Cutter Tools - Page 5 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

This knife is ****. To load... you have to push the slide all the way forward. Make sure the switch is set to unlock. PINCH THE BLADE WITH YOUR FINGERS AND WIGGLE IT INTO PLACE. Then you have to use every ounce of thumb power to relock the switch.

Once you are done, the blade will still come out in 9.9 / 10 times you cut something.

Some models has 2 screws on the knife case.unscrew them and you can access to the blade.

Could have the brushes stuck in their holders - sometimes you need to release them by bending a tab.
Check the motor is not stalled (by stuck bearing) - but is actually not receiving power.

Be safe.

You do not have to remove any screws. Extend the blade outward using the thumb slide on top of the knife. There is a small black pushbutton on the opposite side from the lock button. Depress the button on the side and using the other hand, grab the blade with your thumb and forefinger to pull the blade out. It may require a little wiggling. Now the new blade can be slide in and locked into place. The black pushbutton controls the locking mechanism that keeps the blade from pulling out.

At the back end of the knive (the curved end) press the black piece through the yellow rounded part and the yellow front and the black back will part, now slide the yellow part back to reviel the blade folder. Fit new blade then refit the yellow part on top of the black part and slide the yellow part foward to lock it back in.

There is a wheel on the left hand side. Typically, it won't let you LOWER it below what that wheel is set to, but that may have something to do with it.

go to Dewaltservicenet.com and type in your model number and you can download a users manual for this tool the pages you need are 10 and 11. Let me know if you need more assistance and if I have helped you would you please rate this response accordingly.

It sounds like your blade holder assy has become misaligned on the blade drive shaft. Try if you can to use a straight edge on 2 planes 90 deg apart and see if there are any gaps in either of the srtaight edges. I suspect that the blade drive holder has become slightly dislodged from the drive collar on one end allowing the blade drive to tilt on the drive shaft. I had the same thing happen on another brand named Planer and it was a matter of reseating the collar to cure the stripes. Sure took a long time to sort out. Good Luck.

U will need to check the power switch 1st, this requires testing a "HOT" circuit and you will need a volt meter and knowledge of electrical testing, if the switch tests ok then the motor is defective and will need to be replaced, this should be performed by a qualified repair center, there are adjustments that need to be done after the unit is pulled apart and the motor replaced to insure correct operation of the plainer

Operator's manual for the 22-547 is here.

It sounds like you may need to adjust the knives. Page 10 and 11 of the operator's manual discuss the details. See below: (I have removede references to the figure and diagrams in the manual - look there for pictures).

ADJUSTING KNIVES

To check and adjust the knives, proceed as follows:
1. DISCONNECT THE TOOL FROM THE POWER SOURCE.

2. Lower the head assembly by turning handle

3. Remove chip deflector

4. Carefully place knife setting gage, on the cutterhead so the rounded sections are directly over the knife as shown. When adjusted correctly, the knife should just contact the bottom of the center portion at each end of gage. Check the other knife in the same manner.

5. If an adjustment to one or both knives is necessary, slightly loosen the seven locking screws, by turning the screws CLOCKWISE into the knife locking bar just enough to relieve stress in the cutterhead and not disturb the knife setting.

6. With setting gage, in place, apply pressure to the knife being reset. Turn the seven knife locking screws, CLOCKWISE until the knife locking bar becomes loose. Lift springs will automatically raise the knife until it comes in contact with gage. Snug the knife locking bar by lightly turning the seven locking screws, COUNTERCLOCKWISE.

IMPORTANT: AT THIS TIME, ONLY TIGHTEN THE KNIFE LOCKING BAR JUST ENOUGH TO HOLD THE KNIFE IN POSITON INSIDE THE CUTTERHEAD SLOT.

7. If the other knife needs adjustment, repeat STEP 6.

8. After both knives are positioned in the cutterhead, turn each of the seven screws, COUNTERCLOCKWISE until the knife is secure in the cutterhead. NOTE: When tightening knife locking screws, tighten the end screws first, then inward toward the center of the cutterhead.

