Bryant Heating & Cooling - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

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Common HVAC/Central Air Problems

Am covering in my experience both from past home situations, and helping out my neighbors a tip on central air conditioners going. Important Note: If you are not comfortable and want to err on the side of being safe, and/or not damaging your equipment, please do contact an HVAC company who has licensed professionals. In my experience, the four top causes of a central air conditioning unit is no longer functioning at all or partially, especially over the summer when encountering extreme temperatures, will vary, but listed below is the order in which I check since candidly the easiest fix first and simplest to check are as follows: 1. Fuse tripped. This can occur either due to fluctuation of power and/or the amount of power being drawn. Best part easy to diagnose as NO power runs to the unit, and easy fix is to find the fuse box, and the right switch to move to ON vs tripped state (which usually is middle vs right to OFF position). If the fuse was literally blown, after turning it to the ON position and checking the unit is indeed still not receiving power, you may need a fuse replacement. Never been the case for me, but figured add. 2. Auto shut off switch triggered by an Air Handler in the attic The Air Handlers main function is to blow the cold air through the vents, and many have a drip pan that collects the condensation from the cooling effect and a connected drain pipe to the unit and the drip pan too. I have found that if you don't check and blow out the drain pipes from the drip pan, the drainage pipe can literally get clogged with dust/insulation/algae build up. When it is REALLY hot and REALLY humid outside, the amount of water generated by condensation effect is much higher than usual and can result in the drain pan literally filling up IF the drainage pipe is partially or fully clogged. The easiest fix for this is to use a shop vac that can blow out air, and simply attach the vacuum nozzle attachment that is closest in diameter to the drain pipe coming from the unit plus the secondary one from the drain pan. I have used duct tape to create an air tight seal in the past, and simply blow the lines out and validating outside (where the drain pipe usually runs out to) that debris is indeed cleared. If you really want to also ensure all debris is removed, a garden hose can be hooked up and secured to the drain pipe and flushed with water making sure you can control the flow closest to you, with a brass single nozzle being the easiest (plus it fits in the pipe too). I have only had to do this once for an older home that had not been used much and I found the air flow out from the drain pipe was restricted outside. Note: The use of duct tape is super handy since when hooked up to the pipe and blowing air, allows you to go outside while the shop vac is running to feel the pressure coming out the other end and of course the blast of debris removed that varies. I have also used it for flushing with the hose/brass nozzle after insterting into the pipe to ensure no backsplash happens before rotating the nozzle to the on position to allow the flow of water through the hose. 3. Capacitor going or completely gone I have dealt with this situation which usually happens after years of sustained usage. For example, on my prior 20 year old unit it had started to stop during extreme temperatures and like the above fuse situation, it would not turn on, although when tested I did see power being drawn by the unit. I used a voltmeter (set to the proper setting and most voltmeters have guides or just search online to learn which setting works best) to test the power of the line hooked into the capacitor and from the then the lines going from the capacitor to the contactor switch to validate if any major discrepancy. Keep in mind to access the capacitor you do need to remove the protective panel, and are exposing live wires. Standard procedure for me is to literally pull the main power switch (usually attached to the house above the unit), put on thick rubber gloves and remove the panel and clean out the cob webs and other debris that can accumulate since power is shut off. To test the unit, I do then put back on the main power switch, ensure gloves are on and take my time being careful to not cross the leads on the voltmeter is key when testing each connection or worse touching the top of the leads on the capacitor with bare skin which will shock you. Switching a capacitor out is a simple operation and most important thing is to ensure you order the right one to the same specs of the old capacitor being put in and paying careful attention to the wiring before and after, as there are usually have three (single capacitor) or four leads (dual capacitor) and cables connected to the capacitor leads (common, hermatic, which connects to the compressor and fan). Note: Capacitors do store residual power and can shock you if not careful as most units have 240 Volts of power. Like stressed above IF not comfortable and to err on the side of safety, call a licensed HVAC person first vs just jumping in. 4. Contactor switch going bad or shorted out Just this month, I had this situation crop up at home where my central air conditioner unit (5 year old Bryant) outside the house was making a loud clicking noise. I was able to determine that the contactor switch (which engages the fan and condenser, when cool air is requested from inside the house) was actually erratically toggling between on and off hence no cooling inside. Interestingly when I pressed the switch on the actual contactor in, both the fan and condenser immediately engaged but once I removed pressure on the switch it started to act up again and the clicking was actually the switch receiving a current, but not continuous, so it simply dis-engaged and continued to repeat the pattern. I shut off the power (master switch), put on my trusty Carhartt thick rubber gloves and carefully taking note and pictures of the wires, I removed the contactor switch. I then removed the cover on the actual contactor switch with my smallest flat head screwdriver based on the plastic notches seen on the sides. Sure enough, the contactor switch was bad due to the magnets that it uses to when engaged had worn and the sparking had burnt the switch out. I had to order a new switch and voila, problem solved. 5. Faulty Control Panel on the inside of the house I have never experienced this issue, but know a neighbor whose house had encountered several lightning strikes which fried the control panel inside. We swapped his control panel with mine, and confirmed was the culprit. Not a common issue, but if you happen to have issues on one control panel, and have multiple identical ones in the house, swapping to test with one you know is working is the easiest fix. Also when identical, you do not have to re-wire, as many these days allow you to pop out manually if they have a battery compartment for when power goes out to keep all settings saved. =============================================================== By checking the above, you usually can isolate most of the common problems unless something more serious like a bad electrical line or a serious issue on the actual AC unit and/or Air Handler itself (control panel on Unit burnt out, motor of fan burnt out, etc.). However, I did have one interesting case recently which is why I re-ordered what I would usually check to hopefully help you out. 6. Combination of problems above... I did have a very new problem on the same unit that had the replaced Contactor switch as it was acting up as if the contactor switch had gone bad (#4 above). Interestingly after examining the switch and not seeing anything visibly wrong, I checked all the wiring and then decided to check the air handler in the attic too. Interestingly I heard a similar 'clicking' noise and upon closer examination saw the drip pan was slightly filled up (since we had a heat wave with 90 degrees of humidity, hence plenty of condensation), and the Air Handler Auto-Shut off switch (reminder...that is in place to prevent spill over of the drip pan associated to a clogged drain pipe per #2 above) was actually toggling between on and off making a clicking noise as opposed to forcing the unit into the off position. What this actually had resulted in was sending an on and off signal to the unit including the contactor switch based on the wiring done. Sure enough some insulation had fallen into the drip pan restricting just enough the drain pipe to slightly fill up the drip pan. Once I addressed the clog, and to be extra cautious blew out the drain pipe line, I now plan to order a new drain pan auto-shut off switch to solve this problem since it was faulty. Keep in mind if left unchecked, it would have damaged the contactor switch or worse the unit itself if it encountered this same problem and no one was home to address. Hope these tips help, and remember if you are not comfortable and want to be safe, and/or not damaging your equipment since high voltage and shock or getting hurt is possible if not careful, recommend to contact an HVAC company who has licensed professionals. Feedback always welcome on anything I missed too!
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Is the Air conditioning unit I have the right one?

