GE Dryers - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
Dryer Timer doesn't move in Easy Care Mode
do you have heat?does it stay hot while in coll down?if so your heating element is grounded,open the door,look up and remove the two screws holding the top panel in place,pick top panel up just a little and move it to the left that should remove the top panel, put it on cool down or no heat and run it,if the heat stays on this is your problem the element is sagging and touching the metal cover around the element,the way the timer works is on timed dry it counts down like a clock until it turns off when on more or less or auto same thing the dryer starts,the heat comes on and when it hits temp. the heat shuts off when the heat is off the timer will advance to off when the heat starts again the timer stops,if the element isn't grounded then you still could have a bad element there are two elements in your dryer if one is broke the timer won't advance or some have only one element so if the timer doesn't advance you probably have no heat or a bad cycling thermostat or a bad sensor up front where the lint filter is.you'll have to check them with a meter.first thing to check is the heater located behind the drum.
1/18/2018 10:28:47 PM •
on Jan 18, 2018
I have a GE Model
if that beeps on it's own and lights come on most likely when this happens it's the computer board,i've seen them start up just sitting there it will beep and then turn on.
GE DSXH43EAWW dryer stopped working mid cycle
unplug it,take it apart and check it out,you could have snapped the belt,there's a belt switch so if the belt breaks the dryer won't start,or if you haven't taken the dryer apart and cleaned it out and also the vent line you could have popped one of the t-stats,only way to tell is by checking them with a meter.the dyer should be cleaned out once a year ,if not the air can't move freely and one of the t-stats will pop as a safety,the dryer will run to hot and take out the thermal fuse or the high limit t-stat,if it's been taking longer to dry the clothes or if you see lint stuck to the bottom of the dryer door these are signs of bad air movement and the dryer and vent line needs to be cleaned out.
My ge dryer didn't fully dry load and then won't turn on
If you replaced the high limit thermostat on the righ side of the element housing, then you have a venting problem . Check the flapper valve on the outside of the house and the venting behind the dryer. REPLACE THETHERMOSTAT it's a safety device, if the dryer catches fire you will have NO insurance.
12/28/2017 1:04:50 AM •
on Dec 28, 2017
Dryer does not stop automatically
When the timer indicates that the cycle is complete, carefully open the dryer door; if the dryer stops operating it is more than likely a timer malfunction. Hopefully you have never rotated the timer dial counterclockwise as this will damage the mechanism. Hope this helps!
12/26/2017 5:47:12 PM •
on Dec 26, 2017
Hello, I have a GE
you have to check the thermostats with a meter and there's a belt switch in there also,if the belt snaps the dryer won't run but sometimes the switch fails,sometimes if that switch fails if you hold the start button in the dryer will run until you let the button out.if the dryer hasn't been taken apart and cleaned out most likely you popped the thermal fuse but you have to check all the t-stats with a meter for continuity
12/22/2017 2:35:59 AM •
on Dec 22, 2017
My partner has changed the thermostats on the tumble dryer Hotpoint V3D00 and it's still not working.I want to confirm he has correctly wired! there are orange and blue wires, which attaches to th
you shouldn't just start replacing parts,most of the time you'll be changing out good parts and wasting money and time,buy a multi meter,unplug the dryer,say you want to read out a t-stat,remove at least one of the wires,set the meter to say 20k ohms,you'll see a 1 on the screen,touch the leads together and you'll see anything else but 1,now put one lead on one side of part where wires connect and the other lead on the other side,if you see 1 the part is bad or open,if you see anything else but 1 the part is good or closed,it's that simple,you could change all the t-stats and element and still have a problem,you get 240 volts to heater from timer or board 120 volts and then the other 120 volts comes from the motor so you have to check all the parts with meter,also if you write in again that number isn't a model number,open the door to the dryer,look around the opening where you put the parts in and you'll see a tag with model and serial numbers,the usual suspects are the thermal fuse on the blower wheel housing or on the top of the heater element if it's behind the drum or the t-stats on the heater box.don't keep buying parts and hoping you get it read it with a meter.good luck with your dryer
12/16/2017 11:50:25 PM •
on Dec 16, 2017
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