Bazooka Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

So it is a powered tube, yes? Can't remember, does the Bazooka have a fuse on it? If it is powered, you blew the board.

More than likely you have burned the outputs up.

No doesnt sound defective if it works, but your alternater may not be powerful enough to maintain both your battery and car needs as well as power your amp. Best idea would be to look into getting a different alternator with a higher output.

yes you have a internal fault of the amp. the circuit that puts it into safe mode is bad and that is a very small chip on the board know as a op amp. needs to be repaired.

I have the same amp I just bought off e-bay not working. It's what I do. I buy amps that don't work then repair them and resale. Anyway mine did the same thing and your problem is shorted output transistors. Find which ones and replace. But, since this is a 1 channel amp you will want to replace all the output transistors. Make sure the replacements are from same manufactuer, same date code/ batch number. It's better to have transistors that are from the same batch cause mixed transistors can have little variations that might cause problems later on. Good luck and let me know. I will help you if you need more help. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d

You are sending TOO much power to the speakers, Replace the speakers and then get a much smaller amp that is within the ratings of the speakers. ACTUALLY you should get an amp that is aboout 1/2 the total rating of the speakers.

You should ALSO procure a sound meter to verify the sound level is within safe limits. If you insist upon abusing your ears with too high a sound pressure, be ready to buy hearing aids at a VERY young age.

You also need to know that the enclosure of the speaker plays a part in keeping the speaker from tearing itself to pieces.

MANY of the auto sound system installers are hacks that don't do it right and you see what happens to your expensive equipment!

Using even a Radio Shack sound meter properly will protect your preciuos hearing for later life.

It's normal for amplifiers to heat up during normal operation. If you power up the amp and let it idle (no audio) for about 5 minutes and it remains cool, the heating (when listening at high volume) is likely perfectly normal.

let me know if you have any other questions.

Soder the connection on there. The wires used are just basic speaker wire.

i need more information to help you with this 1 do you have the remote (typicaly blue) wire connected? if so what guadge wire are you running to it and where are you connecting your ground

Check your ground most definitly!, Replace it if needed. Check your remote wire and power wire as well. And if none of this works, then you are having internal issues.

sounds like you may have blown your sub...sheck the spyder inside of it and see if it is stiff..if the speaker doesnt seem too responsive when you press on it, its probably blown...

does the amp work fine after that

remote wire is the blue wire maybe has white stripe that runs into stereo run from there to remote on amp as far as bass knob remote its common 1/4 stereo jack or a phono plug (looks like a phone jack)

The amp needs a remote signal to turn on. This is provided by wire from the back of your head unit. Also look for a 'REM' or 'remote' connection on the amp (besides the 12v and ground connection).

Look at the wiring/setup diagram for your head unit to determine which wire/connection you should use for this.

If the head unit does not have a specific 'remote' wire, you can usually use the power antenna wire to provide a turn on signal to the amp instead.

Double check your fuses. It sounds like you blew a fuse. Check the fuse for the radio aswell as the inline fuse for you amp. On some amplifiers there is a circuit breaker reset button. Check to see if your amp is equiped for that. I did find this quote for reset out of the owners manual.
Remote Turn-on
Automatically turns amplifier on when connected to the head unit's remote output. The
amplifier will turn on and off with the head unit to save current consumption. This control
also operates the reset circuit for the amplifier's protection. It must be connected with
the head unit in order to reset protection circuits.

you can only bridge it if your amp is made for it......the only other way is to have another of the same amp.......tell me what you come up with

when bridgeing an amplifier it always sees half of whatever load you have on it, so if you have a 4ohm speaker when it is bridged the amp will see 2ohms, so yes you can bridge the 4 ohm speaker

you should check the remote wire bc you will get power to your amps if its not hooked up but you wont get any music!

Have you checked the on-board fuses on the amp?

Have you confirmed, with a multimeter, that you have B+ and remote voltage AND a good ground? If not, do the following.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

It appears that there may be an open trace inside the amp. This assumes that the ground connection between the amplifier and the vehicle is intact.

Don't allow the RCAs to contact anything other than the RCA jacks of the amp. Some head units are easily damaged when the RCA shield contacts a power source.

The amplifier will need to be repaired. It's a simple repair and shouldn't be expensive.

Let me know if you have any other questions.