Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Question edited for clarity. Please always include full make and model. Question moved to Fisher and Paykel category. Whereas many companies have a serial number look up, or a code in the serial number, Fiaher and Paykel don't. you would have ot contact them direct. https://www.google.com/search?q=fisher+and+paykel+mw512+serial+number+lookup ..

Maybe you can look at the basic manual that gives you when you buy it, but if not, you can look a technical experts to check it if it has a problem... but I recommend you to not screw it, but look if there is a lock on the outside or if it is in inside, don't do anything but try to look again in you tube ( if you don't want a technical expert)

Either the bearings are dry and need lubricating with copper ease grease or the motor winding is open circuit and needs replacing.

Check if there is power getting to it and there is water supply. If there is both, replace the solenoid valve.

That means the drain pump is taking too much current and it could be caused because it is jammed with food debris or is worn out.

unplug for 5 minutes https://www.manualslib.com/manual/697170/Fisher-And-Paykel-Smartdrive.html?page=28&term=Motor+Control+Module+Reset+Error&selected=1#manual ..

Check the wall power outlet to be certain it has correct voltage (need a meter) then, assuming there is power to the washing machine, check that power is going to the control module - you can follow the wires from the power cord over the where they connect to the module. If proper power is supplied to the module there is almost certainly either a bad module (replace) or perhaps the fuse on the module has blown. We have replaced the fuses (most are 6.3 amperes) but they are a special type and hard to find; also they are soldered onto the module board.

This is tricky because it may be the motor control board or the motor. I have seen some of those boards and the soldering is terrible, Could be a bad solder joint, most appliances now days are not component level serviced. The whole board is just swapped out.

It would help if you gave the model number. If it is a normal washsmart top load washing machine it should be simple as selecting the cold setting on panel. It only has cold warm or hot as the 3 selections. If selecting cold does not just put cold water in and you are sure that the hoses are on the correct way, then there must be a fault with the machine. In that case phone the shop you bought it from and get it fixed under warranty. Make absolutely sure the hoses are correct first or you will get charged for the repair.

More info needed. What is the model number? Is it a top or front load machine? What is the error code displayed when it beeps? If it is a top load machine then while it is beeping take note of which lights are on and which are off along the top row of 8 lights. Count from left to right and note the number of the lights that are on.

Hello, Keith - I suggest you contact Fisher and Paykel Customer Care and ask your question directly. I have no idea the country where your washer was manufactured. Therefore, following are the links for country of manufacture: USA: https://www.fisherpaykel.com/us/ Choose "Help & Support" Canada: https://www.fisherpaykel.com/ca/ Choose "Help & Support" New Zealand: https://www.fisherpaykel.com/nz.html Choose "Support" Australia: https://www.fisherpaykel.com/au.html Choose "Support" Fixya receives questions from people worldwide. I am answering from the USA. Best wishes.

you may have tripped the board circuit, have you tried to reset it? read ur manual and it should show you how to reset it or try unplugging it for few minutes and plug back in.. WASHER WILL NOT START: Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (orreplace the fuse) if necessary. Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one,the switch MAY BE BADand will need to be replaced.Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch.. If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start. Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself. Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly. Push start switchmay need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on. The start switchon some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings. By the way my advice is freecuzGod is good! All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced Lastly CONTROL BOARD If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures. https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Washing-Machine-Repair-Help http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Washer/Will-Not-Start/

WASHER WILL NOT RINSE: If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle. This is because when you selected your water temperature, you may have selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing. The item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test. Another test u can do to check the water inlet valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed. . If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. TIMER If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing. Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

if its a top loader then a faulty motor controller.(computer main board )

What appliance is it?

that is a sizing problem ,if neither board has been replaced recently,then faulty board

what reason do you have to remove the whole top, or did you mean the lid ?

That means that power is being applied to the drain pump when it shouldn't be. There is only one reason for that, a fault in the main control board. You will have to replace the main board.

Hi, you should beable to put a thin knife into the slot on the little door flap at the front on the right side and gently pull the door flap down, then unscrew the plug and the water will drain out, put a larg try underneath to catch the water, best to undo the plug enougth so that when the tray is full you can tighten the plug why you empty the tray, all the best.