Adcom Audio Players & Recorders - Page 2 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

well i can help you . tell me the wire color

Things to check: 1. With your multi meter, measure from left ground to right ground. What do you get? Measure from each input ground to chassis. What do you get there. 2. Get or make a pair of shorting plugs. Plug those into the inputs. Power on. Hum there or gone? 3. Turn the pre-amp on. Connect. Level of hum change with preamp on? 4 additional information. How efficient are your speakers? This is a big amp, high-efficiency speakers may show some noise, while low-efficiency speakers won't. A trip back to the shop may be indicated, too.

If I can read you right you are saying that the device keeps blowing the fuse? Fuses blow when there is an overload. As it is an amplifier we are dealing with the cause is more than likely a shorted output transistor or more than one, or whatever does the main amplification for the device. These devices are located on the main power amp board attached to a heat sink. If the amp has fuses for each channel then you only need to replace the devices on that channel, with the fuses blowing on it. The cause of shorted devices is often bad speaker wires or them touching.

we don't sell fuses here, bro....

google that, preferably in "IMAGES"

First thing to do is a Factory Reset. Google that... Adcom GFA-5002 factory reset

not unless it has a Bridge switch OR you design an inverter circuit for one of the inputs. If it has XLR inputs you can try to invert pins 2 & 3 on one of them, that might work...

Check output transistors

The colour code or the value it states on R23 should give you the reading you will see on a test meter on the Ohm setting. If the value doesn't match the colour code of the resistor then you should replace it. It's best to take any resistor out of the circuit to test as strange readings can be caused in circuit. The same applies to the left channel one. Ohm meters are not expensive if you don't have one and can be got from various places that sell electronics parts etc. Some car part dealers sell them. They are a worthwhile investment and can be used for many types of problem.
It's likely that it's a basis resistor and failed when the power jobs went.

Hi...
Doubtful that it's 19 volt reg. I've been doing this for 25+ yrs.

How many leads does the IC901 have and are there any other letters on the pkg?

Thanks

Contact ADCOM thru their website

Theyre very helpful

Possibly. Most amps filter out line hum via low-pass filters. If you can locate a schematic, those would be the caps to check.

If you're friendly about it , the folks at ADCOM will probably give you a schematic
Call and talk to tech support

Obviously you are going to use the Front pre-out's on the Sony to drive the Adcoms. its pretty straightforward, just do not use a speaker that is less than 8 ohms. and make sure that you always have the power switch off on the adcoms, let them sit off for 5 minutes, THEN hit the bridge switch on the back of the adcom's and follow their instructions for bridging. it's pretty easy and tough to go wrong. Good luck...Rob

maybe its a noise cause by other appliances inside your house

Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Check for loose speaker connections as a root cause for intermittent shutdown.

No Power means no supply. Step by step troubleshooting is recommended. Start with the main source power,then the cable wires,then to the primary section of the circuit board.Some components may be busted already.

It sounds as though a remote control button is stuck or perhaps one of the remote control sensors within the unit itself. I would imagine this piece of equipment to be well worth repairing and likely the most cost effective avenue as well.