Light leakage detected from my second hand PRO TL especially at low shutter speed (<1/15 sec). Details are as follows: a) appeared at lower third of a frame; b) spread out evenly from 3 points lying horizontally (left, middle, right), with a clear cut baseline; c) separate 5 cm from one frame to another; and d) No leakage at high speed shutter. Why?

If you are using a residential LP cylinder then the check valve needs to be reset. If not, check and adjust the carburetor shutters at the tip of the venturi tube and the set-screw inside the valve stem.
This will correct the issue almost always.

If you are seeing motion blur in your photos, the shutter speed may be too long. Are you shooting in very low light? Are you moving the camera while taking these shots?
Try switching the camera to shutter-priority (Tv) mode, and using the dial to choose a shutter speed like 1/100 or 1/250. If your shots are too dark unless you use something like 1/40 or 1/30 (or lower), then you'd need to use flash.

Blurred images are caused by several reasons: motion due to camera shake, use of slow shutter speeds and failure of the camera to focus correctly.

Slow shutter speeds

When light is low, wide apertures and slow shutter speeds will be selected automatically by the camera. Most people can't take blur-free, hand-held shots when the shutter speed is under 1/60th of a second.

Cameras that have optical Image Stabilization help but even IS has its limits. Increase room lighting, increase the ISO setting or use a tripod, or use a combination of all three.

Blurred images or misfocus

If an image is blurred due to camera shake, the blur will appear throughout the entire image. If parts of an image are in focus, and others are not, you've misfocused.

6.5fps is only the manufacturer's indicative maximum. The camera will not always perform at this speed when conditions aren't suitable (too dark, for example). In Sports Mode, the camera decides the correct shutter speed for that scene. If it's not a very bright day, shutter speed has to be lowered (slow) to compensate for the lack of light. This results in a lower frame per second.

If you want to test the max fps, set your camera on Tv, and set the speed to 1/1000+ on a bright sunny day. Set the Drive Mode to AI Focus or AI Servo. If at 1/1000th of a sec, the Aperture value blinks in the viewfinder, you don't have enough light. Increase the ISO. You should be able to achieve 6.5fps. That's my experience anyway. Good luck.

If you are in Manual Mode and you set your shutter speed too higher (ie above 250th sec) the shutter blind passes over the sensor when the flash goes off causing a dark section in the photo. Lower the shutter speed to get a better sync. Some camera's default sync speed is 1/60th of a second and sometimes user adjustable.

Remember the longer the shutter speed, the more light will register in the photo. Also boosting the ISO will help extend the flashes range and also record more ambient light for a more pleasing and balanced photo.

BMW engine light

Comes on if DME engine management system self diagnostic fault detected. Will stay on until codes are called up and memory erased.

With OBD read the code as follows. Turn on ignition key, press accelerator pedal to the floor five times within 5 seconds. The check engine light will remain on for 5 sec , blik off, come on for 2,5 sec, go off for 2,5 sec and fault code will begin to flash. If more than one fault exist 2nd fault code will be separated by 2,5 sec pause. after fault codes there will be a 0.5 sec flash and light will remain off. to read codes again do procedure again.

Canceling of codes. make sure fault code is present (short blink and light goes out for long period), depress throttle pedal for at least 10 sec. read fault codes again and check for code 1444 (no faults stored.)

Check also the following, fuel pump, oxygen sensor, fuel injectors, engine coolant temp sensor, idle speed control valve, mass airflow sensor and too many other things.

Sounds like the shutter needs repair. Either the opening curtain is sticking or the closing curtain is not holding long enough. Another problem might be the camera's sync speed might be lower than 1/125 of a second. Many cameras use 1/60th or 1/90th of a second as their flash sync speed.

In addition to the "quirks" of the Landscape and Aperture Priority Modes (neither mode works as documented!)..... The camera also behaves differently in full Manual Mode (it changes the settings, whether you want it to or not to compensate for available light)... At lower Zoom Levels, the camera will adjust the Shutter Speed Only, to try and compensate for available light... For example: with the Camera preset to F5.6 Aperture, and 1/48 sec. shutter speed, the camera will adjust the shutter speed between a range of 1/30 to 1/291 sec, to try and "auto expose" the shot for lower or higher light levels, even though you're in manual mode. At an Aperture Setting of 2.8 and 1/48 of a second, the number of internal steps in shutter speed the camera is willing to take, increases dramatially - for example: shutter speeds up to 1/600 of a second, even though you have the shutter set to 1/48 in manual mode. The camera WILL NOT attempt to adjust the Aperture to compensate for proper exposure in available light (OR WILL IT??).... It depends on your Zoom settings! It won't if your're near to full wide angle, but IT WILL if you are using the Zoom. Once you cross some unknown zoom threshold (it doesn't have to be at full zoom), then the camera begins to change both the Aperture and Shutter speed to compensate for available light, even though you are in "Full Manual", versus Auto Exposure Mode. In Manual Mode, (as in Aperture Priority Mode), the amount of change the camera is willing to make to your settings, appears to be related to a preset number of internal steps, with the number of steps dependent on both Aperture and Zoom Settings, before it gives an EV Warning for Over or Under Exposure conditions.... The type (shutter speed only for wide angle, shutter and aperture for zoom) and amount (number of internal "steps" it takes to increase/decrease shutter speed and increase or decrease aperture), is dependent on the amount of zoom you are using for the current shot.

There is a well documented problem with the W1 (and its brother, the P100). If you are shooting in good light, you will have no problem. If you are shooting in low light or flash, you will encounter various degrees of blurred photos. Unlike most cameras, the W1 has only two f-stops (f2.8 and f5.2). So the camera must select one or the other (nothing in between). The firmware in the camera will try to select f5.2 as long as it can in low light. This results in a slow shutter speed. And with flash you usually end up with a shutter speed of 1/40th of a second. A slow shutter speed is the cause of the blurred photos. If you can hold the camera perfectly still under low light conditins (and flash) you will get good photos. If you use the cameras manual mode and manually select a faster shutter speed you will get good photos. It appears that Sony could fix the problem with a firmware change so that the camera made better use of the ISO settings along with the f-stop selections. However, they have not done so.

FZ20... wide angle = 36mm it is recomended that the average person should use a shutter speed of at least 1/36th of a second to avoid camera shake but with IS the average person can use as low as 1/5th to 1/9th of a second therefore being able to use the camera in lower light FZ20... telephoto = 432mm it is recomended that the average person should use a a shutter speed of at least 1/432 of a second to avoid camera shake but with IS the average person can use as low as 1/54th to 1/108th of a second therefore being able to use the camera in lower light