F828 and ISO question

Either too low an ISO or too narrow an aperture.

decrease shutter speed, increase aperture size (lower F-stop), and/or increase ISO.

Shooting sports and the evening can be a compromise between needed s fast shutter to stop action or a longer shutter to allow enough light for a good exposure. Fortunately, you've got a "fast" lens. My suggestions are:

Shoot in "A" mode (aperture priority) and change the aperture of the lens to the lowest number available to make the aperture open to maximum, and increase the ISO to 400 or 800. You may even get satisfactory results at ISO1600, but you should check the results on a computer screen before blindly going out shooting at the level.

By increasing the aperture, two things happen; exposure times are reduced to minimum so that motion is stopped (or blur minimized) and the the depth of field becomes very narrow or "shallow". Depth of field or "DOF" describes the distance in front and beyond the point of focus that will also be in focus. Large apertures (low "f" number s like 1.4 to 2.8 ) = narrow DOF and small apertures (high "f" numbers like 16 to 22 and beyond) = wide DOF. An example would be if you took a picture of someone's face from a2 feet away at f 1.4 and focused on the tip of the nose - the eyes would begin to get soft or out of focus - the ears would be even more noticeable - and that background would very blurred. The same picture at f 22 nearly everything would be in focus - except for maybe the background - depending how far behind it is from the subject's head. Check the example below:


Look at the backgrounds of the pictures above. The left is largely in focus at f 8 while the right is blurry at f 2.5. Had left been shot at f 22 or more, more of the background would be in focus.


Increasing the ISO to 400 or 800 increases the camera's sensitivity to light like film. The higher the ISO, the less time it takes to get a properly exposed picture. High ISO are helpful in low light situations or other times you need to have a faster shutter speed (for sports or don't have a tripod for pictures that need long exposures). Assume you want to take a picture of something that the camera tells you won't be exposed correctly unless you shoot at say for example f 2.8 and shutter is 1/30 second. If the camera ISO was set to 100, you could change it to 200. This doubles the sensitivity to light - meaning you need 1/2 the light; you can change the f number from f 2.8 to f 4, OR, leave it at 2.8 and increase the shutter speed to the next faster value 1/60 sec. If you change the ISO to 400, it is now 4x's sensitive than 100 (or 2x's than 200). At ISO 400, you could go two f stops smaller to f 5.6 or stay at 2.8 and increase shutter from 1/30 to 1/125. For ISO 800, you could go three f stops smaller to f 8 or stay at 2.8 and increase shutter from 1/30 to 1/250. You can mix and match, too. Go one up on the speed and two smaller on the aperture. The drawback to higher ISOs is that the pictures become grainier with each increase. Eventually, the pictures don't look good when you get into ISO numbers above 800 (or less on some DSLR cameras - and even less on point and shoot types). You have to experiment to find where your preferences are. See below for Low and High ISO comparison shots:


The left picture above has nice, smooth transitions between shades of colors - the right picture has a grainy appearance called "noise". Some is acceptable but others are not - it depends what YOU can live with. Sometimes it's better to have a grainy shot than nothing at all.

Lastly, you can shoot "S" for shutter mode, to control motion instead of "A" which controls volume of light instead. The same principles apply.

I hope this helps & good luck!

ISO is the sensitivity to light. The lower numbers 80, 100, 200 are the LEAST sensitive (but provide the best looking pictures). Sensitivity has to do with the amount of light needed to properly expose an image. ISO is a part of exposure that works with Aperture (f stop) and shutter speed (in seconds - or fractional seconds). Here's how it looks:



The graphic above shows that varying either of these three values changes the exposure. If you change one by one step, you have to change one of the others by one step to get about the same exposure result. Each of the step values on your camera for the shutter, aperture and ISO is twice as much as the previous value. ISO 1600 is 2x ISO 800, which is 2x ISO 400, and 2x ISO 200 and finally, 2x ISO 100 (some cameras go to ISO 50 or less!).

The shutter works the same way: 1/1000 is 2x faster than 1/500, and 2x 1/125, and 2x 1/60, and 2 x 1/30, etc. These are easy to see the how each is twice as much as the other.

Finally, the aperture. Each "f stop" allows 2x as much light as the previous value. f2 lets 2x as much light as f2.8, which lets in 2x as much as f4, etc. I know the number don't double like you would expect, and the smaller numbers allow more light (you'd think it was the other way around) - but it's because we're talking about a circular lenses and it has to do with how we calculate area of a circle (3.14 x R squared). It may be easier to recall small numbers = equal large openings by thinking of f numbers with a "1/" over them - like this: 1/f1.4, or 1/f2, 1/f2.8, etc. Here's a chart that shows how aperture and shutter speed work together at one ISO setting.



