I am now the proud new owner of Sony's CD300 camera, and let me tell you I AM IN LOVE! I am not a pro photographer by any means; but this camera is excellent. My first camera was an FD-73, and then I had a P-50; both of which I sold to purchase my new CD300. It has the best of all features--a great megapixel rating for crisp, clear (and large) images, a storage media that can be used in anyone's computer without drivers etc., and a nice big LCD screen!
I have a question, though, for those of you out there who have been doing this a lot longer than me... I have been to numberous websites and still can't make this sink into my brain; can someone please explain to me how I can take advantage of manual aperture and shutter adjustments, and how exactly the OEV setting works? I took about a dozen pictures yesterday, and then jacked up the OEV one notch brighter, and it made a 100% difference in making the picture better... but I just don't understand how it works.
Thanks so much, guys!
- Susan
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I'm not sure I totally understand your question, but anyway, it is my understanding the 0EV is the exposure setting the camera "thinks" is best for your aperature and shutter speed. If you put it on M and then adjust the shutter speed or aperatuer or both, the 0EV will change telling you that you are either over exposing or under exposing your pic with those settings. You can then adjust it back down to 0 by fiddling with the aperature or shutter again, depending on shooting conditions and goals for the shot. As you have discovered the 0EV isn't always the best setting for a given shot. Add-on lenses and filters will throw it off as will other things. I haven't yet mastered when to set it other than 0 for a given shot, so if I have time I will take several shots at different exposures for any given settings. You can accomplish this quickly using the exposure bracket. Hope this helps, and any of you experts out there feel free to correct me or add to this!
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EV stands for exposure value. An indication of 0EV is what the camera thinks the correct exposure should be.
If the EV becomes a positive number it means the camera thinks the image is overexposed by that amount (+1=1 stop, +2=2 stops overexposed etc)
A negative value means the camera thinks the image is under exposed.
I have a 707 and find the I prefer the images from it at -0.3EV, so if you're happy with the setting you have now, I say stick with it.
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You can download the latest Sony driver here. Since the camera is over a decade old it's unlikely Sony or anybody else will be writing new drivers for it.
Go to the support section of the Sony website to download a copy of the owner's manual to your computer. Next, downloading from the camera is the slowest way and sometimes Microsoft updates cause your computer to not even recognize your camera. Buy a card reader to download to a folder you create on your desktop and you'll never regret it.
Yours is a CD recording type. Shouldn't you just load the CD from the camera to the computer? Then cut and paste to a folder on your computer. Or copy and paste. Ed
Okie-tex,
Why yes you can reset your cd300 back to the factory settings. On the bottom of the camera underneath the on and off button for your LCD is a little hole and it says reset next to it. Insert a straight pin into that hole and it will reset everything back to factory settings. Fellow Texan
for average still shots, do I need to
constantly monitor & adjust scene selection (twilight, landscape,
portrait)?
No, just leave it on the little teal colored camera. If you want to use the scene selections then it must be on SCN. I unfortunately spent a lot of time when I first got this camera switching between scenes
without putting it on SCN - so it didn't really change scenes!
Also, when switching modes, must I turn camera off
before rotating mode dial?
No
The camera is not megabytes (MB) but megapixel (MP), there is a big difference. If you multiply the horizontal resolution by the vertical resolution then that will be how many megapixels are being captured. So in this case, max resolution 2048 x 1536 = 3145728 which is 3.1 MP effective. I don't think any camera actually captures exactly the full MP listed on the camera.
Now, if each pixel was represented by a byte then you would have 3.1 MegaByte picture captured. However, each pixel is represented by I think 3 bytes which would give you a 9.3 Megabyte picture captured. However, since this is usually to large for most users to deal with, compression is introduced thus the settings for fine and standard.
The tiff picture type is the 9.3 Megabyte photo with no compression. For most of us this isn't very effective for working with so we use the jpg compression. This reduces the picture to a more manageable size for saving, manipulation and storing. Keep in mind that this is what is called a 'lossy' compression which means that it actually removes pixels from the photograph and uses a technique called interpolation to bring the pixels back later.
I don't have that camera, but try Macro mode instead of Conversions Lens in setup. If the camera focuses (at Wide setting), then you should be able to get down into the wider apertures.
Even though Sony Mavica digital cameras are listed as compatible with iPhoto, the camera has to be set to Picture-Transfer-Protocol (PTP) before you can download. In addition, you will need to open Image Capture in the Applications folder. As soon as these steps are taken, the camera is recognized by iPhoto and all photos downloaded into Image Capture.
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