Popular Black Diamond Rock and Ice Climbing Repair Questions, Solutions and Tips

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Black Diamond... | 528 views | 0 helpful votes

1 Answer

How to strap the Black Diamond Neve crampon to boots

Hi Joseph,

As per the picture above.. It's normal to have a chunk of strap hanging loose at the end.. You can just tuck it away, once it doesn't interfere with the spikes it's not a problem. They just put the extra on to accomodate extra bulky gear or boots..

Black Diamond... | 305 views | 0 helpful votes

2 Answers

Should I wear a helmet when rock climbing?

I am a firm believer that helmets are a indispensable part of your climbing rack. If you are in a toppeler situation or bouldering it probably isn't super necessary because you aren't going to take the kinds of falls on your head. However, if you're doing any sort of lead climbing, I do believe that helmets are really serious.

Black Diamond... | 3,269 views | 0 helpful votes

1 Answer

What are Rappel devices (descenders) and what kinds are there?

These devices are friction brakes which are designed for descending ropes. Many belay devices can be used as descenders, but there are descenders that are not practical for belaying, since it is too difficult to feed rope through them. Figure eight Sometimes just called "eight", this device is most commonly used as a descender, but may also be used as a belay device in the absence of more appropriate equipment. It is an aluminium (or occasionally steel) "8" shaped device, but comes in several varieties. Its main advantage is efficient heat dissipation. A square eight, used in rescue applications, is better for rappelling than the traditional 8. Because of the "ears" or "wings" on the rescue 8, there is less chance of forming a girth hitch whilst rappelling very quickly. A figure eight descender Figure eights allow fast but controlled descent on a rope. They are easy to set up and are effective in dissipating the heat caused by friction but have a tendency to put a twist in the rope. Holding the brake hand off to the side twists the rope, whereas holding the brake hand straight down, parallel to the body, allows a controlled descent without twisting the rope. Because of the many bends it puts into the rope, an 8 descender can wear a rope quicker than a tube style belay/rappel device. Many sport climbers also avoid them because of the extra bulk an 8 puts on the rack. However, many ice climbers prefer to use the 8, because it is much easier to thread with stiff or frozen rope. Rescue eight A rescue eight is a variation of a figure eight, with "ears" or "wings" which prevent the rope from "locking up" or creating a girth hitch, thus stranding the rappeller on the rope. Rescue eights are frequently made of steel, rather than aluminium. Rack This consists of a 'U' shaped frame, attached to the belayer's harness, into which snap multiple bars that pivot from the other side of the frame. The rope is woven through as many of the bars as are required to provide sufficient friction. This arrangement allows for variations in rope diameter and condition, as well as controlled rate of descent.

Black Diamond... | 1,579 views | 3 helpful votes

2 Answers

One helmet gor various activities

Hi,

I see this has been here a while... But hopefully it can help. The only multisport helmet to hit the market recently is the Kong Scarab. We had a few in the shop here with mixed results.. It's rated for a bunch of sports though variously I got responses like "too heavy" "too hot" Too bulky" etc, depending on whether it was a climber, paddler, skater etc.. So I guess the answer is yes, it does exist, but it's not perfect...

Black Diamond... | 786 views | 1 helpful votes

1 Answer

Which kind of carbiners shoul I use

The best carabiner shape for any kind of static rigging is a symmetric shape - oval is the best. Most carabiners are asymmetric "D" - which is stronger but will cause the line to shift when loaded - the oval shape is better because nothing will shift to one side of the carabiner when loaded. You could use standard aluminum carabiners or even locking ovals (Petzl and Omega make very nice locking ovals), but I would also suggest using steel carabiners - they are cheaper and stronger and since weight isn't an issue they are better.

Black Diamond... | 682 views | 0 helpful votes

1 Answer

Rock Climbing Harness with Auto Belay, where to hook on?

Easiest is to hook the swivel carabiner to the belay loop. This is a sewn loop of webbing that connects the leg loops to your waist belt.

Black Diamond... | 660 views | 0 helpful votes

1 Answer

What are Belay devices?

These are mechanical friction brake devices used when belaying. They allow careful control of the belay rope. Their main purpose is to allow locking off of the rope with minimal effort. Many types of belay devices exist, and some of these may additionally be used as descenders, for controlled descent on a rope, that is, abseiling or rappeling. There are passive camming devices and active camming devices. Passive camming devices rely on the brake hand and a carabiner to lock off the rope. Sticht plates and the Air Traffic Controller ATC are examples of passive camming devices. Active camming devices have a built-in mechanism that locks off the rope without the help of any other pieces of equipment. A GriGri is an example. The offset cam in the GriGri locks off the rope automatically to catch a falling climber, much like a seatbelt in a car locks off to hold a passenger securely. The GriGri fails at around 9 kN of force. However, a GriGri, with its technology, often makes belayers become less vigilant. The GriGri is not a hands-free belay device. One mistake with the GriGri is reverse threading it. Reverse threading means to thread the GriGri the wrong way around, rendering the camming action useless. However, in a fall, with a reverse threaded GriGri, bending the rope sharply under the GriGri provides more than enough friction to hold a falling climber. An example of traditional belay is the Body Belay or the Hip Belay, where the rope is wrapped around the body to provide enough friction to catch a climber. This is often used in Alpine climbing, where the routes are easy, and the belay must be fast. Ice climbers often use a boot belay, where the rope is wrapped around one boot, thus providing friction.

