Toaster Ovens - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
Toaster oven door will not close completely.
This problem is caused by screws being loose or dropping off a limiting bracket on the left side of the oven behind the left outer wall. This bracket allows the front glass panel to remain OPEN, as required for broiling.
To correct this, first check to see that the two black screws facing forward, behind the left side of the front glass panel are tight. If not, tighten firmly, but be careful not to overtighten. If this fails to correct the problem, then follow this procedure.
Purchase 2- #4 x 1/2" SS Phillips Pan Head sheet metal screws at your favorite hardware store. Cost About $1
- Unplug the oven and place on a flat work surface. Place a rubber mat or towel under the oven to prevent scratching.
- Remove 2- #4 x 1/4" black phillips flat head screws on the left side of the front glass panel which screw into the black side panel. These are NOT the screws which hold the bracket, which face forward, but are adjacent to the bracket screws. Be sure to indentify the proper location of all screws for replacement.
- Remove the 4- #4 x 3/8" SS phillips pan head screws at the bottom of the left side of the oven. Pry the metal tab of the back panel slightly off the bottom of the black side panel.
- Remove the 3- #4 x 3/8" SS phillips pan head screws from the back panel which attaches to the left side black panel.
- Carefully pry the bottom of the left black side panel up from the bottom of the oven until it is parallel to the top of the oven. It will seem hard to pry it upward as you are bending two SS tabs holding the black side panel to the SS top. It will come up easily once you get it started. When it is parallel to the top, slide the black side panel to the rear to remove it from the two SS tabs.
- You should now see the limiting bracket at the front of the oven's left side. Remove the 2- black Phillips screws holding the bracket.
- Slip the limiting bracket from the oven. Place on a wood block and with a chisel (or large common screw driver) and hammer, strike the screw holes on the bracket firmly once, so as to close the screw holes slightly.
- (OPTIONAL) If available, using a rat tail file (or small flat file), at the crook of the spring lever, carefully increase the indent of the crook ever so slightly. This will allow the front glass panel to stop more definitely at the open point.
- Remount the bracket using the 2- #4 x 1/2" SS Phillips Head sheet metal screws you bought. Tighten firmly, but do not overtighten. Check the front glass panel movement. It should have a definite stop to allow the panel to stay open approximately 1/2" for broiling and should close fully, easily.
- Slide the left black side panel on to the SS tabs.
- Pry the left side black panel down until it meet the bottom plate.
- Replace the bottom screws.
- Replace the 2- #4 x 1/4" black Phillips flat head screws at the left side of the front of the front glass panel which screw into the black side panel.
- Replace the back panel screws.
Kitchenaid Toaster Oven KCO253CU No Power-On Light, No Heat
I was able to replace parts on the circuit board (P/N: 128301_timer_pcb) to fix this issue on my KCO253CU Kitchenaid Toaster Oven.
R1 was visibly burned.
On further troubleshooting, ZD2 was found to be shorted.
Known Failed Parts Replaced:
R1: 47 Ohm 2 Watt resistor
ZD2: 47V Zener Diode
Other Parts Replaced
C1: 1.5 uF 400 Volt Film Capacitor
ZD1: 5.1 V Zener Diode, tested OK but replaced anyway.
See attached photo of circuit board for component part numbers.
Tension spring on door
I found the answer (see below) posted on another web site. I followed the instructions and replaced the spring. I found, as the original poster had, that the new spring works better than the original and is much more sturdy. To the original instructions, I would add the following:
1) There are about 20 screws so have patience removing and replacing the screws.
2) Step 3, "Slide off the rear panel" requires further clarification as the panel will not slide off even with all screws removed. I had to turn the oven over, with the top of the oven sitting on the work table. I then used a screw driver to lift the two tabs that hold the back panel to the bottom panel. With the tabs lifted, the back panel will rotate away from the oven along the edge where back panel slides into the top panel. The back panel can then be slid out. I have included three photos that show this step.
3) Step 7, "Re-attach feet": Be sure to use the guides on the bottom of the oven to slide the foot assembly onto the oven. I had unsuccessfully tried to screw the feet onto the oven without using the guides.
Oringinal instructions for replacing the broken spring:
Just repaired this yesterday.
Got a spring from Lowes (Hillman Part # 543028 for about $4), it's larger than the original but seems much sturdier, original is really thin metal. Fit the space provided without problem.
Oddly, end result was a more 'giving' spring action, prefer it to original, which loved to snap shut unless door was 100% opened (ie fully 90 degree open).
This is for BOV800XL:
1. Remove all rear screws
2. Remove feet entirely
3. Slide off rear panel
4. I was not able to remove top housing - but I was able to gently pry sides open just enough to thread the new spring with a little ingenuity and effort. Watch out for sharp metal edges everywhere.
5. Slide back in (remember that top edge goes under the top edge/lip)
6. Put all screws back in
7. Re-attach feet
2/10/2022 8:26:44 PM •
on Feb 10, 2022
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