First off, do you live in a science lab…70degrees?? But, with a reliable thermometer, check the temp of the air coming out of the supply grilles. AT THE GRILLE NOT 5 feet away. Then do the same at the return. You should have anywhere from 14 to 20 degrees of temperature difference. If you don’t you likely have a refrigerant issue. Units just don’t need “gassed up”, if it does need gas you have a leak. Is the filter clean?? Furthermore, a 2 ton unit should be able to cool the space, might be pushing it a bit and 70 degrees on brutally hot day might just be too much. Hope this helps.
7/29/2021 2:50:03 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 21 views • 0 helpful votes
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Where is the filter located? Bryant hvac fa4anf024

USUALLY ON THE FRESH AIR INTAKE SIDE OF THE SYSTEM
11/25/2020 5:31:19 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 29 views • 0 helpful votes
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Need to replace a bad contactor on a Bryant 661CJ030-A I cannot find one that looks the same and I cannot identify any numbers on the bad contactor. Does anybody know what contactor I need?

This model can use a generic contactor providing it is rated for the amp load of the compressor and fan of the unit. I will link a similar contactor that you can use. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Trane-CTR2573-24V-2-Pole-Contactor-30-AMP
7/8/2020 6:15:54 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 69 views • 1 helpful votes
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Bryant thermostat systxbbuid01-a coming off the wall. If its removed from wall base to repair the screws etc, will it loose its settings?

That is a infinity system control. It has solid-state technology and has a small battery inside it to save settings in the event of a power outage or if it is taken off the wall. Removing the stat for a few minutes to troubleshoot or repair something will not wipe the settings. I would not leave it off for more than 12 hours though.
12/22/2019 9:14:04 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 163 views • 0 helpful votes
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What is the model# of a 3 ton bryant package unit and the ARI#

Somewhere on the equipment is your model #. Unless it is old and has faded off, it should have your model #. If this has happened, sometimes you can remove a panel and find it on the inside. The AHRI # as it has been called since 2007 would be dependent on this number.
9/18/2019 9:12:31 AM • Bryant Heating &... • 77 views • 0 helpful votes
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I have a Bryant Thermostat that is blank and my A/C is not working

Change the batteries
8/26/2019 2:33:00 AM • Bryant Heating &... • 108 views • 0 helpful votes
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How do you do a hard reset on a Bryant homewise thermostat

Read the manual. That's what the pros do!!
1/1/2019 6:11:17 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 263 views • 1 helpful votes
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Bryant HVAC, reads "system fault, 84 high pressure, lockout for 4)

It could be your filter is dirty or condenser is dirty.
7/16/2018 10:35:17 AM • Bryant Heating &... • 2,070 views • 0 helpful votes
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I NEED A WIRING DIAGRAM RUN CAPACITOR FOR A BRYANT MODEL 593CJX036000AAAA CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONER.....ANY HELP?

