Bernina Sewing Machines - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
Bernina 440qe service manual
Generally, service manuals are not available to the public. Only Bernina technicians have access to them unless they are sold privately.
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Bernina Aurora 440 knotting below my fabric and into bobbin area.
Are you sure you have the bobbin the right way round in the holder....when you look at the bobbin and tug the thread, the bobbin should move clockwise.
Pull out the foot pedal and use bsr2 with the start/stop button.
Bring bobbin thread to top of work before starting to sew. This may help knotting problem
Issue with Bernina Activa 130:
Check that you have got the thread correctly routed on the bobbin case and that there is noticeable 'drag' on the thread when you pull the thread out of the bobbin, in its case. If there's little or no drag, it is likely that the bobbin tension needs increasing. I'm assuming you've set the top tension to thered line. A good check is to load two colours of the same thread type top-and-bottom - when sewing on wide zig-zag, the top thread colour should be the only one seen on the top of the material and the bottom colour should be mostly seen on the bottom ... it's OK to have just a spot of the top colour showing on the underside on wide zig-zag/satin stitch.
Why won't my Bernina Activa 140 sew the blind hem stitch?
Are you absolutley sure you're not getting a problem with stitch formation on, for example, wide zig-zag. Check again, using a different colour top and bottom and make sure that the stitch is being formed properly with only the top colour on top and bottom colour on the bottom. It sounds as though the bottom loop is not being picked-up by the hook properly. Make sure you've thoroughly cleaned-out any fluff under the stitch-plate and remove the hook/shuttle and give the hook race a good clean and give it a single drop of oil, even if you've got the lightweight part-plastic hook/shuttle fitted.
How do you adjust the tension on a Bernina 180
There are two tension adjustments, which should be done with a proper set of weight gauges - top and bottom thread tension should be carefully balanced to get the best stitch formation. It is best that you assume the top tension is correct and adjust the bobbin tension to match. Load the bobbin with thread of one colour and put a spool of the same thread but a different colour on the top. Thread-up the machine, load the bobbin and sew-off a satin-stitch on max width zig-zag. In this configuration, there should be a very small 'bead' of the top thread showing along each side of the satin-stitch on the underside of the material. If there's excessive top showing, the bobbin tension is too high and if none, the bobbin tension is too low. To adjust the tension, remove the bobbin case and you will see a spring around the edge with two screws through it. One of the screws holds the spring in place and the other adjusts the tension - this is furthest from the edge of the spring and is in a small 'cup' in the spring itself. To reduce tension, turn the screw VERY SLIGHTLY anticlockwise and to increase it turn it clockwise. Make very slight adjustments and re-check sewing-off the satin-stitch every time until you get the required thin line of top showing down each side of the stitch on the underside. Ideally this should be done with Mettler Metrosene thread, but as we're just balancing against the top tension, it shouldn't matter too much provided you use a good thread top and bottom.
12 wt thread
12 wt thread generally will not work well in the bobbin...
"Aurifil 12wt Thread
Aurifil 12 wt thread is ideal for hand quilting, big stitch hand quilting and machine quilting. 12 weight thread creates a more defined and often primitive look. It's great for designs that use a longer stitch length if using a machine. When machine quilting with 12 wt thread, use 40 wt in the bobbin, increase your stitch length, lower your tension, use Topstitch size 90 needles and stitch slowly."
Bernina 1090 Needle assembly stopped moving down
Hi,
There is a spring loaded catch on the needle bar assembly. It is designed to keep the needle bar from going up and down on command for basting. That way it can take fewer stitches while basting. Anyway, over time, with lint build up, use and not enough oiling, the needle bar clamp release can stick. It is located in the machine cover and hard to get at. It is located right at the point where the needle bar clamp (middle of needle bar) is. It looks pointed on top and about 3/8" tall and SHOULD be able to move front to back (as you are sitting at the machine. If you want to fix it your self, lay the machine on it's back to see up into the needle bar area, you can also see through the threading slot as well.to oil it with SEWING MACHINE oil (read not 3 n1 oil) and try to work it front to back until it breaks free and play with it until it springs back every time you push it. I hope this helps.
Kent
4/1/2020 8:45:03 PM •
Bernina 1008
•
Answered
on Apr 01, 2020
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