Electrolux Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

The sounder/speaker is part of the control board which cost nearly $300. How good are you with a soldering iron? Most people want to stop them beeping. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f05Y_rTQVg0 https://www.google.com/search?q=washing+machine+beeper ..

I am guessing it runs on rollers on a rail like a filing cabinet. See if it has dropped off. A quick search shows the normal issue is not staying shut. https://www.google.com/search?q=electrolux+pedestal+EPWD157STT+jammed ..

NO. The insides are baked on powder coat. If you paint it, you might as well throw it away. The paint can catch fire, even after it is dry.

compressor wont shut off till temp reached in unit it will take awhile because you have defrosted and it takes time for freezer to reach temp

Hello,

Does the microwave heat? if it heats, read further but if it doesn't heat, please let me know.

Investigate these three areas if your microwave makes a buzzing/humming sound and doesn't heat.

Power Diode

A diode is an electronic component that readily passes current in one direction only and blocks the flow of current in the opposing direction. If your microwave's diode has become defective, your microwave will not heat and you will hear a buzzing noise. Test the diode to determine if this is the cause of your problem. Replace it if it is defective.

Testing a diode

NOTE: Before you test your diode, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you discharge the microwave's capacitor.

Whether it is shorted or open, a defective diode will most likely show some sign of defect. Defective diodes will usually emit an electrical burning smell, signifying its defectiveness. Also, it may have split in two, or it may exhibit a burned crack, or possibly even a blistered spot.

A shorted diode is indicated by a loud humming noise from the high voltage transformer, and no heat produced when a cook cycle is initiated. Whereas little or no heat produced in your microwave, with an absence of a humming noise is indicative of an open diode. In either case, the diode has to be replaced.

With your microwave unplugged, and your capacitor discharged, use extreme caution to remove the lead that leads to the capacitor. You can leave the ground connection attached. The side of the diode that goes to the ground is usually marked with a dot, stripe, or arrow. Set your ohmmeter to R x 10,000 or higher. Touch the positive meter probe to the anode and the negative meter probe to the cathode to measure the resistance across the diode terminals. Remember that the cathode is on the side that goes to the ground, which is often marked by a dot, stripe, or an arrow.

A normal diode, that is a non-defective diode, will read anywhere from 50,000 to 200,000 ohms. Differences in microwave make and model account for this large range in resistance readings.

Reverse the meter probes and measure resistance while touching the positive probe to the cathode and the negative probe to the anode. Reversing the probes like this should result in a reading of infinity. Unless a bleeder resistor is present. The presence of a bleeder resistor would produce a reading of the value of the resistor.

High Voltage Capacitor

A capacitor is an electrical device which stores electricity. A defective capacitor may be why your microwave is not heating but you are hearing a buzzing or humming noise. The capacitor will have to be tested to determine if this is the cause of your problem. A defective capacitor will have to be replaced before your microwave will work again. Make sure you discharge the capacitor before you test it, though.

Magnetron

A defective magnetron is the third possible cause of why your microwave is not heating, but you can hear a buzzing noise. Test your microwave's magnetron. Replace it if it is defective.

Testing a magnetron

NOTE: Before you test this component, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you have discharged the capacitor.

There are two tests to conduct in order to determine whether or not a magnetron has become defective. If you receive results other than what are detailed below, you will have to replace your microwave's magnetron. Each test is described for you here:

TEST 1: Locate your magnetron and label each of the wires attached to it so that you know which wires are to be replaced where. Set your ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale. Take a resistance measurement between each of the magnetron's terminals by touching each probe to one terminal each. Reverse the probes and take a second resistance measurement. Each measurement should read less than one ohm.

TEST 2: Set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal. Touch the other probe to the metal magnetron housing. Take special caution to not touch the two probes together. This could result in an inaccurate reading. This test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit.

Read the tips on the below links on how to replace your microwave oven's diode and how to discharge the capacitor.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r7088355-replace_microwave_ovens_diode

http://www.fixya.com/support/r7088317-discharge_microwave_ovens_capacitor

I hope the above is helpful.

