Dacor Cooktops - Page 9 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

I know they won't convert gas water heaters but I didn't know they were afraid of stoves. See if your gas company will help. Sometimes they can drill out the orfices. Some of the older repair people still remember how to do this. The orfice for natural gas is larger as the pressure is a lot less. The gas pressure regulator will also need to be replaced. This can be done with a generic part.

Your units connections are slowly becoming comprimised. Before our unit went out completely, it went through this phase. A cleaning should fix it.

1. After the unit has cooled down, with all of the 'reminder' lights off. Turn off the main power at the fuse box. You NEVER want to work with an electrical appliance's innards with power being supplied to it.
2. Remove the unit from the countertop. Turn it over and rotate it if needed so that the power supply is not tightly pulling it. Remove the two screws holding the clamp on the power supply wiring.
3. Remove the screws holding the two different boxes together, and the screws holding the main box to the unit. Lift up the two pieces separately, careful not to yank them apart.
4. Remove the ribbon connector from the green computer board. Open the teeth on both sides of the pin and remove it.
5. Using needle-nosed pliers, squeeze on the white plastic posts holding down the upper board. Lift the corners of the board up gently, working with one at a time. Gently remove the board.
6. Look for corrosion or contaminants. Spray the entire lower board clean with compressed air. Spray the entire upper computer board clean with compressed air. Gently replace the upper board onto the 4 white plastic posts.
7. Spray the end of the ribbon connector, then replace it into the upper board. Remove the other end from the main board and spray it before replacing it.
8. Gently touch all the connections, looking for any that have loose contacts. Do not pull on any wires. Spray the entire board, and the adjacent fan, with compressed air.
9. Reassemble the protective coverings and then the power supply clamp.
10. Return cooktop to normal position in counter.
11. Restore main power at the fuse box. The unit should send a series of lights through every bulb, TWICE. If this was the solution to your problem, it is now fixed. :-)

before trying something bigger - take the thing out of the countertop & lay it upside down on a towel. Take apart the 10 or so short phillips screws around the periphery which hold the bottom cover on. Lift the cover up JUST A BIT (several connections between the halves) and you will see a ribbon connector between the circuit board that is the "touch sensor" panel under the glass and the main power switching controls. Try taking apart each end of the ribbon connection a few times and "cleaning" by going off & on the pins. The connector is very similar to that on a computer HD - just less pins. This procedure worked fine for me & brought evertything back to normal!!! Be careful putting things back together that all the high voltage wires are correctly routed and the 2 grommets inside the control box go back into place. This will all make sense when you open things up. Good LUCK! /KRK

there should be a key that you have to press and hold to unlock. find it and press till the light is gone let me know how it goes

It sounds more like the thermocouple is not registering the flame.  The thermocouple is a small tube-like device that changes resistance based on the heat of the flame.  If the thermocouple doesn't "register" the heat, then the ignitor circuit doesn't know when to shut off (it doesn't know when the gas has actually been lit, the clicking sound is the ignitor continuing to try to light the burner).  I'd look into replacing either the thermocouple itself or (unfortunately) the controller board.  I say unfortunately because I had to get mine replaced on my Thermador 36" range that cost over $250 just for the part...!  Good luck!!

when you cleaned the unit you may have gotten water in side the igniter, dry it out w/ a hair dryer. Once dry should work .

That is a bad fan bearing, rather than putting a rubber gasket I would replace the fan assy.

Enter the model number on one of two websites below to get parts and diagrams for your appliance:


Appliance Parts From PartSelect

Appliance Parts Pros

use mactches for ur gas burner if the ignition not really work.put all gas in off position b4 cleaning by using a vacium in the place of the control knob,turn off the power b4 try to clean,tnx

call a qualified technician

The burner are fixed only maintenace are to clean burner /clean holes and edge in order flow of gas good performance.At the back if you want make more good performance of your top burner clean the nozzle where the air and gas mix . Clean the nozzle w/fine niddle /sometime if will corrode with rust and dust to struck flow of gas.

there should be 2 d size batteries in the bottom ov the oven just replace them that should stop it i had the same problem

See if you can find it here.

If not, I'll upload it to this site or email it to you.

http://www.dacor.com/Customer-Care/Manuals-And-Specs.aspx?TaxonomyId=149

Ours started doing the same thing. I got it to start working again by gently holding down the up/down button until it started to move. After doing this a few times it started working normally again. Also the keypad can be locked and unlocked by pressing the low and high buttons together for 1 second.

hello Michael - I recommend that you call your propane provider. They will be able to help you.

please rate my answer. thanks

The Dacor knobs have a history of breaking easily. For that reason I recommend that you clean them in place using cotton swabs, tooth brush, etc. WHatever cleaning agent you use, put it on and let it sit for 5 minutes to loosen up any grime.

They do pull off but they often break and they are pricey to replace.

Please rate my answer.

One of 2 reasons - either you outlet is not properly grounded or there is a short in the range. This could be a shorted (bad) spark module, or one of the wires is shorted. All can be tested with a multimeter. Hope this helps!