Electrical Supplies - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

1) If busbar looks good it probably is good.
Usually when bus is bad, it has burned appearance, and looks like it is ready to crumble or is crumbling.

2) Problem with bad busbar, we sometimes add subpanel next to main box.
Buy subpanel box Home center or electric supply.
Square-D subpanel shown on following page came from electric supply.

3) You can also add tandem breaker to main box.
Tandem breaker fits over one bus finger, but is actually two separate breakers.
Then double-up two lightly used circuits so you have room to move breakers around.
See image showing tandem.

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Electric General... | Answered on Feb 17, 2011

Check the small "button" that gets depressed when the door closes. Perhaps it's stuck IN, which is the OFF position. If it doesn't "pop out" when the door opens, then it won't turn on. Tug on it if it's stuck, you can use pliers and work it in and out a few times, then hit it with WD 40 or similar lube to help it free up.
There's only one wire to the back of this switch, so if you have to replace it, it's really easy, It unscrews from the door frame. Just a heads-up though, if that wire falls off, it can be a pain to fish back out of the body to reconnect!

Electric Door... | Answered on Feb 08, 2011

Please check the currents draws and check your breaker size. If your furnace always trip off, check the system for malfunction. Normally manufacturer install the breaker with specific standard to protect your furnace from damaged

Electric Circuit... | Answered on Feb 05, 2011

You should be able to, just make sure the dimmer you purchase is labeled as a "3-way" dimmer, and not "single-pole only."

Electric 6003V-K... | Answered on Jan 24, 2011

It sounds like you have broken a pinion tooth. Remove the screw from the end housings and open to inspect the drive gears. Parts can be purchased from Superwinch for these or off e-Bay.

Electric... | Answered on Jan 24, 2011

There should be a disconnect or switch at the furnace, otherwise you'll have to go to the Main circuit breaker or fuse panel and hope the circuits are identified correctly and turn OFF the circuit breaker or unscrew the fuse. If the panel isn't labeled, just turn OFF the single pole breakers until the furnace turns OFF.

Electric Circuit... | Answered on Jan 22, 2011

inside the furnace door might be a push pull nobb try push or try pull [ auto- on ]

Electric Circuit... | Answered on Jan 18, 2011

Check the draft inducer air switch ( vacuum diaphragm switch) If the switch is opening when the burner starts, you might have a blockage on air piping coming into the furnace. Also prime the condensate trap on the condensate drain from the combustion fan. Also check the gas pressure, if your gas pressure is dropping, the gas pressure switch will shut it down. If it's too high the moment it comes on could raise the pressure in the furnace dropping out the combustion fan proving switch.

Electric Circuit... | Answered on Nov 22, 2010


I would get an amp metetr on it and see what the load is.... if it is running continually at over 40 amp. then you are overloading it...and need to shed some load...

If it is not then the breaker is going bad and needs to be replaced...


Electric General... | Answered on Nov 16, 2010

Take your voltmeter and verify your voltage at the switch. If it is 11.5 or better, try reversing the motor. Reverse direction requires less ampreage to run and should work fine, then try forward or wind.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matt_8dbc24bf722649ac

Electric... | Answered on Nov 04, 2010

Are you sure you have correct number? Here is a link to an online cataloghttp://www.fujielectric.com/fecoa/pdf/mccb_pdf/USEH605a.pdf

The ones in this catalog are UL listed. If your number is correct, it may be an import that is in fact not UL listed. Contact Fugi direct to clarify.http: //www.fujielectric.com

Electric Fuji ... | Answered on Oct 02, 2010

There must be a short in this circuit. First determine what devices are connected to the circuit that is not working. Unplug any device plugged into the non working outlets. Try again. If unit still trips, Try to start at the logical beginning of the circuit to see if you can begin disconnecting until circuit is clear. It could be a bad switch, light, or receptacle. What does the circuit control?

Electric... | Answered on Sep 24, 2010

I am wiring a Superwinch 4500 to my Yamaha Rhino.
Problem the two red wires go to the key switch.
Do they just splice into the 12 wire ?

Electric... | Answered on Sep 21, 2010

It is a clear case of metal contacts getting heated/melted/burn out due to overload/short-circuit inside. Please get the circuit breakers replaced with a new one to avoid fire hazard.

