Amana Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

Hi, Please hit the "constant fan" button until the "on" button is removed from your Amana screen. Thank you.

check to see if defrost fan working

possible bad display control board

bad control board

Mines the exact opposite. Slowly it started stopping while the timer kept going for times dry. Now it won't run at all on times dry but the timer still moves. It also won't run for air dry.

The heating element is accessible through the lower front access panel. Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.

Remove the two screws attaching the bottom of the lower front access panel to the cabinet then slide the panel down then off the cabinet. The heating element can now be accessed and repalced.

Remove the screws securing the heating element to the heater box then pull down the heating element to remove it from the heater box.

Disconnect and label the wires for the heating element and the components. Remove the components from the old heating element then transfer it to the new heating element.

Slide the new heating element up into the heater box and secure it in place. Align the slots on the top of the lower front access panel with the locating tabs on the front access panel then slide it into position and secure the bottom of the lower front access panel to the cabinet.

Hi, Please use other modes to check if the issue exists. Unplug your machine for 5 minutes, plug back in and then you can retest the washer. Thank you.

blower capacitors or motor bad

Just did this swap out - the trick to the Amana NED7200TW belt replacement is you need to do the belt idler threading from the REAR of the unit (unless you have the hands of a 5 year old!) However you still have to pull the entire drum from the front and if you are that far in it is recommended you replace the drive idler pulley. Both parts together are under $30. 1.Remove back screws that hold top on - slide it off. 2.Remove the plastic control panel - careful do not over stress the wiring harness 3.Remove the metal frame that sits below the plastic control panel - again watch the harnesses. 4.On the front of the unit remove the front panel - trick - there are two screws inside of the door that must come out and also you need to disconnect the small harness that feeds the door sense switch. 5.Now you will see a brace that holds the front of the drum - it's like an "H" on its side. Unscrew that and lift and remove the brace - the front of the drum is now free. 6.Presuming the belt is broken, you carefully lift the drum out. 7.Under the drum you will see the motor that drives the belt (and the blower on the front) 8.Next to the motor you will see the tensioner/idler pulley. Pretty simple to replace, use the new screw that came with the new idler. The new ones have ball bearings, will outlast the dryer. 9.With the drum out, put the belt around the drum, groove faced in. Suggest you take a little masking tape to tape it down in a few places to keep it in place while you jockey it around and do the threading. 10.Now, go to the back of the unit, there is a small vent access panel. Remove it, it has a long vent tube that is part of the assembly keep them all together, pull it all out. 11.Now with the drum resting in place, reach in the back to thread the belt - there are diagrams around that show the loop around the drive shaft and the idler, it requires a hefty twist of the idler - maybe 140 degrees from resting position clockwise as you look from the back to get it over the belt, but it fits.12.Now remove the tape and carefully and slowly rotate the drum to get the belt laying flat, work out any twists, groove down, and make sure there are no twists by inspecting the idler from the back. 13.You are good to go, reassemble.

you will need to call for service. if it needs freon you cannot recharge it freon is expensive and requires a license.

Sounds very similar to having something such as a sock or small article of clothing that is too large to be sucked down the drain hose into the pump. So what happens is it hangs around between the inner and outer drums and sometimes gets itself lodged over the drum drain hole, and can allow water to be centrifically flung over the top of the drum. Most times when the spin cycle stops, the article of clothing will dislodge and float around inside the drum only to do it again later....
If you can remove the top of the machine, you can usually see the gap between the two drums and use a piece of coathanger wire with a small hook on the end and "go fishing in the area between the two drums and close to the drain hole location... bet you'll find something in there... Let me know how it goes... and if I can help .. ken

I have an Amana AS12575GRB01, the cover to the light bulb on the fridge side is mounted on the top inside back right corner. Having problems removing it

It is a gas appliance and can only be worked on by a register gas certified technician.

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help figure out why the burner spark keeps on clicking...

Gas Range Repair Burners Keep on Clicking
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4033033-gas_range_repair_burners_keep_clicking

heatman101

check cogs under agitator if ok possible bad motor or belt

That is probably a door lock error. It could be that the door was not completely closed while running. A piece of clothing might be stuck in the doorway. The lock mechanism may have failed. It could also be that the lock position sensor didn't communicate properly with the washer control board. Note: if the error was 5d, that indicates "suds". Too much detergent was in the machine. Try running the washer with no clothing or detergent added. Please add a comment with the model number of your washer for a parts list/diagram. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

This sounds like a selctor switcwh problem. A selector switch determines which of the above mentioned cycles works. Here is some basic information: https://www.partselect.com/Washer+test-switch+repair.htm

The cold that you describe may be just unconditioned air? If you are certain you can hear the comp operating for a couple of minutes, and then the heat starts, I would guess it is a reversing valve issue if it's a heat pump and it probably is. Or the control board acting up. I've had a lot of issues with the boards in the Amanda PTAC units. I can't remember how to configure it, but if you Google "Amanda ptac configuration", there is a lot of info online. May try a reset method first. Hope this helps!

Check your lint screen and vent for restrictions or clogs. Then check the resistance for the thermistor at the control board. You need to confirm that the wiring and replacement thermistor are undamaged. Look for the white connector and test across pin 2 (blue) and pin 6 (red). If the resistance is in range, then the control board is faulty. Replace the control board. I hope this helps. Since you already replaced the thermistor, I assume you know where to find the parts list for your Amana dryer. Cindy Wells

not sure i use mine without exhaust hose