Gardner Bender Electrical Supplies - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


could be picking up a signal that is telling it to open from somewhere else. seems the button just supplies power to it from the way you explained it

Gardner Bender... | Answered on Jul 06, 2017


120VAC/3A is the rating of the switch. You are probably installing the switch to control a 120 volt device. 3A is the amperage capacity of the switch, which is not much. If you are replacing a wall switch that controls lights, I would recommend replacing it with a standard toggle switch. They are rated for 15 and 20 amps. Those button switches are meant to be used to control single devices.

Gardner Bender... | Answered on Feb 04, 2015


The wire that comes from the power source (the "hot" one) goes to one terminal screw, and the wire that goes out to the switched device goes to the other screw.

Gardner Bender... | Answered on Feb 04, 2015


I think this is what you are looking for.
18715285-jyqg4x3bc2c4u1musorlznyb-2-0.png

Gardner Bender... | Answered on Feb 04, 2015


As with any single pole switch, there are two wires, or else two screw terminals. One is for the wire (or wires) that is always "hot", and the other is for the wire that goes out to the light fixture.

Gardner Bender... | Answered on Feb 04, 2015


Need more info. Model of boat? Try getting wiring diagram online? How did the switches function when they were working -- did each switch do the same thing, i.e. turn the same lights either off or on? In any case, you DON'T want to willy-nilly try running a new power lead without knowing exactly what's going on, else you may massively fry wiring, other accessories, switches, etc, or even start a fire. No getting around that you need to track (using a multimeter set to read 12 DC volts) from the power source (battery/alternator), along whatever wire(s) you think might be going to those switches (color coding of wires may provide clues), and determine where the break occurs. 99% of the time that will be at a connection, rather than in the wire itself. Do you have power at your controls/gauges? Check crimp connections especially, if you have any -- they can eventually die in marine environments. My guess is that finding and fixing one or more bad connections will get you lighted again. Use marine-grade replacement electrical parts from WestMarine/BoatUS/Defender/etc., rather than Home Depot parts.

Gardner Bender... | Answered on Aug 08, 2014


When this happened to me, I discovered a small stone stuck in the end of the hose.. Never did figure out how I got a stone in my hose...

Gardner Bender... | Answered on Jun 16, 2014


to get the pressure up you have to step down the dia of hose or look for leaks or obstrutions in the hose sounds like pump is going bad length rise in hose pump is working slower maybe something to look at new pump

Gardner Bender... | Answered on Jun 06, 2014


You can use a switch in both jams, just wire them in parallel. For example, if your light outlet box contains the supply (hot) cable, you would run a cable from _each_ door switch to that same box. The hot would then be connected to the line side of both switches (pick a wire from each switch), and the load side (the remaining 2 wires) of both switches would be connected to the light. That way either switch will operate the light, and the light will shut off as long as both doors are closed.

Gardner Bender... | Answered on Mar 13, 2014


I can help... but cannot see your drawing.

Let's get started:
1) By code, the microwave? should be on dedicated circuit
2) You have 4 cables that enter the box.
3) Only 1 cable will be Hot and Neutral from breaker box. You must identify this cable first.
Here is drawing:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Pantry-door-switch-1000.jpg

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Gardner Bender... | Answered on Apr 07, 2013


if u had skype i would try to walk u thru it if possible

Gardner Bender... | Answered on Nov 13, 2012

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