Hayward Garden - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

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The motor is likely failing. It may be a small part such as the capacitor or the starting switch, but could also be more severe such as the winding itself. You will also want to examine the shaft where it passes thru the pump and motor and look for signs of rust from a pump seal leak.

If you are not familiar with testing these parts your best bet would be a local electric motor repair shop to see if the motor can be repaired or if it would need to be replaced. They should also be able to ensure there is no pump damage.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

You don't BW this filter per se. Their is a drain valve at the bottom of the filter, with the pump off open this valve and open the air bleed then work the bump handle up and down to loosten the DE in the filter. Then turn the pump on and off (2-3 seconds) once or twice let drain and your done. Close your valve and recharge.

These valves will get stiff with time and grit and sand will get into the shaft of the valve and make it hard to turn. As far as the noise, the valve is probally an 1 1/2" valve. The volocity of the water through the valve will cause cavation and this noise. When you get to the point where you need a new valve you can fix this by using a 2" valve.

12 GPM will be plenty

Scott

capacitor maybe hard to tell must be check but the cheaper option will the capacitor check for loose wires

It may not be clean enough or maybe, if you have had it for awhile, you should replace it. Just MHO...Lee

Did you put the slip ring in with the wide end out? This slides foreward when the pump runs and seals the presure side of the impeller from the suction side. If this is not right it can create a lot of cavation noise. I don't know how long this has been a problem but if you just put this in a 3hp pump is a lot and will need a 3" suction on most runs and at least 2.5" on the presure side depending on the run. I hope this helps.

If the motor still runs at all start the pump with the lock off and it will pop out. If not use some liquid soap and a small straw like a capalery tube on wd. Any thing small enough to fit through the space you can get when you pull the seal plate back, their is an inner plate with an "O" ring and you need to get the soap to that then let it sit for half hour or so and go back to the side to side prying when the soap and the "O" ring come together it will slide right out.

Sounds like you may have a bad spider gasket in your multiport valve or possibly a weak spring. Do you ever notice water coming out of the backwash while your system is set to filter? Another possibility is your screen on the air relief tube inside the filter is not in place, this will allow debris back into the pool but not alot, most if it would get filtered. Also, make sure your multiport valve is installed correctly and is set to the proper mode. There is a recirculate mode that will allow everything to bypass the filter. The label may even be incorrect.

Check you baskets or if you have a sand filter you may need new sand.

The pump is rated to produce (x) amount of GPM. (gallons per minute) If your wondering about the pressure the pump will produce, It depends on a lot of variables, like at what point in the system output you measure and how far from the pump (friction loss). The pump name plate should show some data, start there. Go online and get the data for that specific pump. Check with Mfg of pump. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

More than likley it is a starting capacitor in the back of the motor. With the breaker off remove the back of the motor and remove the clamp on the capacitor use a rag or wear gloves as the capacitor may have leaked. If it smells burnt or is leaking it is probally bad and needs to be replaced, Replace it with an exact duplacate. If this dosen't fix the problem then it is probally a winding problem and you will need to replace the motor but the capicator at twenty to fourty dollars is worth a try first.

Alge will quit often go through filter so first you need to kill the alge by super chlornateing the pool. You can take a water sampel to your pool store and give them the size of your pool, they can test your water, for nothing in most cases and recomend what you will need for this. Then you can start cleaning the mess up as the dead alge will turn to dirt. This dirt will be very fine and may go through your filter also so a cup full of D.E. in your skimmer after backwashing will usually coat the top of your sand and catch much finer dust and dirt. Do this as you clean the pool and backwash 1-2 times daily till clean. Follow all directions given to you at store to kill the alge first, this is very importiant.

First remove seal plate and mounting plate on motor. The front end bell of the motor is alunimun and is probally corroded, you will need to scrape most of this corrosition off the front of motor and then wire brush this clean. A coat of paint will not hurt at this point or coat or coat in a good pool lubricant to stop corrosion in the future. This calcium will build to the point of warpin seal plate and tweaking impeller shaft and it will quite often crack the seal also. As far as reassembly hand tighten only. If the pump has the motor it came with you have to shut the power off at the breaker and carefully use a 3/8 open end wrench to hold the back of the motir shaft. If the motor has been replaced you will need to check with the manifctuer.

filter and clean at back wash once a month

If you notice bubbles in the water returning into the pool from the eyeball/discharge, or water in the strainer basket is visibly swirling (bubbles visible) odds are you need you replace the o-ring on the lid of the strainer basket in the front of the pump. This basket may also be clogged with debris, which also effect pressure. Could also be a cracked or warped strainer lid. Should be easy to see when you remove to check o-ring. Once you remove the strainer o-ring make sure you lube it with a good silcone based lube.

Cut and paste this link into your search bar

http://www.haywardnet.com/inground/products/manuals.cfm#FiltersSand

Select your filter and you can view/ download the PDF version of the manual.

Your question was posted under "Pond and Water Garden Pumps", but I assume you are really asking about a swimming pool filter. Unscrew the control valve from the valve body and check the condition of the O-ring. If it is nicked, torn, or worn allowing water to flow past the valve, buy a replacement at your local hardware store or swimming pool supply. Pop the old one off, and put the new one in the track where the old one was. If it doesn't want to stretch to fit, put the new seal in HOT water for a few minutes and try again. Lubricating the O-ring with some Vaseline or other brand petroleum jelly will make operating the valve easier and cut down on wear of the new seal.

An Owner's Manual is available for download at www.haywardpool.com Very good step-by-step of when to use which setting.

it really depends on your climate, pool usage, and the dirtiness of your water overall.
If you look at the substrate in your filter and it looks pretty bad replace it.
I would say if you haven't replaced it yet and, it's your 4th season, it is probably a good idea to do so. You can find the diatemous sand at Lowes, or other home improvement stores for less than at some pool supply stores. And, it is easy to replace it. So, if it helps your water stay clear and clean, and is easy and fairly inexpensive to do, then its a no brainer.
As a rule we replace ours at 3 years and it has worked for us with good luck over 10 years of pool use. If i lived in a warmer climate, say Ga or FL i'd probably bump it up to every 2 years.