Frost Refrigerators - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors, ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

ur defrost terminator is bad and is not going into defrost cycle? and this will stop the fan from circulating the cold air. the heat is only suppose to last up to 20-30 minutes then back into defrost mode? if the defrost timer is bad heres a trick u can use that may get u back into defrost mode, locate the defrost timer in ur fridge usually at top center. then under the timer u will see a tiny slot or hole. if u stick a small screw driver into that hole and turn slowly clockwise till u hear it click? i, it will now go into defrost and u should hear the fan and the compressor go off , hope this helps let me knoiw if u have any more questions, lastly I suspect its not ur timer but ur defrost terminator> meaning is will not allow it to go into heat defrost. its easy and relatively inexpensive.

you will have to jack and brace on each side of doors at each door .in most cases an auto floor jack will do and cinder blocks or bricks to shem up .

Hi, I am sorry I don't under stand the problem with the unit you have, please explain. Thanks I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

First point of investigation, is to check the door seal. Sometimes new seals get stuck-suction and when opened and shut possibly cause a small tear, lubricate very gently with Vaseline, this will enable the seal to firstly seal properly and secondly not put undue pressure due to suction on new door seals. If that does not resolve it then have a technician check the thermostat.

most of the time when you get frost its from a air leak ck the flapper were the ice goes threw the door

About 6 inches. It never gets that cold there. Pacific Ocean influence.

check defrost timer and defrost terminator as well as all thermistors

It could be the freezer is over-stocked and air cannot circulate but often it signals an excess of water vapour is getting into the freezer from overuse or a faulty or misaligned door seal or from unwise use of the freezer. Frost build up in one part of a freezer could also mean a part of the insulation is failing.

check ur damper vent? However not sure ur question? as when u open the freezer door it should normally hinder or stop proper flow to the fridge as it all works on the concept of pressure? and air circulation?

You did not post the make and model but it is extremely rare to have a modern refrigerator/freezer that is not.

This means that the defrost cycle is not running. IT could be a bad defrost timer or the coil that defrosts the unit is burned out.

Indicates a bad defrost timer or defrost terminator, can check both with a multi meter

You might have a leek in it.

A proper diagnosis must be performed on this unit to determine the sequence of operation. So far, you have verified that it doesn't operate correctly. Parts have been changed, so it is now impossible to troubleshoot the unit from an armchair. Time to either grab some test equipment and a manual and start diagnosing or to call in a tech who can figure out what went wrong.

Sounds like a short in the defrost cycle. Could be leaky door gasket also. If evap coil is frozen over only half way then you have a sealed system problem.

Sometimes there is a little spacer at the hinge to guide the door. I would make sure the door is squared up properly to the inside so that the space of the seal is consistent with the non frosting side. Don't forget, that top hinge can be adjusted to angle the door for even spacing. You can even put a spacer on the bottom to raise the door if necessary. Later, remember the door should close slowly on its own.

This is almost always an air leak, requiring a new gasket/seal. Close a dollar bill in the door and pull it out. Keep going and I suspect that you will find loose fitting around the top corner that you describe...

problem see related to main board or compressor