Frost Refrigerators - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


USUALLY AT THE BACK BOTTOM OF FRIDGE OR IN THE FRONT AT BOTTOM. U MAY HAVE TO SNAP OFF THE COVER TO GET TO IT

Frost Inglis... | Answered on Jan 04, 2017


Kenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling...


Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o


God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
Kenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling... Freezer Frost Repair Refrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM


Frost... | Answered on Jan 04, 2017


Freezer Frost Repair


Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o


God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
Refrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM Freezer Frost Repair Kenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling...


Frost... | Answered on Jan 04, 2017


that would be a question for the manufacturer thru their website .

Frost... | Answered on Jan 04, 2017


I am going to guess 3 inches.

Frost... | Answered on Dec 09, 2016


Sometime u get bad parts new in the box. Have u tested each part. Put defrost sensor in freezer if the open/close when the get cold they are good, note most switch somewhere around 27f after u have confirmed the switches are good. Remove sensor (defrost) and relocate to another spot on the coil , maybe one of the end loops that freeze first. Also u didn't mention the psi. If it's low the unit will freeze. Hope that helps

Frost... | Answered on Dec 02, 2016


Heat Pumps and Refrigerators are the same unit running backwards. To get refrigeration you create heat, to get heat, you create frost. The end blower is the thing that either gives you heat or cold air depending on what setting you are choosing.

To stop the frost building up, you just need to cover that area with insulation. The frost is caused by a cold surface that is below freezing point and water vapour in the ambient air.

Frost... | Answered on Nov 19, 2016


I suspect that the humming noise is from a compressor motor that has liquid on top of the pistons and is in hydraulic lock
Why -- possibly adding liquid refrigerant and not gas
adding gas into the wrong side of the compressor
blocked high pressure line from the repair
time to call a technician in to help diagnose the problem

Frost... | Answered on Nov 07, 2016


varies, with 30 inches being the frost line depth in the southern part of the state and 60 inches in the north.

Frost... | Answered on Oct 29, 2016


short cycling can be from low on freon or compressor over heating

Frost... | Answered on Oct 12, 2016

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