Amana ALE643RBW Dry will not start. I checked the thermal fuse and the high limit thermostat both read 0 to 4 back to 0 ohms. It was jumping around back and forth. Checked the heating coil it read 10 ohms. I would like to check the motor with electric cord but not sure what terminals to clip the wires to. Thanks Dale

Use the same size or the next size up. Assuming you solved the problem as to why it melted in the first place.

Get the schematic and look at the timer. there are two wires that you can jump across and verify that the timer is bad by bypassing it all together. If all your checks tested good then the timer is bad. If you have any doubt order the part from repairclinic.com because you get a full refund even if you put it in and it does not work

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Hello, Before you replaced all those parts did you check each with a multimeter by performing an ohms test or measuring for continuity? By doing this it would tell if any of the parts that you had replaced were at fault. You can also conduct the same test on the heater as well. when performing any ohms or continuity test make sure the unit is unplugged and that you also unplug the part as well from the wires that are connected to it. I await your reply if you have any other questions. Thank you
Rick

Hi.

If the dryer runs there is no problem with power. If the appliance runs but does not heat the problem is one of the thermal devices. The dryer comprises one thermal fuse, several thermostats and the element. Thermal fuse and thermostats must be checked along with the element.

Start from the thermal fuse. The fuse can be tested reading impedance with a multimeter. If the fuse is open it will read Ohms infinity. In that case replace the fuse. Here the part: ASSY-BRACKET (THERMOSTAT) (Thermal Fuse with Bracket).

The fuse is part n.15 in Diagram one below. Click on the picture to enlarge:



If the fuse is OK, or if replacing the fuse did not help test the thermostats. You have the following parts:

THERMOSTAT - Part 11 in diagram

High Limit Thermostat -Part 13 in diagram

THERMISTOR - Part 27 in diagram

If the appliance is running the door switch should not be the problem. If you need test also the DOOR-SWITCH.

The thermostats can be tested reading impedance. If there is no heat, then one of the thermostats is open and will return Ohms infinity. Other way to test a thermostat is by jumping its contacts and running a controlled cycle to prevent overheating.

Regards.

Ginko

in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

there is thermal fuse, Hi limit, and thermistor. the thermistor should have continuity at room temp I don't know what resistence(ohms) it should have. Most units I have seen provide a schematic and trouble shooting guide taped under the control panel for service personal.

Hi.

As first thing try replacing the thermal fuse.

The thermal fuse is located in the blower housing, near to the exhaust at the back of the dryer. The thermal fuse cost is only few dollars. Before replacement it can be tested reading Ohms with a multimeter. If the multimeter set on impedance reads infinite Ohms (No continuity, same as on air), then the fuse must be replaced. A good fuse must read low or zero impedance.

If the thermal fuse is OK, the next parts to test are the thermostats. On GE gas dryers there are at least two thermostats. One is a control of themperature, the other is an high limit. High limit is hosted on the blower housing, near to the thermal fuse. There is one or two thermostats near to the blower wheel. Often there is a safety thermostat near to the burner. To get details on the specific model check the schematics tucked inside the appliance or available online.
The thermostats are tested reading Ohms at room temperature. If any of them returns no continuity at room, then the thermostat is faulty and must be replaced.

If the thermostats and fuse are OK, then the next step is checking valve and igniter. The igniter or glowbar is tested energizing it and observing if there is spark. The valve is tested reading Ohms on solenoid with multimeter set at Rx1. If the solenoid has no continuity, then the valve is faulty. There is also a flame sensor that can be tested reading impedance or jumping its contacts.

If all the parts listed above are OK, then wiring and electronic timer control board must be tested reading voltages at contacts.

The problem is likely the thermal fuse or one of the thermostats.

Apart replacing the part, ensure that the hoses are not blocked , and that there is no lint inside the machine. This may have caused the fuse blowing.

Here a general diagram that can help you in identifying parts.

All tests must be done by a trained technician.

To get a technician on site , or to get a quote on repair ring the number listed on the owners manual.You can also get an US technician contact using our directory:Contacts.

To get parts ring GE at the number on manual.

You can also use one of the websites listed here to get parts and diagrams:

Where do I find parts and diagrams for my Appliance?

All the heating and temperature control components are located in the back of the dryer. To access, unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Turn the the dryer around so you can view the back and remove the back panel. With the panel removed, the component locations are as follows:

Right-Hand Side:

1. Heating element - located inside the heater box. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is about 9 to 13 ohms.

2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

3. Hi-Limit Thermostat - located on the outside of the heater box adjacent to the heating element terminals. It works in conjunction with the TCO to help regulate the drum internal temperature. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, it is recommended that you replace BOTH components to prevent premature failure. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

Left-Hand Side:

1. Thermal Fuse - located on the blower fan housing. It is a small white plastic looking component with two wires attached. If defective, the dryer will not run at all. If the component is good it should read a short (0 ohms).

2. Internal Bias Thermostat - located on the blower fan housing adjacent to the Thermal Fuse. It has four wires attached to it.

NOTE: All resistance checks should be performed with the component terminal wires disconnected to prevent false readings.

If you have any questions, you can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you. The components I mention are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat replacement kit
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat sold separately
Item 17 - Heating Element
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Internal Bias Thermostat

If you need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

This may be a little overkill, but I thought I would try to be thorough.

If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side as you are facing the back of the unit. The Hi-limit thermostat will be the closest to the heating element terminal, while the TCO will be located on the on the opposite end near the top of the heater box housing.

If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side. If you own a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet model, the lower panel is removed by loosening the screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel.
The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side under the drum as facing from the front. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the heating element terminals, while the TCO is located furthest to the back of the dryer on the heater box housing.

The operating thermostat and thermal fuse (if equipped) are usually located on the blower fan housing.

CAUTION: It is recommended that you unplug the dryer BEFORE servicing the inside or cleaning. There are still dangerous voltages present even with the machine turned off.

Symptom:
Dryer Runs, But Does Not Heat:

Suspected Components:

1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.
5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.

NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended to replace the High-Limit Thermostat and TCO at the same time of one or the other is found to be defective.


Dryer Does Not Run At All:

Suspected Components:
1. Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, the drum light will not come on.
2. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
3. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
4. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
6. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
7. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.

These recommendations for TROUBLESHOOTING are not all inclusive as different manufacturer models vary in components and configuration. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back if you have any further questions.