Bazooka Car Audio & Video - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
I have 2 12" and
I suggest you get a meter that measure OHMS and check each speaker to be sure that they are showing the resistance that is listed on the speaker It could be between 8 and 4 OHMS If it is not then you have a bad speaker.
Bt8250d is cutting out
Loose connection or your power cable and earth cable to your amp are not a heavy enough gauge.
Hey i dont know to
Are you connecting positive to positive and negative to negative from the sub to the amp? If so, try positive to positve (+) in the far left channel and then the negative to negative (-) on the far left channel to. If no luck do the same in the other channel with one sub at a time. Try one sub at a time, Dont try an connect 2 or more subs to one channel as this would cause the amp to go into protect mode (red light you describe). Usually the positive wire has either a line down the wire, writting on it or has a red seperate wire with it when wire end stripped to connect it. Hope this helps and please rate...
El1500 turns on but so sound
Hello fordguy, love the name i'm a ford man myself if thats why you chose it. Anyway to the amp. I buy broken amps all the time from E-bay and find which parts are bad order them and replace them and the amps work great. I just bought and recieved the same amp, Bazooka EL1500 and right away when I put power to it the protect light came on. Let me tell ya a little about car amps and the mostly the main reason they go into protect mode. First it could be something small and stupid like a fuse, sometimes amps protect light will still come on even if fuse is blown. Maybe something inside is touching something else causing it to go in to protect mode like lets say a small peice of solder is connecting to solder traces together or whatever, you get the idea. Second and this is I'd say 80% of all protect lights coming on. You either have shorted out output transistors or powersupply mosfets transistors. This is mainly the cause of this all the time. Sometimes though it's not and you have to do further testing. With your amp, I don't know what was going on at the time of when it quit. The capacitor you speak of is fine it's just the protective shrink looks melted cause thats how it was done when amp was made. You need to test all output transistors and power supply mosfets with a digital volt meter set on diode check. Let me know what you find and itf you need help just opost a comment asking for my e-mail and I will taake you thru the steps. If this helps, please rate it so I can get out of this apprentice status. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d
Not finding what you are looking for?