Refrigerators - Page 4 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

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If the fan is running and the lights are on but the compressor is not running, the overload relay may be arcing or overheating. The relay and overload is housed plugged into the side of the compressor in recent models. A multi-meter may be used to check the relay and overload. A start capacitor may also be attached to compressor. If the start capacitor is damaged, the compressor will not work. It must be examined for burns or arcing. If the start capacitor is damaged, it has to be replaced. If the relay, the overload, and the start capacitor are okay, then you need to have a technician perform other tests as dangerous live voltage tests are required. If the compressor itself is bad, replacement is not cheap.

First, you need to determine if the compressor is bad or rather a relay is bad.

Refrigerators | 28 views | 0 helpful votes

A freezer in good condition should cycle at a similar rate to a fridge once the cabinet has reached the temperature the thermostat is adjust to - around 25/27 degrees C.

Obviously when ambient or chilled food is placed inside the compressor will run a little longer. Once the temperature has stabilised, if the cabinet is kept closed the compressor should hardly run at all.

Over time older types of insulation can begin to fail increasing the heat loss and refrigerant also tends to leak away over time resulting in the compressor running for increasingly longer periods.

Considering your remarks, it is likely time to consider a replacement freezer...

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The blower is poor or somethin restrictd from the evaporator in the freezer area. Also u may need the compressor..or condensor testd. On an old fridge its cheaper to just buy a good used..cause parts n labor

KitchenAid... | 42 views | 0 helpful votes

Impossible to date and the company is no longer in existence as purchased by Whirlpool

Coldspot: 1928-1976 - Sears Archives > brands > coldspot
Coldspot Refrigerator 1973 Product promotional photograph. ... debuted in 1960 as the first frostless refrigerator, and 1971's model included a built-in cold-water ...

Nice images here

Refrigerators | 22 views | 0 helpful votes

If the lighting is LED, it may be designed to stay on all the time as they create little or no heat. Modern commercial fridges have LED strips, but usually a way to switch off. There may be a tiny micro-switch, or a magnetic reed switch in the door and frame. Run a rare earth magnet around the door and frame. When you find the reed switch, it may turn off. When you find the magnet, it will either force your magnet away of stick fast.

If your fridge is freezing food, then the problem is not the light. It can only be two things

The thermostat is set too cold.

The thermostat has failed and is working the compressor 24/7

Smeg... | 22 views | 0 helpful votes


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Things you'll need to check:

01 - Dispenser Control Board
The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.

02 - Dispenser Switch
The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switches is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multimeter to test each switch for continuity. If a dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.

03 - Auger Motor
The auger motor spins the auger blade and pushes the ice through the dispenser chute. If the auger motor is burned out or defective, the ice won't move forward and fall through the chute. To determine if the auger motor is defective, pull out the ice bucket and turn the bucket auger by hand. If the auger turns freely, use a multimeter to test the auger motor for continuity. If the auger motor does not have continuity, or if the motor is getting power but won't run, replace the auger motor.

04 - Dispenser Actuator
The dispenser actuator interacts with the dispenser switches, which power the auger motor and other dispenser components. If the dispenser actuator is broken, it may not activate the switches properly or at all. Inspect the dispenser actuator-if it is broken, replace it.

05 - Dispenser Door Motor
The dispenser door motor opens and closes the dispenser door to prevent cold air from escaping the freezer. If the dispenser door motor is defective, the dispenser door won't open. As a result, the dispenser will not dispense ice. To determine if the motor is defective, first determine if the motor is getting power. If the motor is getting power, but it won't run, replace it. You can use a multimeter to test the motor for continuity. If the dispenser door motor does not have continuity, replace it.

06 - Dispenser Solenoid
The dispenser solenoid opens a door flap to release the ice and then closes the door flap once the dispenser finishes dispensing ice. If the dispenser solenoid is defective, the dispenser door won't open. To determine if the dispenser door solenoid is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. In addition, check the dispenser actuator pin to ensure that it moves freely. If the dispenser door solenoid does not have continuity, or if the actuator pin does not move freely, replace the dispenser solenoid.