Black Diamond... | 458 views | 0 helpful votes

1 Answer

What types of belays are there?

Sticht plate, ATC/Tubular Devices, Reverso, Gri-Gri, Figure eight and Self Belay Devices.

Black Diamond... | 457 views | 0 helpful votes

1 Answer

What are the best belay device for solo climbing?

If you are looking for a partner to go for Rock climbing but you cannot find a single one, you should know about Solo climbing.
There are two types of solo climbing:
1:Free-solo: this means climbing without any ropes or other protection.
2:Roped-solo, as the named suggests, ropes are used in case of a fall.
Free solo climbing is extremely dangerous than roped soloing but proper rig can make a safe way for you.
Without tying a leader into the rope, the rope is tied of at the ground, or at a belay station on a multi pitch route. Controlling the rope can be done I many ways. My favoured way is with a Petzl Grigri, but there are other similar or related devices on the market. Lets have a look on them.

Petzl Grigri+: This Game Changer is pretty Similar to the previous series Grigri 2, cam inside the device pivots when the rope is pulled through quickly, cinching the rope tight and slowing or stopping it with anti-panic function as well.

Wild Country Revo : Pretty similar to the way a seatbelt works. To lock down on the rope when the rope spins the wheel at a high number of revolutions per second. it has been known as Beginner's Best Friend.

Trango Vergo : It narrows the space for rope and stops from moving, where two plates are designed to pivot under the force. Natural Motion controlling device

Mad Rock Lifeguard : In this light and reliable device is set oncamming mechanism, which has been installed to changing the angle of the rope when a strong tug on the climber's end of the rope pulls it up.

There are many more belay device you can find out in market ,what makes me more satisfied and user's recommended. i have mentioned some of them at here.
For more Climbing tips and tricks ,you can visit this Climbing review blog, where plenty of topics and article related Rock climbing ,gears,tips and news and many more.

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Rock & Ice... | 716 views | 0 helpful votes

3 Answers

Where can I buy rock climbing shoes?

Its pretty simple to buy a rock climbing shoe from a physical shop or brand shop also you can place an order from your home on their online shop .
But before you go for a purchase make sure about the primary considerations:
Shoe type: It depends on your experience and expertise for which type of shoe you should choose for climbing .

There are There are three types of rock climbing shoe based on the shape:
1) Neutral2) Moderate3) Aggressive
Features: Before you take any decision on purchasing climbing shoe , check out features as what has been provided in it.like laces, straps,inner,outer, linings,last and rubber affect the performance of a shoe.

Size fitting: Climbing shoe need to be fit snug to hold on with full strength.
but It's a common mistake for first-timers to buy climbing shoes that are way too tight. Old-school wisdom and advice was to cram your little piggies into the smallest pair possible in an effort to help you climb better.
Hope you find it helpful and appropriate.

Rock & Ice... | 532 views | 0 helpful votes

1 Answer

What are webbing slings and what are they used for?

it's a soft lifting chain, wired rope or webbing applied to a specific load that is usually used by a crane or other lifting devices or equipments.

Rock & Ice... | 910 views | 0 helpful votes

1 Answer

Black Diamond Rock & Ice Climbing - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

The spring part has gone

How to strap the Black Diamond Neve crampon to boots

Should I wear a helmet when rock climbing?

What are Rappel devices (descenders) and what kinds are there?

One helmet gor various activities

Which kind of carbiners shoul I use

Rock Climbing Harness with Auto Belay, where to hook on?

What are Belay devices?

What types of belays are there?

What are the best belay device for solo climbing?

Where can I buy rock climbing shoes?

What are webbing slings and what are they used for?

How to light propane princess stove

Escapist 25 - Volumen S/M - Fjord Manual

Escapist 25 - Volumen S/M - Fjord Manual

Escapist 25 - Volumen S/M - Fjord Manual

Escapist 25 - Volumen S/M - Fjord Manual

Escapist 25 - Volumen S/M - Fjord Manual

Escapist 25 - Volumen S/M - Fjord Manual

Escapist 25 - Volumen S/M - Fjord Manual

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