Hayward Pool & Spa - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

http://pyrate.org

Are you sure it has a centrifugal switch? Capacitor start/ capacitor run have been the standard for a good number of years.

Hayward's website has manuals for all their products.

H100ID fan was stuck. Manually turned fan until it worked loose and sprayed silicone lubricant dielectric lubricant on spindle. Once free turning, it fired right up. We didn't use it all last summer so it probably just got frozen from bugs and such. If it doesn't turn, entire system wont fire.

The 24v is called the secondary and sometimes called the out-put. Make sure you have 240v on the primary, sometimes referred to as the in-put. If you have primary voltage then you should have secondary voltage, if not then replace transformer. Make sure the secondary, 24v control fuse is the correct size and present. If the secondary is shorting together or to ground somewhere, it will cause damage to the transformer.

Call a qualified electrician. More information would be needed to accurately trouble shoot your issue. Do you have automation connected to your heater? Is the heater trying to fire when the pump is off or is it ONLY the fan? Try disconnecting your Water Pressure switch on the heater and see if the issue stops. With WP switch disconnected the heater should not work and the fan should stay off. Replace WP switch and see what happens. Call a QUALIFIED electrician.

Underneath the back cap on motor

Check for proper supply voltage and that the impeller moves freely. If these are good then likely a bad capacitor.

the prologic control unit will not offer programming for what you seek. the most detailed timers will offer weekday or weekend for each pump speed. you may want to get a remote system so you can control functions from your smartphone

i always start a new filter in backwash mode. that way, any dust will be washed away and not into the swimming pool

from what i can find, it will take 350lbs of sand. there should be a chart on the actual filter housing

no description of issue. good luck

try filling your hose by holding it in front of the return jet. once filled, hook the hose up as normal

put the housing on the base (level) and make sure the three 'locators' on the bottom of filter housing are resting inside the base ring. put the standpipe into the housing and install the 8 laterals. make sure the standpipe is straight and centred in the housing (i use duct tape to block the top of the standpipe and secure the standpipe to the housing. fill the housing roughly halfway with water. slowly pour sand into the housing making sure to keep the standpipe centred. once you have installed the correct amount of sand, install the dial valve and secure it with the supplied clamping system.

pool manuals are available on amazon

make sure your filter is clean. put it on bypass if possible to see if that is where the restriction is. it is also possible that some debris has found its way into the impeller and reducing the pump efficiency. unplug the pump and put your finger into the wet end of the pump (remove basket first). if you can feel leaves or twigs, then you will have to open the pump and clean the impeller

there are several causes of a bD code on hayward heaters. because of this, i have included the link to the code page so you can eliminate and review them. https://hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/poolscanada/pdf/manuals/universal-h-series-owners-manual.pdf?fromCDN=true

there is no error code 60 in the world of hayward. is there any chance you are seeing bO? if so, that stands for bypass on and the heater is being controlled by a remote controller.

it almost sounds like the temperature sensor is in the wrong place. that or the flow is inadequate for the heater to run. if you have a sand filter, put it on 'whirlpool' or 'recirculate' and try to run the heater.

this is a common issue. there is a componant on the circuit board called a voltage limiter. when there are power surges (by hydro company or by using a timer), this capacitor takes the surge to protect the circuit board. in your case, the limiter has blown. you can either replace the circuit board or find someone to remove the limiter and solder in a new one. (its the round black disc to the right of the front display toward the top) in most cases, you will see a hairline crack in the casing or it may have exploded completely. i usually tap it with a screw driver to show customers the damage. FYI: i usually replace about 50 a year and never had one fail