Honda Electrical Supplies - Page 5 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

You have to pull the rear (muffler end) cover, rear muffler protector (the metal vent), the rear handle, the lower end plate, and the fiber muffler protector so you have access to the head cover. Remove the head cover, disconnecting the breather tube as you do it. Turn the engine (using pull handle) to top dead center compression (both valves fully closed). Use feeler gauge to check the valve clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem. Intake should be .15mm +/- .02mm (.006in +/- .001) Exhaust should be .20mm +/- .02mm (.008in +/- .001) Adjust as needed by loosening the rocker arm pivot locking nut and adjusting the rocker arm pivot. Tighten the locking nut once set. Put it all back together. :)

you need a tool that is like a rod which is threaded on one end and has a flat head on the other.they come in different length it goes through the rotor shaft and screwed into engine shaft using a screwdriver then you have to tap the end of rotor shaft with a desired thread pitch and use a bolt to drive into rod .

This generator will run an a/c unit up to 13500 btus and is good for 2800 watts. This is a small generator, the nameplate rating numbers need to jive before overloading the energy supply.

you probably have either a bad capacitor or more likely a short stator winding due to previous overloading

If the generator is an auto stop/start type for standby use, it would seem those solenoids are the reason why fuel isn't getting through. It would be a fairly sensible method of stopping the engine remotely. An auto start/stop generator would need a battery for starting purposes, a battery that would presumably also provide current to energise those solenoids and allow fuel to flow. I suggest you refer to the instruction manual in the first instance...

you may have a faulty actuator that governs it for you need to check if coil of actuator is excited with power when you draw current

will it blow any circuit? if so, the a/c has an electric problem. will the a/c run when plugged into a service power supply?

Check if there any alarm on monitor by pressing button several times. It has code like E-number. Replace spark plug, fuel filter. Clean carburator, spark arrester. Check wiring of thermosensor.

Was it ever electrically overloaded?

from your description and what you do , the problem is in the auto control unit it will be in the system to reduce the rpm to idle when there is no load ( auto mains on off controller switching between genset and mains supply) by turning the auto operation off you are committing the gen set to full rpms regardless of the power requirement you have the option of having it fixed at an gen set repair shop or leaving it off and starting the genset only when you have a mains power outage check with an electrician to ensure that it is possible to run it that way as if the mains power unit is not correct , when you start it and you still have mains power , it will destroy the gen set

Disconnect the auto choke assembly and hook up some sort of mechanism to manually open and/or close the choke. Spring load the choke so that the default position is fully open.

Hi there. The tips are generic and may or may not apply! 1)Does it have points with capacitor? It can be burnt or dirty.2) Check the cable feeding the sparkplug loose or cracked? 3) Remove the wires to your kill switch at the engine and try to start if it starts then with your ohm meter check switch working and wires for breaks or short circuits

Alfred, Try checking the float 1st. Much like it is done in this video (different generator but same princible.): :)

Flooding carb perhaps or maybe lots of short duration runs that never allowed it to become thoroughly hot.

http://www.generatorguru.com/help-me-fix-my-generator-repair-advice If you run the test on this page it will tell you what is going wrong. :)

most likely a governor problem check for broken governor control spring on the arm/lever

Honda Shop Manuals and Service Support Materials Honda Power Equipment You can purchase a service manual with information from this site.

Hi there. 1) Remove all loads and start up.2) Connect a known working load and if it trips on a load too small then the tripswitch is faulty and must be replaced

is this a car or a generator. we are talking about? if its a generator then goto this link might help you out. https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=Repair+manual+Honda+EU10i

Dear Sir/Madam, To dismantle the Alternator: End Plate and Windings: 1. Remove the End cover and note (or better take a picture) of the wiring layout. 2. Undo the engine mounts from the frame and raise the alternator with a block of wood so the mounting studs are free. 3. Undo all wiring and remove the brushes. 4. Undo the 4 outer bolts holding the alternator together. 5. Using a second piece of wood and a hammer, hit the inside of the outer casing where the 4 bolts were attached. Hit opposites (a bit like on a car fitting a car tyre) until the end casing comes free. DO NOT SPRAY OIL DURING THIS PROCESS AS MAY HARM THE ALTERNATOR WHEN NEXT FIRED UP. The windings should also drop off during this process, slide off and place carefully in a safe place. To Remove the Rotor: Only do this if you require the Rotor off the Generator! Due to the design the rotor gets tightened onto the crankshaft with the turning of the engine, so they can get stuck pretty solid! There are a few ways to remove the Rotor (Armature). Below we have found a video that will assist you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2OUolBIgkE If that doesn't work, try this method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsNJLd7j0Yk