Electric... | Answered on Jul 31, 2010

You can do it by a UPS like system, but do you think, that you will pay less for it.
Your generator produces power and uses fuel proportional to the output power.
The efficiency of the generator at half or low load is less, than on full, but that of the UPS and the battery is much much less than this.

Electric... | Answered on Jul 21, 2010

That kiln requires a 30 amp circuit, minimum. 24 amps x 125%= 30 amps per National Electric Code (NEC).

Without more info, I'll need to make a few assumptions. For the sake of estimating the cost I'll present the following scenario:

1...The distance from your electric panel to the pergola is approximately 100 feet.

2...The circuit will be underground. I'll assume that you will be able to hire someone to dig an 18 inch deep trench from the electric panel to the pergoda for $10 hr. While this should only take 3 or 4 hrs, depending on soil conditions, it could take all day. So I'll assume $80 for this.

3...This will be a 240 volt, 30 amp circuit (see why below).

4...Since you posted under the Intermatic T171, and since that is a 120 volt timer, that the kiln is 120 volts.

5...Unless the pergoda is fully enclosed, NEC still requires a weatherproof installation.

For starters, I don't recommend a 120 volt kiln. Most people I've known who had a kiln always seemed to want a bigger one ;-) Again, I'll do the estimate for a 240 volt, 30 amp kiln, as the price difference compared to a 120 volt circuit is about the same.

Also, I strongly recommend using 3/4 inch PVC conduit as opposed to 1/2 inch PVC or UF (direct burial) cable. 3/4 inch conduit doesn't cost much more than 1/2 conduit and will allow you to install wire up to #6. UF cable, in my opinion, is out of the question because if you ever decide that you want a larger kiln the direct buried UF cable is _not_ easily replaceable. A conduit and wire installation is about the same price as UF anyway.

Here's the breakdown (US dollars):

$ 10 - 30 amp, 2-pole circuit breaker
120 - 300 feet of #10 THWN COPPER wire (40 cents a foot)
20 - 1 bundle (100 feet) 3/4 inch PVC conduit
10 - 3/4 inch PVC elbows, fittings, straps
20 - Weatherproof box and weatherproof cover
+15 - 30 amp receptacle
+100 - 2 hrs labor @ $50 hr. (possibly 3 hrs.)
+80 - labor for trench
+140 - Intermatic T172R (weatherproof) 240 volt timer

Other considerations are that, if indeed, the circuit is 100 feet, you should consider using a #8 THWN COPPER wire to account for voltage drop (add $60, @ 60 cents a foot) Using a #10 wire at that distance may not allow the kiln to get to the desired temperature.

If you are anticipating things like lights, 120 volt receptacles, fans and such, the best way to do all that is to install a subpanel at the pergoda.

That should get you in the ball park as far as price. Of course, you can make adjustments accordingly. Remember that prices can vary greatly depending upon geographic location. Also, if you call a contractor for an estimate, _after_ they give you the price, _then_ ask how much they will knock off if you dig the trench.

A contractor price of $600 would not be unreasonable.

Hope this helps.

Electric... | Answered on Jun 02, 2010

The problem is that you need to understand that the red and black wires may not be power and return. The main red line is broken at a point and a new cable run to the light ( red + black) or (blue+ brown) this is merely the switch circuit fore that light. So if you mistake the two points it may be that what you have is red+red to your globe. ( Is that clear?) you would need to find the common black + the red to take power to the Red+black to your new ceiling rose, but breaking the now new red wire somewhere and joining in a new red_+ black that goes down to the switch

Use a power checking device as sometimes in some roses where multiple circuitsw feed fom Black and Black can be live
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Electric Door... | Answered on May 29, 2010

I believe you need to get 3-way dimmer set (control and remote) to be able to dim light from two locations.
Hope that helps.

Electric... | Answered on Mar 13, 2010

The pressure relief valve will be to low, or your load will be to heavy.
Kind regards Marcel van ****

Electric Power... | Answered on Feb 10, 2010

most likely yes.. sensors are inexpensive, although not so easy to change on a water heater. It is easiest to take the whole assembly burner and all out and change it on the bench.

Electric Circuit... | Answered on Jan 04, 2010

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