AEG Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

Hi Brooks, did you solve this? I have same issue

Please start with your clothes after the washer finishes it's washing cycle. Take them out and see how dry they are. They should be nearly dry. If not, perhaps the reason you are having problems is they are too wet to begin with for the dryer to properly do it's job.. This is not a rare problem. One possible reason for the clothes not to be dry when the washer finishes is a loose or worn out belt under the washer. Another problem some washers have, particularly washer/dryer combos, is that they are sometimes not very effective. In that case, either smaller loads or rerunning the spin cycle at the end of the washing cycle might help you. God bless your efforts.

Most likely a faulty sensor in the dryer. Like most electronics you probably need a service call.

Nearly ever manual is available online, but 22 litre is a size not a model number. My search query is pointing to Dishwashers with water softeners. The search query is 'make model manual', nothing else. https://www.google.com/search?q=AEG+22L+water+softener ..

To remove the plinth on your AEG FFE62620PM dishwasher, please follow these steps:

1. Turn off the power supply to the dishwasher by unplugging it or turning off the circuit breaker.
2. Open the dishwasher door and locate the two screws on the bottom of the plinth. These screws are located on either side of the dishwasher and are usually covered by plastic caps.
3. Remove the plastic caps and use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws.
4. Pull the plinth away from the dishwasher to remove it. It may be helpful to have someone hold the dishwasher steady while you do this.
5. Once the plinth is removed, you should be able to access the base of the dishwasher and any components located there.
6. If you need to reinstall the plinth, simply reverse the above steps.

If the anti-flood device has activated on your AEG dishwasher, it means that water has leaked into the base of the dishwasher and triggered the safety device. The anti-flood device is designed to prevent water damage to your home and shut off the water supply to the dishwasher. To resolve this issue, you will need to locate the source of the leak and fix it. Here are the steps you can take:

1. Turn off the dishwasher and unplug it from the power outlet.
2. Disconnect the dishwasher from the water supply and move it away from the wall.
3. Check the inlet hose, outlet hose, and drainage hose for any cracks, damage, or loose connections. Tighten any loose connections and replace any damaged hoses.
4. Check the dishwasher door and gasket for any damage or debris that may prevent it from closing properly.
5. Check the dishwasher's interior for any leaks, such as a cracked spray arm or a damaged pump.
6. Once you have fixed the leak, you can reset the anti-flood device by tilting the dishwasher to one side to allow the water to drain out of the base. Then, level the dishwasher and plug it back in.

If you are unable to identify or fix the leak, it is recommended to call a professional technician for assistance.

Error code E6H on your AEG Lavamat washing machine typically indicates a problem with the heating system. It may mean that there is a problem with the heating element, the temperature sensor, or the control board. It's best to refer to the manual for your specific model for the exact meaning of the error code and for further instructions on how to resolve the issue. If you are unable to resolve the issue yourself, it is recommended that you contact a professional repair service for assistance. Attempting to repair a washing machine can be dangerous and may void your warranty if not done properly.

The igniter is not working and should be replaced and there is also a problem with the igniter as well.

no info generic answer inlet valve failure --short in valve circuit

To set the time on an AEG B7500M oven, follow these steps:

1. Press the "Clock" button on the control panel. The display will show the current time.
2. Press the "Hour" button to set the hour. Use the "Plus" and "Minus" buttons to adjust the hour.
3. Press the "Minute" button to set the minute. Use the "Plus" and "Minus" buttons to adjust the minute.
4. Press the "Clock" button again to confirm the time and exit the time-setting mode.

Note: If the oven is in the process of cooking or baking, you will not be able to set the time until the cooking or baking process is complete.

It sounds like your AEG Lavamat 86850 washing machine may be experiencing an issue with the power supply. Here are a few steps you can try to troubleshoot the problem:

1. Check the power cord and plug for any visible damage. If the cord or plug is damaged, it may need to be replaced.
2. Check the outlet that the washing machine is plugged into to make sure it is functioning properly. You can test the outlet with a different appliance to determine if it is the source of the problem.
3. Check the fuse or circuit breaker that is connected to the washing machine. If the fuse has blown or the circuit breaker has tripped, it will need to be reset or replaced.
4. If the issue persists, it is possible that there may be a problem with the internal wiring or electrical components of the washing machine. In this case, it will likely be necessary to have a qualified technician inspect the machine to diagnose the problem and recommend the necessary repairs.

I hope this information is helpful. Let me know if you have any other questions or if there is anything else I can assist with.

Hi, Please double check that no other water-using device nearby is having trouble putting out heated water. If this is the case, please attempt other wash cycles that require hot water as well (you can cut of the cycle once the water temperature has been checked). If the issue persists, please schedule a home appointment with home depot in order to check whether the dishwasher can be repaired or whether it needs to be replaced. Thank you.

There is no fuse unless you are in the UK, South Africa or Australia and it is in the 13 amp fuse in the plug. In normal circumstances it is the breaker on the house circuit that is the 'fuse'. https://www.google.com/search?q=AEG+LAVAMAT+86800+replace+fuse ..

