parts said seal no longer available. Good luck

Might be for quick freeze. Have you Googled the model number?

Try this; https://www.newair.com/blogs/learn/clean-ice-maker

1-866-509-3503

The mfg is required to put that info on the model & seril plate, at least for all usa appliances. If its an import i guess anything goes, no rules. Try googel the mfg snd model number

Can you blow it out with compressed air? If so leave it together, and blow it out.