07 - Ice Bucket Auger
When the dispenser lever is pressed, the auger motor rotates the auger. As the auger rotates, it pushes the ice toward the dispenser door and down the chute. If the auger is defective, it won't be able to push the ice out of the dispenser. Check the auger to determine if it is broken or if it is disconnected from the auger motor. If the auger is broken, replace it.

08 - Ice Crusher Blade
If the ice crusher blades are jammed by ice, use warm water to melt the ice. If the ice crusher blades are bent or broken, replace them.

Bosch... | 19 views | 0 helpful votes

It's not unusual for a refrigerator to drip a little water on the floor after you replace the water filter-air trapped in the water dispenser system can make the water dispenser drip enough to overflow the drip tray below the dispenser. You can fix it by streaming a gallon or two of water through the dispenser to eliminate the trapped air.
If water drips on the floor from the back of the refrigerator, a leaking water inlet valve or cracked water system tubing could be the cause. A clogged or cracked defrost drain tube could also cause the leak. Defrost condensate water collects in the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator so a cracked or overflowing drain pan can also cause water to drip on the floor behind the refrigerator. Check the drain pan for cracks and clean out any foreign objects that may be inside the drain pan.
Excessive frost caused by a leaking door seal can also cause the defrost drain pan to overflow. Check the door gaskets and replace them if damaged.

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Over time, there is the possibility that minerals from the water will build-up in your system.

This is a common cause for leaking water from the taps.

To resolve this issue, you will need:
  • 1/4 cup of bleach
  • 1 or 2 empty water jug (same ones you use for the dispenser)
  • 1 bucket (preferably 6-8 liter capacity)
When you're ready to begin, turn the unit off.

Then, unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet and remove the water bottle.

Dispense water from both the hot and cold taps into the bucket in order to remove the remaining water from the reservoirs in the unit. Be careful with the hot water. Then empty the bucket.
Next, take the empty water jug and pour the bleach in and then add tap water into the empty bottle about 1/8 full. You want it just a little more than what it will take to fill the reservoir in the unit.

Now you will place that jug onto the dispenser.

Plug the the power cord back into the outlet and turn the unit on.

Allow the solution of bleach and water to fill the reservoirs. Once this solution has filled the reservoirs, wait about 15 minutes.

Then dispense the water from both the hot and cold taps into the bucket to remove all the water from the system. Again be careful with the hot water.

Next, turn the unit off again and unplug the cord and remove the jug.

Now you'll need to rinse the current bleach solution jug, or of you have another spare jug, use that instead.

Refill the jug again with hot tap water about 1/4 full as you want double the amount of water this time compared to the bleach solution. Then place the jug back onto the unit.

While keeping the machine off and unplugged, let the hot water fill the reservoir again and let it sit for about 10 minutes and then dispense all the hot water from both the hot and cold taps into your bucket. Then empty the bucket.

Now remove you can remove the jug and pull the unit away from the wall. You'll then need to place the bucket below the drain spout which should be on the back on the unit.

Remove the cap and plug from the drain spout and let the water drain out of the system. Once the water has drained, reinstall the plug and cap.

Now you can reuse the jug that you originally removed if it was still full, or you can use a brand new jug. Plug the unit back in and power it back on.

This method should have removed all the mineral deposits that was preventing the rubber inside the spout to form a proper seal.

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When you replaced the thermistor, did you check the resistance of the wiring and temperature sensor back at the control board? If the wires are damaged or the connector at the control board has corrosion, the control board won't get the correct signal information. If those are fine, then the control board is probably faulty. Sears Parts Direct has the control board here: . Other repair shops will have this part as well.

I wish that only the refrigerator temperature sensor was faulty. I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Frigidaire... | 50 views | 0 helpful votes

Try using a listening stick, screwdriver or a sonascope held in firm contact with the compressor to determine whether the compressor is running or not.

If the compressor isn't running, the next step is to check the thermostat is actually switching power to the compressor.

My fridge packed up and the thermostat was at fault. Something made me give it a clout with the handle of a screwdriver and it began working again. I ordered a replacement but so far the original has continued working.

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