The F19 error code on an AEG double fan oven typically indicates a problem with the oven's electronic control board. This could be caused by a malfunctioning component on the control board, a loose connection, or a problem with the wiring. If your AEG double fan oven is displaying the F19 error code and tripping the RCD (Residual Current Device), it is recommended to unplug the oven and stop using it until the problem can be resolved. Here are a few steps you can try to troubleshoot the problem:

1. Check the wiring: Make sure all the wires and connections are secure and in good condition. If any of the wires are frayed or damaged, they may need to be replaced.
2. Check the control board: Inspect the control board for any visible signs of damage, such as burnt components or loose connections. If you find any issues with the control board, it may need to be replaced.
3. Check for debris: Make sure there is no debris or foreign objects inside the oven that could be causing a problem with the control board.

If you are unable to determine the cause of the problem or fix it yourself, it is recommended to have the oven inspected by a qualified technician. They will be able to diagnose the problem and recommend the appropriate repairs.

This information does not mean anything to us if you didn't specify the model. In what temperature range a freezer works we knew thanks to the stars. One star (-6 degrees centigrade) is perfect for making ice cubes and is sufficiently cold to keep food for three or four days. ** Two stars (-12 degrees centigrade) stores food for fifteen to twenty days. *** Three stars (-18 degrees centigrade) will keep food safe for up to three months. **** Four stars (below 18 degrees centigrade) means that the compartment provides the ideal conditions for freezing down fresh and pre-cooked foods. Dado

AEG Favorit 40850 Problem : Water not heating. Solution : Checking the heater Access to the heater (tube type) is via the small rear panel. Remove two star screws, and pull the sides out SLIGHTLY to release the panel. The electrical contacts of the heater are to the inside so are not visible yet. I removed the left hose (hose compression clip) and the earth connection on the bottom of the heater. This allowed me to twist the heater round and see the electrical connector. I removed this, and measured the resistance of the heater. It was 28Ω, from reading various forums, this seems to be of the correct order, therefore the heater is ok. I put everything back together, remembering the earth connection on the bottom, and turned to the front of the machine Checking the Relay : Again from reading around there is a relay in the supply chain to the heater, described as ?in the door?. I opened the door and removed the crosshead screws. This released the front panel from the inner metal part. The control switches and the mains switch are held in with clips, easily removed, I guess you could leave the mains switch connected to the front panel, but I removed it so that the skin would not be pulling on any wires. I then wrote (with an indelible pen) a number on all the connectors to the control box, noting that one of them has to be fitted at one particular end of the unit connector, as it could fit in more than one position. With the control unit removed the next step was to open it up. The control unit is clipped together with four clips, just press them in and it opens. At this point I should say that there are proper electronics inside this box, so some sort of static protection should be observed! Ground yourself before working inside the unit, touching something metal connected to ground should to the trick (radiator, but not the painted part!), and do not touch any of the components on the board, or the connections. Be careful of the flexible connection between the two boards, do not bend it any more than necessary. The relay mentioned above is in the bottom left of the board in my extremely bad picture. Unclip the main board, and have a look around where the relay is on the other side. One of my pins was charred, and on closer inspection was not actually making contact!! Looks like it was a bad / high impedance joint that was getting hot, and finally melted the solder causing the open circuit that made the heater not work. With a soldering iron I reflowed the solder (adding more as necessary) to make the connection between the relay pin and PCB good. This was the only visible problem, so I reassembled everything (reverse order of disassembly, Haynes is a wonderful manual!!!) and tried the machine. IT WORKED!!! The whole process took probable less than an hour, and saved the cost of a repair man, and a new control unit (I don?t think anybody fixes things like this on a commercial bases any more, easier for them to just replace the unit!! This is what I did to fix my water not heating problem, I am experienced with electrical and electronic components, so if you choose to follow my story please be careful, it can save a few pounds, but it?s not worth risking your life if you really don?t know what you are doing. For interest, the relay is a NAIS device, numbers on the top are JS1-B-12V-F-H111, and AJS1311F MO1. My relay was working so I didn?t need to look for a replacement, but they should be fairly easy to find if yours is broken. Being an electromechanical device this is probably the most unreliable component in the heater chain, although if the rest of the circuit is designed correctly should last for years, if not decades. (I have seen relays used in gas boilers that had no suppression, and therefore burnt themselves out within 3-4 years, but I don?t think that is the case here)

The problem is a worn motor carbon brush which connects power to the motor commutator. The carbon brushes are worn if the motor runs intermittently, if sparks are coming from the brushes, or if the motor doesn't run at all. This video should help you know more about motor carbon brushes and how they work. The video features a washing machine but the carbon brushes are basically the same.

Old question but let's help others. I fixed this same problem. Occasionally I could get the machine running, bou it would just turn for a few spins once every five minutes, and ended up with E50. I cleaned the carbon contact behind the machine, under the plastic cover, and outside the drum on the top of the machine. And also all the contacts on the main PCB. Works again. And remember, this machine MUST be earthed, because otherwise the moisture sensor will not work. E50 refers to a motor problem. This one doesn't have any carbon brushes, so just loosen the belt and check that the motor turns freely. The main PCB somehow monitors the motor load, and this is where those bad contacts come into questions. If cleanind them doesn't help, you probably have a faulty PCB. I use an old toothbrush and some good contact cleaner. And then finish the job with some protective spray.