Dean Kitchen Appliances - Others - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

This could be useful for you. https://airfryerreviews.org/common-air-fryer-problems/

The bimetallic sensor that shuts the gas off if the pilot light blows out is malfunctioning,you need to have it serviced. There is a thin piece of metal that sends an electrical signal to the main burner valve when it heats up enough,if the flame is extinguished the gas shuts off so the room doesn't fill with gas and explode

Hello! You did not include the model number in your question. With the model number I can look it up and tell a great deal about the appliance without actually physically seeing it. You will need a multimeter to determine if the thermopile is good but before running any voltage test you should make sure the thermopile isn't charred and dirty on its surface. If so you can clean it up with sandpaper first, then check to see if the pilot stays lit. Also the pilot flame should be appropriate in size and should be a clean blue flame and the flame should be making good contact with the thermopile. The pilot will need to be cleaned if the flame is not right. Some gas appliances have both a thermopile and a thermo coupler.. At the main gas valve there will be some terminal screws with wires connected. You will be probing the two screw terminals "TH TP" and "TP". The multimeter should be set for DC voltage. Now before testing you will need to light the pilot and keep it on for a few minutes. Then with the gas turned back off check for millivolt readings at the two terminals. in the absence of the flame you should be reading 325 millivolts or more. If your reading is much less than that then your thermopile is defective. With the flame going the voltage should read near 125 millivolts or more. If the pilot won't stay lit and there is not a thermo couple but the thermopile passes the meter test then the problem is going to be in the gas valve. On occasion I have resurected the gas valve by giving it a sharp blow with a wrench. Sometimes the valve can develop debri in the form of a small granule of dust or corrosion and a swift blow is all that was needed to clear the valve and regain operability. But if that doesn't work don't beat the valve up! You can buy a rebuild kit or just buy a new valve.

notify the seller

Thermocouple may need replacing

Clean pilot so it had a strong blue flame try changing the thermocouple see if that works .

No.

Hi there. Verify if the gas pressure fed to the fryer is correct. Check also for errors/ loose wire connections on gas valve, thermostat and hi limit, last possible cause, the thermopile is weak and cannot give enough power to energize pilot and main valve at the same time. Regards.

Hi there!Reset button of hi-limit switch will only pop-out when its sensing bulb sensed temperature higher tha 450F (trip temperature of hi-limit). Theramostat may be bad allowing oil to reach temp above 450F causing hi-limit to trip-off or hi-limit itself is bad tripping-off at temperature lower than 450F.Check also the position of the sensing bulb of the hi-limit, it may be positioned touching the heat tube (for gas fryer) or heating element (for electric fryer) that's why it prematurely trips-off.Regards.

Do you have the conversion kit? Conversion kit consists burner and pilot orifice, gas valve spring and stickers and instruction manual.

basket hanger

Does the fryer have a" temperature reached light"? If so switch the fryer on and with the thermostat dial starting at its lowest setting increase the temperature setting in small increments. When the light indicates temperature reached, increase the thermostat dial temperature. Continue until maximum temperature reached.

If (starting from cold) the temerature reached light only shows when high up on the thermostats temperature scale, then unfortunately the thermostat needs replacing.

Hope this helps.

You can try putting a jumper wire between the two terminals on the thermostat after the pilot is lit to see if the valve comes on. It is less than 1 volt so don't worry. That will tell you if the problem is with the thermostat or the gas valve.
Tom

Pull whichever of the short yellow one you need, Right or Left...and pullthe red one to devert back to the pots.
Found out on my own....FOR FREE

The first thing that you need to check is the gas regulator in between the incoming gas line & the fryer. There is a plastic plug in the top, if this regulator is covered in grease then the regulator is not being vented and you will never get the burners to fire. Next is the gas valve, close to where the pilot tube comes from the valve you will find a screw about the size of a dime or smaller. WITH THE T-STAT TURNED TO THE OFF POSITION Remove that screw cap & down inside there is a plastic adjustment screw, with the unit pilot on, adjust that screw counterclockwise to the desired flame height. You won't need more than a couple of inches, now cycle the t-stat on and the burners should light. If they do not e-mail me at [email protected] & I will walk you thru it.
captrick

The thermostat is likely welded shut. You'll have to change it out.

It could be converted by a qualifed kitchen mechanic. Here is a list of parts for your unit, and supplier.

http://www.a1service.com/dean/deanburner.htm

http://www.a1service.com/dean/deanburner.htm

You need a new valve,Goto northernparts.com search for the make and model.Make sure you get a propane valve.

Is the unit propane?If so the baffles may be sooted up and need to be cleaned.This usually causes blowback.