Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Error code 136 motor stall. Can be caused by several things. 1. Faulty wiring or copper stator in motor. Check with ohm meter. You haven't said what model so I can't tell you what your ohms should be. 2. Faulty RPS (rotor position sender) That little circuit board on top of the stator. You need a special RPS test meter to check it. 3. Drum seizing up. Try spinning the steel bowl by hand, it should be very easy to rotate and no loud bearing noise. 4. Faulty main control board. Don't worry about the cracks in the stator. Nearly every machine I work on has cracks. It doesn't affect performance.

Fisher and... • Answered on Jan 10, 2019


possible board fault if rps has already been replaced,also check lid switch isnt faulty

Fisher and... • Answered on Jan 03, 2019


I think they have a section with all error codes on their website https://producthelp.fisherpaykel.com/nz/Troubleshooting/Fault_Codes Good luck.

Fisher and... • Answered on Dec 25, 2018


Hi just read your posting.Error code 43 is called OUT OF BALANCE SWITCH ERROR.This means either your switch is faulty or your your control module is faulty.95 % of the time it is your switch which is located under the control module which is under the top panel.If you want I can guide you step by step in the replacement of this switch.Please reply on how you would like to proceed and I will help you as much as I can.Looking forward to your reply.

Fisher and... • Answered on Dec 12, 2018


I also got Error Code 37 at the end of a wash with the machine full of suds. I used the other information listed under this problem to establish that the pump was blocked, (no amount of hand-turning loosened the fan). After unplugging the machine from the wall, I removed the pump easily by unplugging the power and earth from the pump, pressed in a clip on the side of the pump to allow the whole pump to rotate and then pull out, (a bayonet type fitting). From where the pump came out from was a small piece of cloth and other gunk! I refitted the pump and reconnected the power and earth. The machine is now working happily again.

Fisher and... • Answered on Dec 02, 2018


check drain pump is not blocked or faulty

Fisher and... • Answered on Nov 29, 2018


Your Error code is 130 130. (10000010) Phase 1 to 6 Single Rotor Position Sensor Error The Motor Controller has found an error in the pattern received from the Rotor Position Sensor. Likely causes of this fault are a bad connection on the harness between the Rotor Position Sensor and the Motor Controller, or a faulty Rotor Position Sensor. Primary Source: Wiring. Action: 1) Check for corrosion on the edge connector of the Rotor Position Sensor and the Motor Controller module connector. 2) Check the contacts on the rotor positional sensor end of the hall harness to see if any have been damaged. (Each set of contacts in the socket has two wipers. If the distance between these wipers varies between different contacts, replace the rotor positional sensor harness). Secondary Source: Rotor Position Sensor. Action: Check the Rotor Position Sensor with an R.P.S. tester. Replace if faulty. Tertiary Source: Motor Controller module. Action: Replace Motor Controller module.

Fisher and... • Answered on Nov 14, 2018


Check your lid switch. Take a PLASTIC Knife while lid is open and settings are on wash cycle...Stick it in the lid hole then see if washer turns on ..It might be cracked..That wound be the reason some time it works... Sometimes it don't...

Fisher and... • Answered on Nov 09, 2018


Not enough details. What is the model number and how did you come up with error code 34. That code only applies to a very old model ( over 20 yrs old) While it is beeping do not press ant buttons and write down which lights are on along the top row. Count from the left and tell us which number lights are on and which are off.

Fisher and... • Answered on Nov 02, 2018


I own and have repaired my smart drive washer. The water pump is very simple to remove on these machines. Unplug the machine and drain as much water from it as possible. There's a small plastic locking tab on one side of the pump. Gently pry it away from the body of the pump and twist the housing until it comes free from the metal pump housing anchor plate. Unplug the pump from it's connection and remove it. Found a guide that should help you - How to Drain Washing Machine That Won Empty Cares Appliances

Fisher and... • Answered on Oct 12, 2018


Check drain pump for operation or obstructions

Fisher and... • Answered on Oct 08, 2018


When was the last time it was serviced? Sounds like a faulty temperature sensor. Get it serviced, good clean out and sensor checked. Replace sensor if faulty.

Fisher and... • Answered on Sep 15, 2018


Most common problem with these machines are the CPU and drain pump. I would change both

Fisher and... • Answered on Sep 09, 2018


Hi blow down the hose that the waste water comes out of, it may be blocked

Fisher and... • Answered on Sep 06, 2018


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again. Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks. If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads. You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle. If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps. If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker. Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker. The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips. To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty. If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet. If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets. Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.

Fisher and... • Answered on Sep 03, 2018

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