Amana Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Just did this swap out - the trick to the Amana NED7200TW belt replacement is you need to do the belt idler threading from the REAR of the unit (unless you have the hands of a 5 year old!) However you still have to pull the entire drum from the front and if you are that far in it is recommended you replace the drive idler pulley. Both parts together are under $30. 1.Remove back screws that hold top on - slide it off. 2.Remove the plastic control panel - careful do not over stress the wiring harness 3.Remove the metal frame that sits below the plastic control panel - again watch the harnesses. 4.On the front of the unit remove the front panel - trick - there are two screws inside of the door that must come out and also you need to disconnect the small harness that feeds the door sense switch. 5.Now you will see a brace that holds the front of the drum - it's like an "H" on its side. Unscrew that and lift and remove the brace - the front of the drum is now free. 6.Presuming the belt is broken, you carefully lift the drum out. 7.Under the drum you will see the motor that drives the belt (and the blower on the front) 8.Next to the motor you will see the tensioner/idler pulley. Pretty simple to replace, use the new screw that came with the new idler. The new ones have ball bearings, will outlast the dryer. 9.With the drum out, put the belt around the drum, groove faced in. Suggest you take a little masking tape to tape it down in a few places to keep it in place while you jockey it around and do the threading. 10.Now, go to the back of the unit, there is a small vent access panel. Remove it, it has a long vent tube that is part of the assembly keep them all together, pull it all out. 11.Now with the drum resting in place, reach in the back to thread the belt - there are diagrams around that show the loop around the drive shaft and the idler, it requires a hefty twist of the idler - maybe 140 degrees from resting position clockwise as you look from the back to get it over the belt, but it fits.12.Now remove the tape and carefully and slowly rotate the drum to get the belt laying flat, work out any twists, groove down, and make sure there are no twists by inspecting the idler from the back. 13.You are good to go, reassemble.

You need to reinstall the software http://rollingskygame.com/run-3

It's not fixed formula, but as per basic rule, easy method tocalculate for motor capacitor. (2650 X full load amps) divided by supply voltage(mentionedin capacitor)= MFD. (Plus or minus 10% to 15%) Ex: 1 Tr which gives full load amps of 6 amps (2650 X 6)=15900 divided by 240(VAC)volts=66.25MFD (10% to 15% plus or minus) You can fix 56.32 mfd or 76.18mfd So, you can go in between 56.32 mfd and 76.18 mfd. If you calculate of 440VAC capacitor, it will be 36 mfd. Hope, it will be helpful . Thanks.

What is -the outside?
Heat pump, gas, electric heat combination?
You may need to back track, double check the Honeywell configuration jumper or software settings for your type of heating used.

The model number is probably NTW4605EW0. Most appliance models from this manufacturer end with a number. Sears Parts Direct has the Use and Care manual for the NTW4605EW0 here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/sblu1hn6dz-001268/amana-ntw4605ew0-top-load-washer . Amana has addtional documents for the washer on their support page: https://owners.amana.com/user-manuals/ . Use the drop-down menu and search box to locate the manuals and installation guide. The current link to the manual (in English) is http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%20W10740545.pdf . I hope this helps. I don't see a printed copy of the manual available from Sears Parts Direct. You can print it yourself or take the file to a print shop (Kinkos, UPS store) later. Cindy Wells

if the lid lock is broke it shouldn't be doing anything. If it is broke, it needs to ne fixed/replaced. If it is doing other things, more troubleshooting is necessary.

https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/amana-nfw7200tw-partially-drains-but-gets-nd-error-code.60807/

https://certificateof.com/ https://certificateof.com/participation/ https://certificateof.com/appreciation/ https://certificateof.com/experience/ https://certificateof.com/employment/

The tray that collect water is full. Remove it slowly and empty into the sink. Don't forget to put it back in the fridge. You need to do this time to time.

This appears to be a reference to the defrosting component of a Amana freezer. Let's just assume that it is not a problem with the freezer door seals. (If the seal is not a tight seal when the door is closed, you have melting occurring and the the freezer trying to compensate by refreezing, yielding a lot of icing in the compartment. This is what happens if you over stuff the freezer and the freezer door does not quite close firmly, as well.) The Amana defrost thermostat might be defective or have become dislodged for some reason. If defective, it would require replacement. But let's say it is not defective. The defroster didn't work when there was too much ice buildup. This could cause the molex connector in the thermostat to contract, breaking the connect activating it. One user "fixed" this problem by putting aluminum foil inside the molex connector. If the theromostate became dislodged from its "attachment point", one would need to know the model of the freezer know where that point was. https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/amana-defrost-thermostat-installation-location.27405/ There are videos describing replacement of the thermostat in some Amana's. You can find such on YouTube. I just can't promise that replacement would fix the problem.

Try changing the board may be defectivive

Maybe themal fuse. Make sure all wires are hooked back up right.

Means an HEating (heating) error. You may have a burned-out heating element, or an open thermal fuse.

Add 1 cup vinegar then 1/2 cup baking soda to water It will fizz & clean &

The currant draw of the unit is higher than the rating of the in line circuit breaker causing it to trip, points to a faulty unit have it repaired.

Check first that there is no leak coming through your gasket a good way is stick a flashlight inside your freezer turn out the lights if you see and beam or light the seal is cracked or must be replaced the check your coils where Freon is supplied if there not cold you must to a pressure test while adding Freon also check for leaks by spraying water on your coils . It's a matter of mathematical elimination also check thermostat if your Amana is under 10 years old look for the fault codes and get someone that can read what faults are being detected

For the Owner's Manual and information on your Amana, go here: http://owners.amana.com/user-manuals/ Good luck.

If the igniter doesn't glow, then you probably have a bad igniter! You can use an ohmmeter to test it. Unplug the dryer before you start working on it. then take the dryer apart until you can get to the igniter. Unplug the igniter plug, and measure it's resistance. If it's less than 100 ohms, then it is okay, but if it's reading over 1000 ohms (or an open circuit), then it is bad and needs to be replaced.

Sounds like a timmer to me.. got a couple bad cycles too bad its the main cycle

call the retail estate agent and have it fixed It is not your position to fix rental property equipment