Looks like the forks/shocks are on back wards. If you turn handle bars around brakes hit frame. How do i remove fork /shocks and turn around.

you sure can. You just need to get one that has the same size diameter steering tube as the one you currently have. You will need some special tools to remove the headset races that are pressed on to the fork and then you can move them to the new fork.

As far as "upgrading" to a longer travel fork, take into consideration that when you do this, you will change the geometry of the bike, effectively "slackening" the head tube angle and they will dramatically affect the steering of the bicycle, it will turn very "sluggishly" and feel like it flops from side to side almost.

Not a big deal if you are on the street, but in a technical offroad situation, this can be a problem if you are not used to the new handling dynamics.

Bicycle frames are literally built around the forks for their handling characteristics. But you say, "I see this done on motorcycles all the time." Yes this is true, but the devil is in the details. On motorcycles a "triple-tree" crown is used and typically the lower tree is machined with the proper offset factored in so that longer forks can be used without lifting the frame and affecting the handling. The one major factor that determines the handling characteristics of two wheeled travel is the measure of the front wheel's "trail". Google it and you will find volumes of information on it and how it is measured. For bicycles there is a "sweet spot" of trail measurement, most manufacturers keep this as a proprietary secret. Before you actually swap out the forks, you can calculate how the longer forks you plan on installing on your bike will affect the trail measurement on your bike to determine if you want to ride the bike this way, before you spend the money. Only you can decide if it is better to save up the money to buy a longer travel bike with the correct geometry or not.

good luck and wear a helmet. More suspension travel just allows you to ride faster off road, so you might be going OTB (over the bars) with the new, longer travel, option. :-)

For a 2004 Softail - you never gave a model year.
1. Place rear fork (3) in the frame so that
the bores in the frame align with the bores in the fork.
Insert the bushings (10) into the spherical bearings (7)
from the inside.
2. Install pivot shaft.
a. Apply LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE to pivot shaft (4).
b. From the right side, install pivot shaft and spacers
with spacer collars facing transmission case.
c. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red) to
threads of pivot shaft nut. Install and tighten pivot
shaft nut to 90-110 ft-lbs (122-149.1 Nm).
NOTE
Proper pivot shaft tightening is important to maintain rear fork
alignment.
3. Check for freedom of rotation of the rear fork around the
bearings and that the fork and frame side members have
not been distorted when the pivot shaft nut was tightened.
4. Install the canister (California models),
fender extension (2), brake caliper and rear wheel.
5. Install both rear shock absorbers (9) using bolts and
washers (8).

where the handlebar goes into the frame, there is a nut that goes around the gooseneck loosen that, and below that is a bearing race that you tighten by hand ( it has a knurled edge) tighten that by hand...just enough so there is no play, and then retighten the locknut

Look for what type of fork stop mechanisim the bike has. Most likely something( cable,wiring etc.) is wedging in the forkstop and not allowing the fork to turn to full stop.

Where you inserted the handle bars into the bearing assembly on the frame there is a fork clamp you had to tighten to secure the handle bars and front fork. Loosen this and you should be able to disassemble the front end. While reassembling be sure the you line up the notches on the fork with the grooves in the bearing assembly and that the handle bars are properly aligned before tightening the fork clamp.

Get the bike up off the ground and make sure it's secure. Remove the rear wheel and the rear shocks. Look for anything else that may be attached to the swing arm such a brake rod return springs etc.

Once you have everthing off the swing arm, take the pivot bolt out and the swing arm with the bearings slides off the frame. Remvove the screw and lockwasher, bearing lockwasher, the right bearing locknut, and the bearing outer spacer. Using a punch, turn out the left bearing locknut from the fork hub and remove the spacer. From inside the fork, press or drive out the bearings and bearing spacers by applying pressure against the spacer. Press or drive out the bearing shields from fork inner side.

Hope this helps,

Good Luck
Steve

Hi,

I was told by many people it was a hard job.
I didn't think so.

What you need is:
New Seals.
8mm Allen Key.
Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender.
Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device.
Fork Oil + Measuring Jug.
Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end.
Spanners.
Screw Drivers.

How to do:

First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)

Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.

Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.

Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).

From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.

Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.

Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).

Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.

Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.

Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.

If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.

One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.

Clean Everything.

Clean Again.

Polish Tube.

Clean Again.

Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.

Place New Oil Seal on Gently.

Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.

Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.

Slide Slider back onto Tube.

Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)

Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.

Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.

Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.

Replace Spring into Fork.

Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).

Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)

After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.

Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.

Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.

Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel

Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.

Replace back onto bike Calipers.

Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.

At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.


Did I Forget Anything?

Jack up the front end until the wheel is off the ground, then slowly rotate the bars from one stop to the other. If you hear noises or it feels rough, take the forks and wheel off, disassemble the fork head and inspect the upper and lower bearings and races for damaged surfaces. Clean and repack bearings with fresh grease. Reassemble the fork head and adjust the bearings to just remove slop. Recheck the rotation. When putting the forks and wheel back, check the shock action of each fork individually. If the machine has a lot of miles, drain the fork oil and recharge. Make sure that the axle is clamped tight as well as the fork head clamp and top bolts. Has the bike ever been hit hard in the front? If yes, it could have changed the fork angle making it unstable.

You need to assess to what level is the fork bent,if the metal on the chrome of fork is twisted then you need a new one else you will have to remove the forks completely,remove the tyre and get one of the fork tube out and go to machine shop they can use a hydrolic press to straighten it.And there you go!!Forks is back on..Please note you have to align the forks by twisting the steering..

you should be able to saporrt bike so front wheel is off the ground   then take a marker and put lines around where the forks meet the triple trees that hold them in place their should be some allen head bolts that u can loosen on front of the triple clamps  once these are loose you should be able  to move the forks back to strait again in line with the handle bars just line the lines up that u put on them earlier and tighten the allen bolts back up    also  when making the lines  make them from left  to right so marker is touching both fork tube and triple clamp   this is only so you get can keep them the same ride hight as before