Gardner Bender Electrical Supplies - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

could be picking up a signal that is telling it to open from somewhere else. seems the button just supplies power to it from the way you explained it

120VAC/3A is the rating of the switch. You are probably installing the switch to control a 120 volt device. 3A is the amperage capacity of the switch, which is not much. If you are replacing a wall switch that controls lights, I would recommend replacing it with a standard toggle switch. They are rated for 15 and 20 amps. Those button switches are meant to be used to control single devices.

The wire that comes from the power source (the "hot" one) goes to one terminal screw, and the wire that goes out to the switched device goes to the other screw.

I think this is what you are looking for.

As with any single pole switch, there are two wires, or else two screw terminals. One is for the wire (or wires) that is always "hot", and the other is for the wire that goes out to the light fixture.

Need more info. Model of boat? Try getting wiring diagram online? How did the switches function when they were working -- did each switch do the same thing, i.e. turn the same lights either off or on? In any case, you DON'T want to willy-nilly try running a new power lead without knowing exactly what's going on, else you may massively fry wiring, other accessories, switches, etc, or even start a fire. No getting around that you need to track (using a multimeter set to read 12 DC volts) from the power source (battery/alternator), along whatever wire(s) you think might be going to those switches (color coding of wires may provide clues), and determine where the break occurs. 99% of the time that will be at a connection, rather than in the wire itself. Do you have power at your controls/gauges? Check crimp connections especially, if you have any -- they can eventually die in marine environments. My guess is that finding and fixing one or more bad connections will get you lighted again. Use marine-grade replacement electrical parts from WestMarine/BoatUS/Defender/etc., rather than Home Depot parts.

to get the pressure up you have to step down the dia of hose or look for leaks or obstrutions in the hose sounds like pump is going bad length rise in hose pump is working slower maybe something to look at new pump

When this happened to me, I discovered a small stone stuck in the end of the hose.. Never did figure out how I got a stone in my hose...

http://www.gardnerbender.com/

I can help... but cannot see your drawing.Let's get started:1) By code, the microwave? should be on dedicated circuit2) You have 4 cables that enter the box. 3) Only 1 cable will be Hot and Neutral from breaker box. You must identify this cable first.Here is drawing:http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Pantry-door-switch-1000.jpg If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

if u had skype i would try to walk u thru it if possible

Hi Chris,According to page 31 of the brochure, the switch accepts up to a #18 gauge wire ans is suitable for a 6 amp load at 125 volts or a 3 amp load at 250 volts. I recommend use of a solid conductor for this switch - but you could use a stranded wire type with similar results if you "tin" (solder) the wires first. I would not recommend the use of stranded wires with this switch. If you attempt to push a larger wire into the terminal opening, you could damage the spring metal contacts - rendering them inoperable. The National Electrical Code limits the smallest sized wires installed in buildings to a #14 gauge wire. This is two sizes greater than the 18 gauge wire allowed by this switch. For this reason, the switch is designed to interconnect fixture wires only - not for use between the home wiring and the fixture wires.If you need to connect a switch between the home wiring and the fixture, you should use a switch that has wire leads on it already, or install a short length of the smaller 18 gauge wire with an insulation rated for at least the voltage of the circuit (thermostat, doorbell, network, telephone wire is NOT acceptable) into the switch, and use a wirenut to connect the home wiring to the 18 gauge wires.I hope this helps & good luck!

Replacing 4-wire 3-way pull-chain switch is usually not that simple, since old and new switches might not be compatible and should be tested first using multimeter or continuity tester.

Open following link for step-by-step testing to see if old and new switches are compatible:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#3-speed

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Open following link for illustration and instructions:
As a general rule, the new 3-speed switch has to have same number of wires (either 3 or 4).
The new switch and old switch have to match electrically, which means the old and new switches have to be tested with a continuity tester or multimeter (both testers available at local hardware).
Testing is necessary because wire colors do not always match and because each pull chain can activate different wire or combination of wires.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#3-speed

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The instructon for the GB Instruments Wire Tracker GET-4110 can be obtain from this webpage.
Clink on link:


http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/90502.pdf

Hi,
Here is how I would hook that up...
L-white
1- black
2- blue
3- red

heatman101

There are 2 type switches. First type will have spring loaded connectors that hold wire into each hole. To remove these, press on slot on bottom of switch with a little screwdriver & pull wire out. Repeat for each wire. Each wire on switch has a number. Just push wire in replacement switch with corresponding number & it will click in & stay in. The other type switch will have little wire nuts attached to each individual wire within 6 inches of switch. Untwist each wire & reattach to new switch.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
You wire it up in series... Usually you cut the black wire and install the switch wires between the cut wires. All the switch does is open 1/2 of the circuit. (one leg) If your power wire is not black then find the power wire attach one side of the wire to incoming power and attach the other side of the switch to the load / light / fan / what ever.

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Kelly
(Electrician since 1960's)

Hello rob. I prefer to install this on the same side as the hinges. Joe

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It doesn't matter. The switch is just a normally "on" switch so it just breaks and activates the power to the light.
I generally, just for my personal way, I look for a thin stripe on the wiring, ro a small bead along the casing and us that as a reference, but in that switch, it makes on difference. I used the thin line as "negative" for myself but just for reference.