9. Replace chip deflector.

Exploded diagram is here.
Operator's manual is here.

If this answer was useful, please vote. Thanks.

If you use the wrong brand of blades, they won't let the knife shut all the way. The notch is cut slightly differently. The same is true for the Kobalt knife I just bought at Lowes. Get the Stanley blades that are right next to the knives - they are the only ones that work.

Sorry.

If you bought the Stanley blades, then I don't know what the problem is. Sorry for that too.

I was able to find the answer on another site. It is really simple when someone tells it to you. You push the blade all the way out then you can push the yellow button and it comes out.

If there is you would find it at Dewaltservicenet.com and in the middle of the page under manual type in your model number for a schematic and owners manual for the tool.

Its bit trick to fix it back once opened. I will explain.: Initially just concentrate to get one screw location on position.then try the one which is on the cross side of it and not the adjacent one.once this two get in bit alignment.put up some pressure on the top .the other two will automatically get aligned after this.also see that you dont fix a single screw completely at a time.keep on fixing them one by one a bit or they will get misaligned. hope this helps,thanks.keep updated and please rate and accept the solution.

go here to aquire your manual:

http://www.deltaportercable.com/ServiceAndSupport/OwnersManuals.aspx

Go to Dewaltservicenet.com and in the middle of the page at the bottom type in your model number on the next page click on the model on the left hand side and they when you get to the breakdown look for instructions manual, I generally have to click 2 times to open it up, after first click the box will go away just move your mouse and left click and it will come back and then click on it again. Go to page 11 of the instruction manual. If I have solved your problem would you please rate my response accordingly. Thank you

Go to Dewaltservicenet.com and type in your model number in the middle of the page at the bottom. Select the model number I looked at a type 2 and click on it on the next page find instruction manual on the left hand side and I did have to click 2 times before it brought it up but it is there I just read part of it. The manual is about 17 pages long but the page you need is 11. Let me know if there are any problems please and if I have helped in anyway would you please rate the response accordingly.

http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/dewalt/DW735_TYPE_1 I see part 126 as a gearbox, check that, and the fan too.

I use denatured alcohol to clean the rollers on my Makita, and it doesn't seem to have harmed them over the years, but I do this infrequently. If your rollers are coated with pitch and or chips they won't feed well, no matter how they're adjusted.
(I don't think this planer has the capability to adjust the spring tension on the rollers, but I could be wrong.) You can consult the manual online at http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Products/DocumentView.aspx?productid=22538&typeId=7605&documentId=21151
If you can attach dust collection to the planer it will probably help.
Also, the direction of the grain makes a difference when trying to plane boards as dense as poplar, (which has a kind of weedy, roey grain sometimes, that would prefer to tear out.)
For example, if you were feeding the board from right to left of the page, the grain on the side of the board should look like this//////// instead of this\\\\\\, which will have a tendency to tear out and jam the planer. If you can make sure the boards feed through in the right direction, this may solve your problems.
I heartily recommend the wax, as well. And possibly compressed air with a nozzle to blow chips aside.
Also consider the length of the boards and the effect of the drop weight on the planer's rollers if there is not an extension roller in place (or a worker) to hold the board as it makes its pass through the machine.
If you feed the board with the cup side down to begin with, taking light passes to smooth the top face, then flipping it over end over end and feeding the other side in the opposite direction, flattening first one face, then the other, you might have better luck.
Aside from all this, a surface planer isn't a jointer, which is designed to straighten & flatten boards, and portable planers in general won't perform as well as industrial models of the same capacity.
If you will continue to be running a lot of stock through your machine, you might want to consider investing in a used 13" Rockwell or Delta or some such cast iron planer, with rollers top and bottom to facilitate movement of course material. They aren't as portable, but might save time in the long run.
On a final note, there's no replacement for sharp knives. Even the best planer won't drive stock well when the knives get dull.
Best of luck!