Fridge/freezer freezing up-and no fanor air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.?
AT TIMES The fan usually stops workingAND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELLdue to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check thedefrost timer,The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator.Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engageurdefrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providingurterminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Placeurmeter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Takeurmeter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Nowur1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u knowurtimer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is theheating elementitself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check thecold control thermostatwith a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEMand THERMISTORSAt times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being putout. In most models around 1300( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
The control panel is held up by two hidden screws (that are not removed) that slide into slots of the top front of the panel and 2 removable Philips screws at the back of the control panel which hold up both the controls and circulation fan.
Unplug the unit. Open the door, remove both chrome screws in the ceiling behind the control panel and put them where you can reach them. While holding up the fan assembly, slide the control panel forward. It may bind a bit so work it forward carefully to prevent scratching the black finish. As you pull it forward the fan will want to drop down, so once the control panel has moved forward enough to clear the fan panel (about 1/2") you can insert the screws and finger tighten them to hold up the fan as you remove the panel.
Label the wires before unplugging as they are not all individually keyed and look very similar. Note any unused connectors. You need to unplug the large black power connector, black wire for fan connector, and a white temperature sensor wire(s) before removing the panel. You can leave connected the white wires for lights, display and local humidistat that are part of the panel until the panel is removed.
The power supply board and display board are mounted to the control panel assembly with screws and connected by a ribbon cable and wires. Label any remaining connectors and wires before removing the circuit cards. I think the ribbon cable is only removable on the display board and permanently attached to the power supply board. There are replacement parts available from WineEnthusiast.com as well as 3rd party Eurocave circuit card repair services you can find on the internet.
When reassembling follow the opposite order and note the fan panel mounts ABOVE the control panel on the ceiling of the unit. Gently slide the control panel into backwards into place lining up the slots onto the fixed 2 screws while holding up the fan panel and then install the 2 screws behind it to hold both in place.