Yes, I would think you have a broken spring that is not holding the front of the drum up. Basically the drum should float flat and level with the springs and a gas strut or two.

Hello Gentlemen; My name is Peter; I am a retired field service refrigeration technician. The two of you are on the right track. The board that you replaced; Substitution: 5303918498 The electronic control board controls the major electro-mechanical components in the refrigerator. When the electronic control board senses the compressor needs to run to cool the refrigerator, it sends voltage to the compressor and fans. It then receives input from temperature sensors to monitor the temperatures inside the refrigerator and freezer sections. This is a substitution and can not communicate with your existing electrical control board. You need tor replace this board was well: Substitution: 241973711 Cost: $83.00 The electronic control board 241973711 controls the major electro-mechanical components in the refrigerator. When the electronic control board senses the compressor needs to run to cool the refrigerator, it sends voltage to the compressor and fans. When you plugged in your old board and got power, that is because the two boards were communicating. When you change the board be careful to ground yourself by touching something that is bare metal. Static electricity will knock out a board. The Electrolux Frigidaire Refrigerator is a good unit. It should last you 20-30 years. If you want a unit that is in constant repair, buy either a Samsung or LG. They have the highest failure and repair cost of all of the manufacturers.

Sure, Disconnect the two wires going directly to the motor. Then apply line voltage directly to the motor terminals. If motor does not turn it is defective - check the brushes for wear or bad contact. If motor runs then the electronics are bogus.

That is a professional Combi oven like a Rational, and it is GAS! You can't work on it yourself. Call for professional service. https://www.maran-pro.com/en/electrolux/cook-chill/air-o-steam-touchline/gas/267712/ Page 8 of Service Manual

Air-O-Speed OVEN - Service Manual -

https://www.cpsohio.com > manual_download PDF Switch off the oven to exit from advanced programming. Fig.11. Fig.12. Page 6. Electrolux Professional S.p.A.. Ovens Platform ... .. ..

Thank you for your post, Sandra Gee!

Based off the information you have provided an "E21" error code is displaying on your Electrolux range. Typically, an "E21" stands for a communication failure between the EOC (Electronic Oven Control) and the ESEC (Electronic Surface Element Control). I would suggest performing a reset on your range and you can do that by disconnecting the power from it for ten minutes. The best way to disconnect power is to flip the household circuit breaker. If you continue to have an issue with an "E21" error code I would have a professional technician perform a diagnosis on your range to help repair it properly. Hope this is helpful. -Matt

I appreciate your inquiry, Bill Payer!

I understand that your Electrolux range is displaying error codes "E21" and "E39" and you are waiting for a part to become available to change. Based off the error codes "E21" stands for key sensor for cook place two which means a potential issue with the left board. "E39" stands for incorrect configuration. To configure your cooktop you would need to press and hold the "Warm" key, then press right front "Power" key until it beeps. Then press left front key and the configuration should start. If that does not help your situation I would suggest having a professional out for proper diagnosis. This will help to avoid any unnecessary part purchases. Best of luck! -Matt

check hose for clog

Press and hold the start button for 5 seconds.

Try somewhere like this https://www.centralvacuumdirect.com/Electrolux-Model-1590-s/2944.htm or here https://www.centralvacuumonline.com/products/electrolux/ ..

Possible faulty control board. Leave unplugged until you need to use it or have it serviced.

switch off the device and switch on again. ensure the battery for the remote is okay and try again

DEFECTIVE DOOR SWITCH

Does it stop and open up by itself when it over heats? It sounds like you did everything you could. The over heat sensor is too sensitive and may need replaced. I had one like that. The bag lid would pop open when the vacuum cleaner is hot.

Here apparently https://www.google.com/search?q=+Electrolux+cleaner+wax ..

The best Rim edge protectors you can get from Wheel Bands just take a look on them you will like them for sure because I have used them.