American Standard Heating & Cooling - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Verify power to unit, if so there's few things it could be, Fan Relay, Thermostat, Limit Switch, Capacitor, Burnt/Bad Electrical Connection and of course Bad Fan Motor.

If you are not receiving power to the outdoor unit a few things to check would be the circuit breaker, the outdoor fuse box, and the connections to the control panel inside the air conditioner . Also, if the unit is equipped with high and low pressure switches this could prevent the unit from operating if the switches are open.

It sounds like a stuck reversing valve stuck in heating mode based on a hot refrigerant line. It could be stuck in the heat position because it isn't receiving 24 volts to operate, or it could be stuck internally. Tapping on the copper tubes on the reversing valve sometimes frees one that is stuck internally. It is copper so don't get carried away or you will destroy the reversing valve. Did you feel the temperature of both copper lines? If the reversing valve is stuck in heat, during the winter, your heat pump will ice up, because it isn't reversing to cool as it should when it calls for the defrost cycle to occur. Google "heat pump reversing valve" to see what one looks like You'll need to use a voltmeter to verify that the reversing valve is receiving twenty four volts. Pull the two wires at the reversing valve coil and check for 24 volts. If you don't have 24 volts there when you put the unit in cooling cycle,you either have defective thermostat wiring, or a defective thermostat. If you have 24 volts you will need to check the electrical coil that the two wires plug into. Set the voltmeter to ohms, and make contact with the meter leads onto the terminals of the coil. One lead goes on one terminal and one lead on the other terminal at the same time, to check for continuity. You should get an ohm reading. That means the coil is good. If the meter indicates "0" ohms the coil is shorted and needs replacement. If the meter doesn't read any ohms at all that means that the coil is burnt out and needs replacement When the reversing valve is activated there will be a "whoosh" sound you can clearly hear if you are near the outdoor unit. You can order the A/C parts you need online unless you have friend that is a HVAC tech and he could get one from the Trane supply house. It is a big job to replace the reversing valve involving freon removal and brazing. Hopefully you will find the problem in the wiring, Thermostat, or the reversing valve coil.

A crankcase heater is an electrical component in a compressor in an air-conditioning system, heat pump system, or chiller system. The crankcase heater is normally on all the time, even when the unit is not running, though temperature sensors and set points may turn it off when not needed. A crankcase heater's sole purpose is to prevent refrigerant migration and mixing with crankcase oil when the unit is off, and to prevent condensation of refrigerant in the crankcase of a compressor. The crankcase heater keeps refrigerant at a temperature higher than the coldest part of the system. A crankcase heater generally has the same electrical symbol as a resistor because it converts electricity directly into heat via electrical resistance. The resistance in the heater coil determines the heat it produces when voltage is applied

Several problems can be associated with this problem If running heat it is likely a drain hose or Drain connection that is plugged up. Simply blowing these lines out can solve your problem. If running AC it is likely a Drain from the coil to the Drain line that is plugged up, or you have frozen the unit up. Check the unit outside, if the big copper line or compressor is frozen, turn system off immediately and call a service company to check the system out. I also recommend changing your air filter every 3 months if you haven't done so.

