Admiral Washing Machines - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

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My admiral washer was filling, I tried to pause and it would not pause or stop. I unplugged it and plugged back in, and it's gone haywire.

Washer fills with water then drains: The critical question is. Is the water is just running down the drain but the pump isn't running. If it is being pumped out, and you can hear the pump running just the same as when it's emptying prior to spin then it could be aborting the wash because it is, or it thinks it's overheating. ( due to defective water temperature switch) If the pump is failing to shut off then there is something wrong with the electronics. If your washer is a mechanical timer controlled device then you may have a sticking switch (which may explain if switching cycles does something for you). But if you have an electronic timer then you may be experiencing a board failure, where a cycle is being commanded when it is not intended to by design. If water isn't being pumped out, but just draining away all the time, the washer will keep detecting there isn't enough water inside and top up with more. Modern washing machines should be sophisticated enough to realize something's wrong and abort with an error, but if not, it may continue washing or rinsing for a short while before losing enough water to trigger more coming in again. It can get stuck on this cycle indefinitely and it's called siphoning. Siphoning occurs when the end of the drain hose is lower than the level of the water inside the washing machine. Try raising the hose and see what happens. Also the drain hose should have some type of air gap where it fits into the stand pipe. It should not have an air tight fit. Again Either it's siphoning down the drain due to an issue with the plumbing, it's overfilling, or also if it ( THE WATER) overheats then in some machines the software will employ a fill and drain tactic to cool down the water. The important thing is to work out which of these different faults is causing the problem by careful observation. Other switch's to check would be the water inlet valve and the water pressure switch with a multi meter for continuity or OHMS. And in some modern washers that come with THERMISTORS: One symptom of a washing machine that thinks it's overheating and thus fills and drains at same time ( possibly because of a faulty thermistor) is if it's filling with cold water and pumping out at the same time. This is covered in this articleWashing machine fills and drains at same timealthough the same symptom can be caused by other faults. On some models that have belt drive the WIGWAG selenoid could be defective or the spin and agitate bars could be bent or worn, or the spring worn or broken. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good! Washer fills with water and overflows: The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective. You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED). Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of wether it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test. Also another trick to check the water valve, is to first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
1/14/2017 10:04:53 PM • Admiral Washing... • Answered on Jan 14, 2017
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My washer take water but not continue. is the Admiral Model, this machine use board W10296024. I observated that the door is not locket when finish take water

The washer will not wash unless the door is locked. Check the latch and make sure the safety interlock switch is not broken. This switch will only make contact if door is fully closed.
1/4/2017 4:28:07 AM • Admiral Washing... • Answered on Jan 04, 2017
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My washer machine it's a admiral and it's spraying water over the side and it ends up on the floor the water lol need help plz!

You most likely have deposits built up on the injector valve and nozzle,clean the calcium deposit from the plastic housing, and clean the hose and valve screens of debris.
1/2/2017 1:54:46 AM • Admiral Washing... • Answered on Jan 02, 2017
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My admiral leaks as soon as the water turns on

There are a few places that a washer could be leaking:

1) the water valve itself, it may be cracked (most are plastic), or the hose connecting it to the spout may be loose.

2) the hose from the water valve to the spout (as above) could be loose from spout or water valve. It also may be cracked or have a cut in it from wear on other parts.

3) the spout may be damaged or loose from the back plate making it misaligned so the water spills over the side of the tub.

4) the washtub may be missing a spring that keeps it centered in the machine causing the fill spout to spray water over the side of the washtub.

5) There may be a leak in the tub, pump, hoses for the pump (not likely since when it leaks)

That's all that there is to leak when it does not leak all the time. (if it were all the time you could throw the supply hoses and valves in the mix.

Hope that helps
1/2/2017 1:11:25 AM • Admiral AW22 Top... • Answered on Jan 02, 2017
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I have a admiral washing maching, model LNC6766B71, it is top load. It makes a load noise in spin mode.

if noise is constant maybe bearings? Is the load even? Not totally familiar with item but the I think the two possibilities above are worth considering. Do an spin on empty. NOISE??? I would guess bearings.
12/27/2016 1:08:56 PM • Admiral Washing... • Answered on Dec 27, 2016
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Admiral ATW4475 Left by prior owner of home. Unpleasant Odor of moistness / mildew? / gunk emanates from tub despite careful cleaning including the inside rim. What should be checked and cleaned?

The basket / inner tub is actually what you see when you look in the unit. The inner tub connects to the transmission and sits inside the outer tub. Unless you take the whole top off and remove the inner basket, it is almost impossible to clean the outer tub. You can try to use the oem cleaning method and this is to run it with no clothes, on the hottest setting with one cup of bleach in the water.
12/16/2016 2:34:27 AM • Admiral Washing... • Answered on Dec 16, 2016
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