Food Mixers - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
My Mix3 4004 Krups hand mixer stopped working a long time ago. I replaced the capacitors...but now I don't know where to start checking
Krups produce a premium product and it would be surprising if they didn't also have a repair or exchange service. Sometimes such a service is a reasonable cost and it is advisable to at least make the enquiry before proceeding further with your home repair.
Early food mixers used a number of series resistors for speed control and the circuit was fairly straightforward to check with a multimeter and any capacitors found are likely to be radio interference suppressors.
Later mixers use an electronic speed control and the best mixers use feedback to maintain the speed and torque when mixing or beating viscous material that would otherwise slow the speed significantly.
Checking/troubleshooting the electronics are beyond the scope of home repair, however, the circuit can be checked to the speed control fairly simply and then from the speed control to the motor and the motor itself. If everything else checks out then it would be reasonable to assume the electronic speed control has failed.
Early electronic speed control used either a thyristor as the control device or a diac/triac pair mounted on a small circuit board. Later types probably use a speed control module similar in principle to those found in power drills...
3 days ago
The planetary assembly fell off
My wife has the same model and the planetary unit fell off shortly after we bought it. Since we had moved overseas to a remote pacific island, getting it fixed under warranty was out of the question.
Since the rotary unit is a pressue fit, I pressed it back into place and it worked fine for about 3 months before I had to repeat the process. After that it became a monthly ritual.
I finally decided to fix it for good. What I did was drill a 3/8" hole in the center of the nub in the middle of the inverted rotary cover plate. I then drilled a 5/16" pilot hole in the center of the grooved shaft that the rotary cover plate presses onto. I then tapped that hole with a 18 NC tap. I was careful to tap it just a little shy of the depth of the cap screw that I was going to insert into the threaded hole so that it would jam as I tightened it. I then greased all the gears with a white machine grease and pressed the roary cover plate back onto the shaft. I then put a washer on a 5/16"-18 x 1" socekt head cap screw and clamped the thing together. It hasn't come off in the last 2 years.
While I am moderately skilled in this sort of thing it wasn't a precision operation. Since I was living in a fairly remote location with no shop, I did the entire operation on the kitchen counter using a handheld electric drill. Probably the hardest part was determining how deep to tap the shaft. I did it by trial and error. You can adjust the depth by using a washer or two of varying thicknesses.
I'm really surprised how lame a design using a press fit for this assembly is. They could easily prevent the problem by using my approach or even putting a cotter pin through the shaft and reciever tube in the rotary cover plate (a small hole would be needed in the side of the tube to set the cotter pin).
From what I've seen on the internet while looking for a solution, this is a fairly pervasive problem.
We thought we were buying a high quality machine that we thought would be reliable in our remote situation. Fortuantely, other than the falling rotary cover issue, the machine has worked great.
on Jul 14, 2020
HOBART A-200 MIXER- FIRST GEAR NOT WORKING
Hi, your mixer was manufactured in 1947. Hobart does not make public their service manuals. It sounds like the diving key is not engaging first gear with the spinning shaft. This is the ticking sound you hear/feel. This could be because of a broken spring in the mechanism that moves this key in and out, or the key itself has become so worn that it will no longer engage the first gear. The unit needs to be opened up to remove all old grease and oil, including the planetary. The condition of the grease in your description of the planetary, is a good indicator of the condition of the grease in the trans. Your unit probably needs an overhaul due to it's advanced age and grease state. Unplug the unit. You can gently remove the two circular metal dust covers underneath the top cover. With a good flashlight you can view the overall quality of the grease and the level of it. In an ideal world the grease should fill the entire cavity and no oil should be visible. Replacement grease should be Shell Darina EP-2 or Chevron ALC EP-2. You'll need 4-14 OZ. tubes of either type to do the job. The Spec. # for your unit is 3943 Look for drawing # PL-985 Once the cover is off the trans., it's relatively easy to get to the diving key once you remove first gear (the large round gear on top). Remove what you need in sequence, and replace in sequence. If you have a digital camera, take lots of dissasembly pics. When you are done, test in all gears by turning the motor cooling fins with your fingers in the normal direction of the motor rotation. Do not plug the unit back in until you've tested all speeds manually. Good luck! ricardok45
on Jul 08, 2020
Kitchen aid 110v 450watt, I want to convert to 220v
The only available Kitchen Aid stand mixers on the European markets are the Kitchen Aid Classic and the Kitchen Aid Artisan.
The best way is to contact a Kitchen Aid service center / repair facility in your area.
Here is the European website of Kitchen Aid: http://www.kitchenaid.eu/eu_EU/ka/ka_europe.htm
If you bought a different Kitchen Aid Stand Mixer (like the Professional series) you probably won't find the required parts to convert it to a European model. The only way would be to use a voltage converter.
I hope this helps.
on Jun 30, 2020
K-beater is stuck on our Kenwood Chef and we can't remove it
I couldn't remove the K-Beater as when I tried to turn it the whole mechanism turned with it. I couldn't even remove the splashguard! I was going to take it to the Kenwood factory (a few miles from home) but then I thought I'd give it one more go and this is what I did...
- Next to where the K-Beater attaches in the middle of the circular plate is a lug with a pointed-shape bolt on the end. Remove this with a spanner and the beater plus gear cog can be removed.
- Place some mole grips or wide pliers on a worktop and sit the cogged gear in to it and grip so that it won't turn.
- Now you should be able to remove the K-Beater!
Perhaps someone can suggest how to stop it happening again. I haven't attached anything since but will update this post if I have any other helpful tips.
Kenwood KM400 /...
on Jun 23, 2020
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