can you look thru the small circle window of the cover of the furnace panel? to see the red light on the furnace control board. If you can see it. Count the blinks of the light. Also keep track if they are long flashes or short quick flashes. they might be 2 long flashes and 1 short or 5 short and 2 quick. After you determine the flashes or the sequence of the flashes. take the cover off the unit and look on the inside panel of the blower door. it should give you the code sequence of the problem you are having on the legend of the wiring diagram. or if there is no legend or wiring diagram on the inside panel of the blower door. it will be in the paper work or unit information package paperwork that came with the unit. If you don't have that. You would need to get the model number of the furnace from inside the furnace. the model number is usually inside the blower door or it could be close to the burners of the furnace itself. if you don't have the wiring diagram or the paper work. then you will need the model number for sure. I think you can go to American Standard.com and look thru their online library of unit specs to get that info. to look thru their library you have to have the exact model number or I believe at least the first few numbers of it. Not sure how many of the first few you need to have. if you cant find the info and have the model number. Give it to me & I will find it for you. Or see if I can find it? americanstandardfurnace.com I think is were it is. Or at the American Standard home AC & Furnaces home page you can search for it. It shouldn't be too hard to find. Or another way would be to call a American Standard parts or unit vendor and tell them your name is Dave or some other common name. And that you work for sears or some other large company like that or a large company in your area. And that you need tech support to get you the code info for that specific unit. If you call when they are busy they usually wont verify the company info or that you do work their. just hearing the company name, they will think you work for that place and get you the info. At most wholesalers they are just trying to make sure they aren't talking to a home owner or a regular person. when they hear a company name they will give you the info you need or tell you were to get it. Also its a good idea to be prepared when you give a company name that you work for or that you don't really work for. the guy on the phone will ask for the name of the company you work for. My name is Dave & I work for sears service. the one on Broadway Road (give them the address and or phone number) of the place. Some places use the phone number of the service place to look up their account and they will have a list of names and want you the verify the address or the phone number. Works good for getting info about a unit that you cant find any info anywhere else. But trying to get parts that way doesn't usually work unless you know how to do it. I would say but not sure these guys on fixya would be okay with that. Hope they don't have a problem with me saying how to get info from a vendor about a trouble code or where info for a code can be found. if they don't like it I am sure I will find out soon enough. and hopefully they will give me another try at this before taking any actions on me or on me being on here. hope I was of some help to you. if you haven't already figured it out or if no one else has tried to answer your question. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_868a5ee3bf9eea64

there could be quite a few problems with it. either it has something to do with the high or low safety pressure switches. Or you have a low voltage issue-not getting enough low voltage power to the coil of the contactor. how long do you wait after you turn the unit on? there is a 5 to 10 minute delay in the control board to keep the compressor from short cycling. meaning to keep the compressor from turning off then on again right away. short cycling a compressor too much will ruin it. There also could be an issue with the delay board it self. Or its a heat pump it could be an issue with the defrost board or the defrost sensor. I have even seen it to have a short in the wires of the coil of the contactor. But when that happens it will burn out the transformer or the low voltage fuse of the transformer or on the control board. have you got it figured out already? If not can you give me more info on what it does? Or if it ever comes on after you wait at least ten minutes. Can you hear the hum the coil of the contactor makes when it is calling for the cooling. you might even have a problem with the contacts of the contactor not getting the proper power thru it to turn or keep the unit on. Like I said there could be quite a few different possible issues with it to not stay on. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_868a5ee3bf9eea64

What is the problem? If its not sensing the flame? Try rubbing off the build up of the carbon on the sensor off with a piece of emery cloth or some sand paper. If it works after you clean it. Replace the flame sensor. It should work for you for a little while after the carbon build up is cleaned off. Not sure of what exactly the problem is. But with a flame sensor the only thing it does is confirm there is a flame to keep the gas flowing thru the gas valve. Its one of the many safety features on most if not all gas furnaces. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_868a5ee3bf9eea64

Not sure if you ever figured it out. Or if someone figured it out for you. Shows no one answered you on here. So I thought I would ask you a question plus also say what I thought it was . When the unit and or the thermostat was replaced? Was the thermostat wire that is inbetween the unit and the blower ever replaced? A service tech should have checked if the tstat wires were touching or shorted together. If you go by color which you should never do. Red is usually 24 volts or power, green is fan, yellow is cooling, white is heat, orange is the reversing valve if its a heat pump, orange to O terminal if RV in cooling or orange to B terminal if RV in heat. O or B terminal depends on who the manufacturer of the unit is. Blue wire is usually the common. you should always check to see how it is wired at the board or relay in the unit. not everyone wires it by the colors. If your fans low voltage wires are touching the low voltage 24 volt power wires in the unit or if the wires are shorted or touching in the wire sleeve or at the thermostat. the blower motor will never shut off. Or if the blower motor is wired directly to line voltage it will never shut off and testing the low voltage wire wont matter. Your question was from last summer. So I am assuming you had someone figure it out by now. If not then check my suggestions. Hope that helps you. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_868a5ee3bf9eea64

Your system sounds like its become clogged and the pressure switch is turning it off before it burns itself up! Call a repair man NOW! Leave it off.

You are out of freon or the thermostat is broken sounds like