I've got a crack in the inside tub. The fiberglass part. How do I remove the one side to repair this. And I take it 'J B' Weld will do the trick? LOL Thank you, Mary

Take a look at the videos. It pops out

https://www.google.com/search?q=remove+the+fiberglass+side+panel+from+a+jetted+tub+rectangle+tub+with+fiber+glass+side

..

use a soldering iron to heat weld the crack
there are plenty of videos on the subject on google ---type in --how to weld plastic--- and watch the videos
or take it to a plastic/fiberglass repair shop

I believe these are plastic doors, so you can plastic weld a repair, or rough it up with sand paper and used fiberglass product such as "kitty hair" and glass mat, sand smoth and paint. Better still, there are tons of these in junkyards. Find one the right color and replace the door.

Cheap plastic fatigues with heat . Silicone will work but will not keep the crack from continuing. The fix depends upon what type of plastic you have . It is likely a polyester like fiberglass in which case you can use regular fiberglass to fixit . Rough up the outside with 80 grit , brush in fiberglass resin ( don't forget to mix in hardener) lay in glass material , repeat until built up . Repair the front with a good "gelcoat " repair kit which allows you to mix match color.. sand with 220 , then 600, then 800, then 1500, then 3000 , polish with automotive whit polishing compound , wax

You need to purchase a new pump. Attempting to repair this will only cost you time, money, frustration and a new pump in the end.
RJ

Hello, W/D here. I just wrote this today for another person, who had a crack at a fitting behind a counterweight on a front loader. The instructions are very workable for you as well. If you decide to remove the tub, here's a link to an exploded diagram for the teardown and order that the parts go together:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fW0702082-00003.png

Here's my earlier post to repair in place (as you read this please remember that that person was needing to make a repair where a molded nozzle cracked at the tub):

If you washer is still in warranty, you should let the company make it right.
If not, you can make repairs yourself. Epoxy is useful for repairing cracks in tubs. I roughen up the area to be epoxied and apply fiberglass mesh (the self adhesive wallboard tape) to the area, and then applying J-B weld. I've never had a repair like this break. Overlapping the joint of the tape pieces contributes to the overall integrity of the repair. Just don't put down so much tape at one time that the epoxy can't get to the surface of the drum. Several layers, with curing time in between applications is the best way to go. Depending on where the crack is, the repair is easier to apply if the surface is more horizontal than vertical as the epoxy tends to try to run until it sets, so try to place the washer in a good position, if possible. Removing the tub may make this easier for you, but it isn't critical. If you DO remove the tub, make a similar epoxy repair from the inside of the tub, if possible. This will provide greater strength and sealing.
Hope this gives you better options, --W/D--

Hello, W/D here.
If you washer is still in warranty, you should let the company make it right.
If not, you can make repairs yourself. First, determine why the leak occurred. One common problem is a loose or damaged counterweight. If loose, it will need to be tightened up. I have seen a counterweight that was pre-stressed, with a rod between the mounting points that had broken, allowing the counterweight to hit the strainer. This can be repaired by replacing the counterweight part, or by strongbacking with aluminum, and epoxying the weight back into a solid mass. Epoxy also is useful for repairing cracks in tubs. I roughen up the area to be epoxied and apply fiberglass mesh (the self adhesive wallboard tape) to the area, and then applying J-B weld. I've never had a repair like this break. For your repair, I would recommend that you build the joint up well, with layers of the fiberglass tape and epoxy, and feather the repair out onto the drum surface area several inches. The fiberglass tape can be cut into strips and applied like a bandage, if you need to make wraps. Overlapping the joint of the tape pieces contributes to the overall integrity of the repair. Just don't put down so much tape at one time that the epoxy can't get to the surface of the drum. Several layers, with curing time in between applications is the best way to go. Depending on where the crack is, the repair is easier to apply if the surface is more horizontal than vertical as the epoxy tends to try to run until it sets, so try to place the washer in a good position, if possible. Removing the tub may make this easier for you, but it isn't critical. If you DO remove the tub, make a similar epoxy repair from the inside of the tub, if possible. This will provide greater strength and sealing.
Hope this gives you better options, --W/D--

My secondary bathtub is that way. I was told it was just a surface crack and wouldnt leak. It can be fixed with a fiberglass boat repair kit. However, it would not look very good. I took clear caulk and squirted into mine and it seems to be working fine. Once you put the caulk in rub it in with your fingertip and remove the excess.

From my own experience I had a crack in mine. I sanded the area I wanted to patch. I bought a fiberglass repair kit from the hardware store. I mixed the hardener with the resin and applied it without the cloth. Make sure you have good ventilation and don't get it on your hands. After it dried I sanded it smooth it didn't look the best so I hit with a little spray paint. I have since replaced the tub but it held until I was ready to do that. A couple of years. Hey if this helps give me a vote please.

"JB Weld" Might Work.. Then Paint Over to match Camper