GE Freezers - Page 3 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

There should be a drain pan that is deposited into, however some will crack or be moved out of place causing this.

Your drain line is probably plugged and causing the overflow during defrosting of the evaporator. It needs to be purged at the least or even cleaned thoroughly by removing the rear panel in the freezer to gain access.

I believe it is the=>WR55X11084 Main Control Board There is not much there other than the overload and start relay that if they malfunction it will be a possible to overload the electronic components on the WR55X11084 Main Control Board so I would begin by replacing the main board first. If you notice problems with the compressor starting then replace the start components, Thanks John Tripp John Tripp Appliance 911

Tube may be a ice maker supply line. You can replace it at any home depote

Check the door switch is being closed when the door closes. The door may have dropped just enough to allow the switch not to be activated by the edge of the door.

What does the timer power? If it's a heater that defrosts the coil, check that.

Try going further than defrost and draining the hose. There is gunk that builds up and you need to clean that out. Use a pipe cleaner(the fuzzy wires used mostly for art projects. They actually can clean pipes and water lines!!) Also, you can pick up a pack of pellets used for breaking down the "gunk" build up.

If all is running, suspect 1 no gas, or 2 compressor not pumping. Is there any heat from the condensing area?

First off if the compressor is running then you need to clean the condenser. If the compressor is hot and not running. The. Compressor is shot and needs to be replaced.

Check for blocked condenser coils. or a stalled condenser fan motor. This could be your problem. Also check if you have ice build up in the freezer back panel. if so, you have a defrost problem and this could be a defrost timer,heater or defrost thermostat. The worst case it could be an inefficient compressor.

Hello Mary; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician. You are locked in the defrost mode. About every 8-10 hours your freezer will go into a defrost mode for 20-30 minutes. This is where all of the components will shut down except for the light. You have water on the floor because your condenser fan and compressor is shut down. You did not provide a model number. Your model number is on the inside wall of your freezer near the top. So, I can only guess. Lets take your freezer out of the defrost mode. In the lower back on the left hand side is your defrost timer (This may also be in the lower front depending on the model). Following is a picture of what a defrost timer looks like. The time is mounted on the back of a plate and held on with two screws. The plate has a hole through it to give you access to the round knob on the left. The knob has a slot in it. With a flat head screw driver turn the knob clockwise. You will hear a click. Turn one click at a time until the freezer turns on. The timer cost about $20.00. You can replace it yourself. Unplug the freezer. Unscrew the timer. Remove the connector on the right. You need to replace the timer or you will have icing problems. Send me your model number and I will tell you what the part number is.

Obviously, the compressor is not running. Confirm the presence of power to the compressor itself. If it is getting power and unit does not run, you have an open motor winding OR if you have a start capacitor the latter could be defective. Let's hope that you have the capacitor because they go bad and are a lot cheaper to replace than the compressor!

Check the fuse and connections.

The fuse is usually found on the power circuit board.

Check lights connection with thermostat for correct connection. if there is a short or arching then you will keep replacing these bulbs.

Is the motor running. Check if it has enough refrigerant gas. If the freezer runs normally for a long time and switches off, then replace the thermostat.

Check your manual but you settings could be to cold for it to run in energy saver mode so it keeps catching up then slacking off.

Go to appliancepartspros.com They have everything. If you do not like the price you now have the part number and can check that out on ebay for an even better deal.

You say refrigerator SIDE not cold? You would expect the outside panels of a refrigerator to be around room temperature or warmer as the fridge removes heat from inside the cabinet and expels it outside. If you mean the inside of the fridge is not cold then check the door seals are sealing correctly around the door frame. You could also check that there is nothing inside the fridge protruding and therefore inhibiting the closure of the door correctly.

Ach, digital controls! It sounds like the logic board/panel is on the fritz. No cure unless you can identify the malfunctioning component and replace it.