Read them across, the top line shows that 1/250 @ f1.4 is the SAME as 1/125 @ f2.0, which is also the SAME as shooting 1/60 @ 2.8, etc. If you were to increase the by one step, the shutter speeds would increase by a factor of two. Twice as much light by opening the aperture by a single stop means you must halve the exposure time or halve the ISO value. Likewise, if it's too dark to get a decent picture; increase exposure time or ISO value to capture enough light.

Assume a properly exposed picture requires 1/30 of a second at f5.6 with ISO 200. If the camera was increased by one step to ISO 400, you can take the picture a f5.6 still but in 1/60 sec - greatly reducing the chance of blur from holding the camera in you hand. You could even go up one more step to ISO 400 and shoot in 1/125 sec, which would reduce the blur even more. Fast shutter speeds reduce the "camera shake" and stop motion in sports photography - or other moving objects. If you had the camera set up on a tripod, you could dial the ISO down to ISO 100 and shoot at 1/30 of a sec at f5.6. If your lens can open up to f4, you can shoot in half the time because the lens is letting in twice the light. Some point and shoot cameras don't allow changing f stops or even shutter speeds - so all you can do it raise and lower ISO.

Which camera and flash do you have?

What I'm thinking is the shutter and or the aperture ring is lazy. Move the aperture ring up and down several time see if the little ring next to the the camera body is responding quickly to the change.
Do this without film in the camera.
What I'd suggest is setting the camera in "M" mode aperture at F8 manual set the ISO at 100 and the shutter speed at 1/60 shift the camera into manual focus. The shutter can be in AF-S (single frame with each depress of the shutter). Trip the shutter and listen to it work do that a few times (maybe three) then set the speed at 1/125 do the same test listen the shutter should sound faster. Repeat the test at 250 then 500 then 1000. Then start backing down to 1/60th again, listen to the response. In all manual mode the shutter has to fire it it isn't or the speed doesn't increase and then decrease then the shutter needs service.

If your camera is a Rebel XS you should have a dial on the top right with a series of letters and icons. To set your camera so you manually control the shutter speed turn this dial too "TV" (Time Value). This setting will allow you to select the shutter speed and the aperture will open or close to achieve the correct exposure. The "M" is (Manual) where you would select both the shutter speed and aperture "AV" is (Aperture Value) where the user selects the aperture they want and the shutter speed increases or decreases to obtain a proper exposure. The "P" (Program) mode allows the camera to automatically select the shutter speed and aperture

When you set the aperture to 22, you decrease the amount of light coming through to the sensor. Hence, you camera compensates by increasing the shutter time. With the decrease in shutter speed, you have a higher can of blurring the picture if you're holding the camera by hand. Try mounting on a tripod to keep the camera still. See if that helps.

Shutterspeed depends on 3 things: the amount of available light, the aperture (lens opening) and the ISO setting.
Every full step you can open the aperture (like from F8 to F5,6) will half the shutterspeed. And every time you double the ISO, the shutterspeed will half. Raising the ISO will increase the noise in the picture.
Mode P, S, A and M will allow you to make these settings manually. If you use the N mode, the camera will do most of these things by itselves.

Not sure what you are really asking here as it would depend on the settings you have selected to use.

For instance if your ISO ) ASA film speed) is set to 64 and you have an aperture priority setting of say 6 then the shutter will go clllllllllickkkkk ( be slow say 1/30th of a second. As opposed to say ISO of 200 and an aperture of 16 the camera will go cliick now if you select ISO 400 and aperture of 16 the camera will clk This is the "sports type setting for fast moving objects ) I am presuming daylight average light for the above
after 4pm or in some shade areas shutter speed can also be delayed and the picture result is blurred due to camera shake at low speeds.
then u need a tripod

Now what have you selected as an amateur snapshot artist?
Day night settings
AUTO
ISO 100 + ........
portratit
landscape
night

Any of these settings on auto will also be delayed depending on ISO and the amount of ambiant light available to the camera. So you need to get to know your cameraq by practice

Some settings ( see manual) suggest using shutter priority to get good pics
Others suggest aperture priority.

It might be better for you to get a basic digital photography book to help you understand and compose good pics ( Digital photography for dummies ( or DP basics)


Hers a tip worth remembering with apertures

Smaller the number larger the hole(aperture)
Larger the number smaller the aperture

larger hole for lower light
smaller hole for very bright light

so experiment with aperture to be familiar on what to select for the degree of light then test different ISO speeds and keep notes.

When you use zoom increase the EV by 1+ and see what the difference is to standard distance

All great fun and learning and now cheaper because you dont have to pay for film or development to see what creative pics you have made!

So perhaps the camera does not have a problem, it just has you, and

you need to bond so Good Luck and ,many happy snappy hours of fun


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