Refrigerators - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


should be schematic on back panel or in by compressor

Hotpoint... | Answered on Jan 28, 2020


bad heating element to cut ice and check circulation fan in freezer

Refrigerators | Answered on Jan 28, 2020


try cleaning coils on back if same possible low on Freon replace then

Refrigerators | Answered on Jan 28, 2020


First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.

Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.

Fisher and... | Answered on Jan 27, 2020


A refrigerator ice maker that freezes up can be caused by a frozen ice maker fill tube, faulty water inlet valve, too low freezer temperature setting, or a water filter that needs replacing.
Warning! Before attempting to work on any appliance, make sure that all power (electricity) and utilities (water and gas) have been turned off and/or disconnected on the appliance. Read more
First, locate the water supply to your ice maker and turn off the water supply via the shut off valve. You may want to have a bucket and towels on hand for any extra remaining water in the water supply line.

The fill tube and water supply line supplies water to your ice maker. The fill tube can be a separate part that connects to the water supply line and it enters from the back of your freezer and into your icemaker. You may need to remove your icemaker to see this tube and to check if it is frozen.
If the fill tube is frozen, you will need to thaw it out using hot water pored over the tube using a turkey baster, or else remove this part from your refrigerator and thaw it out in the sink. You can remove this part from behind your fridge by unscrewing a few screws and detaching the water supply line. Thaw in your sink and reattach.
Some methods suggest using a hairdryer to thaw out this part. Be careful when using this method as dripping water and electricity could lead to a possible electric shock. Also, exposure to long periods of heat could damage the fill tube part.

Replace the Water Filter

If you have a refrigerator water filter, check to see if it needs replacing or consider replacing it.

Reset the Freezer Temperature

Check the temperature setting on your freezer as it might be set too low. You may want to bump it up a degree or two.

Test the Water Inlet Valve

You may want to also test the water inlet valve. The water inlet valve controls the flow of water into the ice maker and is located in the rear of the refrigerator behind the back access panel. Sometimes this part can go bad and overfill the ice cube tray when it is not needed.
The water inlet valve also has a screen filter that can become clogged with sediment and minerals from hard water over time. Remove the water inlet vale from the refrigerator and use a flat head screw driver to remove the sediment screen from the part. Clean the filter screen using soap and warm water and replace. Reassemble all parts and test your ice maker.

Refrigerators | Answered on Jan 26, 2020


Try Googling (Whirlpool)(WRBX45BS)(manual) without parens.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jan 25, 2020


The Igloo 100 series portable icemakers that are sold all over for about $100 have several minor issues. For ADD WATER light, there are 2 main ones. The water SENSOR is located at the top right of the unit. Remove the BACK cover with 6 screws on the bottom. Remove the TOP assy with 4 screws from inside the case. When the TOP is off, facing the unit from front, you see the small silver wire at the back right. Clean it AND the screw visible thru the hole in the plastic at the end of the sensor wire. The screw is the GROUND side of the sensor. This fixes many of the issues. But the SENSOR senses water FLOW, not water LEVEL. If the PUMP is not moving water, the sensor assumes you are OUT of water and turns on the ADD WATER light. The pump apparently burns out easily. Remove the PUMP wire connector from the CONTROL BOARD and check for continuity in the motor. Be sure your multimeter leads actually touch the connectors. The connection end is too small for most meters, so probe from the backside of the connector. If motor is good, check for 12vdc at the board side of the pump connector. Plug in, turn on. Should be 12vdc within 45 seconds. See, the water pump comes on first. When water is moving over the sensor, then the board will turn on the compressor and start freezing.

The other issue with not making ice is the crazy condenser coil is a PULL THROUGH. Air enters the machine through the bottom and exits the side. Should be the other way around, because the condenser coil easily stops up with lint and other debris in the air. This creates a high pressure condition for the compressor that will either shut the unit down or cook the compressor. Clean the entering air side of the coil with a brush and blow compressed air through from the fan side. to clean the inner portions of the coil.

Refrigerators | Answered on Jan 24, 2020


If you wish to get some details about refrigerator repair ; visit the site linked here. Pull up older posts.
http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/

Refrigerators | Answered on Jan 24, 2020


There is a capacitor on the rear of the display, you need to replace the capacitor or just buy a new display module.

LG Refrigerators | Answered on Jan 23, 2020


I have RS2555 in same problem.my warranty is expired and Samsung hooked me up to an technician who asked for 300.00 for labor plus parts and tax, what a rip off!!I I called my Canadian friend who's a technician and I was told to POWER OFF the RS2555 for 24 hrs.both doors MUST open and take out all drawers,he said ,it is 90% the ICE blocked the cool airflowing,so if ICE melted,all will return to normal.
It works after I did what he said.share this and hope can help some one with same problem!

I copied this suggestion from another web site. The 22e error is apparently a blockage of ice. Hope this helps.....

Samsung... | Answered on Jan 21, 2020


Could be two things

Fan has failed.
Stuck in Defrost mode.

Magic Chef... | Answered on Jan 21, 2020


The pipe on the defrost drain has come off. Pul the fridge out and look for a pipe that goes to a tray on top of the compressor.

Also look for the drain channel in the back of the fridge. Something may have blocked the hole.

Or call the dealer under warranty.

https://www.frigidaire.com/Owner-Center/Product-Support--Manuals/?productCode=FFPS4533QM

Frigidaire... | Answered on Jan 21, 2020


can't tell exactly, too many variables, your low side pressure should be about 50 - 60 lbs, ( this is merely a guide ) temperature affects this reading. a simple way to tell is add freon and watch you indoor coil if possible. when the entire coil is sweating you are full. if only partial sweat is visible add more, a little at a time, it takes several minutes for this to circulate.

Refrigerators | Answered on Jan 21, 2020

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