Purple Fringing with H1

Took some photos this weekend at my sons soccer game and boy was I disappointed in the amount of purple fringing from my H1. Does anyone know what causes this and what is the best way to removing using post processing. Thanks! Treaks

Anonymous May 31, 2008

Purple fringing on pics when using the 1.5x converter on Fuji S5700. More pronounced if the background is sky. As in birding photography.

Can this be corrected with a filter on the lens?

John Hill

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14 Answers

I use paintshop pro v9 to remove purple fringing. It has an option under ADJUST/PHOTO FIX/CHROMATIC ABERRATION

it really does a great job even in automatic mode!!! Im sure the latest vs 11 will work even better!

This is common with zoom lenses. very difficult to find any optics that does this. maybe some cameras will remove that within the camera itself.

Posted on Nov 17, 2007

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Remove the purple rim around my pictures?

That is known as 'purple fringing' and is usually the result of the sensors and/or the lenses in your camera not being able to handle higher contrasts or over-exposure. Scientifically it has more to do with the how the camera sensor responds to the available light spectrum. (see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Purple_fringing) Have you notice it is generally more pronounced where a very bright (white) area meets a high contrast (black) edge (like a bright sky behind a dark or shadowed object)? Best way to avoid is to be careful about the relative light levels exposures when framing the shot---or using a UV filter. There are many photo editing programs which can help eliminate purple fringing in post production. Have a read through: http://www.photoforbeginners.com/news/tutorials/how-to-remove-purple-fringing-from-your-photos.

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Front and back focus tests are good to run. You need to do it for each prime lens (fixed focal length) you have, and at your favorite focal lengths for wide angle zoom lenses too. That means on this 17-50, you would pick wide 17mm and zoomed in 50mm, and several others between. If you pick 25mm and 35mm to test, you would end up with 4 potentially different adjustments. These would apply only at 17, 25, 35 & 50mm. If you shoot at say 20mm focal length, and assume it's the same as 17 or even 25mm, you may be wrong. Too much back or forward focusing is a problem with the camera body usually - not the lens.

I'd pay attention to the lens. Look for cloudiness on the edges of the glass, scratches and fungus on glass, wetness or oil on the aperture blades, specs of dust inside the lens, etc. All of these things take away value from the lens, as they can adversely affect the image or shorten the useful life of the lens. You check these things by looking directly through the lens (not on the camera) and look at a dark background - then a light colored background to help show dirt and dust inside.

The only other thing is to look at actual images taken with the lens. Enlarge the pictures to 100% or more. Look for fuzzy edges, purple fringe edges, colors. You will see all of these issues the more you zoom in. You have to decide what it acceptable to you and what is not. Expensive lenses capture great color, are very sharp and have minimal purple fringing on hard edges (high contrast areas) in pictures.

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The term for an out-of-focus purple "ghost" image on a photograph is "Purple Fringing."

This is fairly common in Digital Photography.

In order to minimize instances of purple fringing you may incorporate the following:
Avoid shooting with big aperture (Small /f number) in high contrast compositions.
Avoid overexposing highlights (e.g. bright sky behind dark objects).
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You could also use Post-processing to remove purple fringing by scaling the fringed color channel. This can be done in an image editor like Photoshop.

These suggestions will help in minimizing the instances of color displacement for you.
I will look forward to your feedback and positive rating.

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