Brewmatic Coffee Makers & Espresso Machines - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

First I'm not a Brewmatic tech, but I have worked on this and other similar brands. You should call your vendor for service. Especially if this equip is on loan. *** the following is for information only.*** * This brewer has a multiple timer selection as well as multi function. (it can brew in different ways and sizes.) * The batch selector determines the brew time. This is set up according to your needs and the pots you will be using. If you change pots then the machine needs to be re-calibrated to the new sized pots. * Each timer setting needs to be individually calibrated and checked. This is usually done by the tech. Some brewers can be set without taking the cover off but most are locked out by the vendor to prevent tampering. You will need the operator/tech manual to make adjustments. (check your MFR online site) * There is usually 2 tubes from the tank (top) to the brew head. The 2nd tube which usually branches off the brewing tube is a by-pass port which will trickle down between the wire basket and funnel. This is why it is important to keep the metal wire basket inside the larger metal brew funnel. Some may come with a separate by-pass solenoid but most have a needle valve. I usually set this needle valve by closing it all the way down (clock-wise) and opening it back up 3 full turn (counter-clockwise) I've found and average of 3-1/2 turns works for most 1 gallon brews. Opening it more will give you more watery brew and closing it down a stronger and sometimes bitter brew. It really depends on your grind size and brew amount. You will need to test it at least 3 - 5 full brews to find the sweet spot. But, stick with 3-1/2 turns if your not sure. * If there is a 3d tube , it usually runs to the hot water faucet which is gravity fed so it does not need a solenoid valve. * Some brands may have one more tube that has a solenoid attached which usually runs to the middle of the brewer near the top of the decanter. This is the water by-pass for Iced tea. Tea brews into the funnel the same as coffee but the funnel has a smaller drip hole. This allows the tea to steep longer in the funnel. This tea concentrate is then cooled down with the addition of cold water from this extra middle port. Most brewers with the tea option has a taller appearance to fit the tall Iced tea dispenser. * Final; the brewing spray head should fill with hot water unless the timer or brew solenoid is not working. * Short brews can also be caused by water probe or water control board problems. Check the water probe for crud or fixed too low in the tank. Low water in tank will lead to slower brewing and longer brew times. * Brews are also affected by water fill valves. Not opening or intermitent operation. Note some valves are not rated for hot water feed. If your connected to a hot water line then the inlet valve needs to be rated for hot water. * Final, check if your operators are pushing the right batch size button. Call your coffee vendor for help. ukeboy57

If it is not connected to a water line then you cannot use the hot water faucet or the start/brew button, you will have to manually brew coffee by pouring the water into the reservoir.

Remove the sprayhead and check that for blockage. Pour water into the reservoir with the sprayhead removed to see if it flows. If water flows then the problem is the sprayhead. If no water then it is the brew tube and you need a deliming spring to clear out debris. If the only time water does not get through grinds thne it is possible the grinds are too fine.

This problem could be caused by a few different things. You need to make sure you unplug the machine before removing any panels. You should first check if you have the water turned onto the machine. Then you check if you have a bad inlet solenoid you can check this by simply adding a full coffee pot of water to the machine through the plastic lid on top. If it brews you know everything else is good and that you may have a bad inlet solenoid. There is also a timer on this machine that could be bad. Only way to test this is by removing the back panel of the machine and placing the red lead of a voltmeter on one side of the solenoid and one on the chassis of the brewer which acts as a ground. Hit the brew switch and see if you are getting voltage. If not the board may be bad. Last but not least the simplest, The brew switch maybe bad. Again make sure you unplug before removing panels. You can remove the top panel and unplug the two wires to the brew switch. Put the voltmeter in continuity mode and place the leads on each side of the switch. Hit the switch and see if you have continuity (which will cause the voltmeter to beep if there is). If not you have a bad switch. Hope this helps.
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Hello

First, use a paperclip to clear the injector from which water is delivered into the K-cup. The injector looks like a short, thick injection needle in the centre of head assembly. Simply lift the lever, remove any K-cup and look at the roof of housing.

Second, decalcify the internal tank. There is an internal tank in addition to the external tank that we put water into. Put decalcifier or vinegar (undiluted) in the external tank and run 3 brew cycles. THEN, leave the machine on for FOUR hours while the decalcifier works on the internal tank. Then put fresh water in the outer tank and run cycles until clear.

THANK YOU FOR VISITING FIXYA