Should be on the inside of the door. If not, follow wires to fan and herm, common goes to contactor.
8/6/2018 5:24:01 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 458 views • 0 helpful votes
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Bryant AC Model: 165ANA018-B - Circuit Board: HK38EA004 has [Y.C.R.LS] my 3 wires are Green, Red, White. How to connect back again?

You need to check at the indoor unit to see how the condenser wire is wired in. Remember. just because a wire is red does not mean it goes to R. Your three connections will go to R, C & Y but no one could tell you what color goes where without looking at your inside unit. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79
5/27/2018 7:06:39 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 73 views • 0 helpful votes
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Bryant thermostat screen is blank. Can't find any batteries. Has only two wires out of the wall a red and a white one.

If it only has 2 wires, and the thermostat is digital, it has to have batteries. If you can't find them, pick up a new thermostat (heat only needed since you only have 2 wires) and replace. Red is power 24v & White is heat.
9/21/2017 1:25:49 AM • Bryant Heating &... • 1,202 views • 0 helpful votes
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Were is the flame sensor on a bryant heating unit model 394had036050 unit will run for a couple of hours and then shut down

The flame sensor is located in front of the burners and will be on the opposite end from the hot surface ignitor
12/6/2017 9:16:09 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 136 views • 0 helpful votes
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I have a Bryant gas furnace model 394GAZ036125. After a heating cycle, blower motor shuts off, then cycles 2 times for approximately 2 seconds each cycle. What could be wrong ?

It's probably something going on with the limits. If the limits open, the control board assumes the unit has overheated, and brings on the blower to cool it down. Check all limit connections. As well as the connections on the board. Limits are the least expensive so you are right in changing them first, and there should be more than 1/ see schematic. If not the limits then it may be the control board but in 15-16 yrs I've not seen that. Might try(safely), wiggling the control wires at each limit, or tapping them with the end of a plastic handle, and trying to simulate a fault. Hope this helps!
10/19/2017 1:27:24 AM • Bryant Heating &... • 288 views • 0 helpful votes
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Model numbers for Bryant AC difference between a model pa4zna048 & a rspma48

The difference is the sticker on the outside of the unit and the slightly higher price for parts on the Bryant. Go with the Rheem but don't be mad at me when it breaks down, the Bryant will too. Honestly it's luck!!! If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79
8/30/2017 4:45:23 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 139 views • 0 helpful votes
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My bryant model # 582A stop walking. The led indicator show 1 flash---Fan on/off deley modified

It lost a leg HAHAHA If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79
9/24/2017 10:36:24 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 63 views • 0 helpful votes
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2002 4 ton Bryant air conditioner shuts off, fan still runs but not cooling is problem in the controls in the attic or in the AC unit or both?

With a non heat pump it is a simple 24 volt AC control circuit. In the attic there is a relay that is actuated via the fan control wire directly from the thermostat. On the thermostat there is an auto/man switch that controls the fan. Manual the fan runs all the time. Auto fan turns on and off with the outside compressor. If the system is not calling for cool and the fan continues to run the fan relay is sticking. common problem. Sometimes after running for several days the relay will stop sticking if not, replace relay. If the system is calling for cool and the compressor stops I would still expect the fan to run until thermostat tells the A/C to off. Some compressor units include a safety switch or high-pressure cut-out switch A blocked internal valve bad control board or external fan in outside unit defective no air flow in outside unit. High pressure cut out not good, Suggest turning temp max cool and observe. If acceptable cool and the compressor runs without interruption all is good, except for the blower in the attic. Safely check relay in attic blower circuit. Hope this helps. thermostat-heat-cool-fan-on-czwsw2ci0layswcsyy3dj4dr-4-2.jpg basic-thermostat-wiring-diagram-czwsw2ci0layswcsyy3dj4dr-4-5.jpg
6/28/2017 8:03:22 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 145 views • 0 helpful votes
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Is there an extended warranty on Bryant model number 126A air conditioner installed July of 2010?

Typically these machines come with a 10 year parts warranty. Provided it was registered by the installer and you are the original owner. If you are not the original owner TYPICALLY that drops your part warranty to 5 years. Conpressor may still have 10. Extended warranties generally mean your warranty is for PARTS AND LABOR. I have seen where customers do not buy the extended warranty AT TIME OF PURCHASE but do purchase this at a later date, obviously at an increased rate. You can contact the manufacturer WITH COMPLETE MODEL AND SERIAL NUMBERS OF BOTH INDOOR AND OUTDOOR UNITS and they will be able to give you the information you need. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79
8/19/2017 2:37:40 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 39 views • 1 helpful votes
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What seer and tonnage is a Bryant condenser unit model # 561CJ048 and serial # 4598E06708?

According to the specifications here: http://dms.hvacpartners.com/docs/1009/public/01/pds561c.18.10.pdf , all Bryant 561C air conditioners are 10 SEER. The 048 model has a 4 ton nominal cooling capacity. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells
5/4/2017 10:42:12 PM • Bryant Heating &... • 367 views • 0 helpful votes
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