This may strike some as strange, and it is probably because I don't really know what I'm doing yet. When I shoot a macro shot with my 505V using manual focus and a low aperture, the background is (as expected) very unfocused. (I am not using priority mode.) Not a problem as that was intended, but quite often the background has a strange "criss/cross" or "lattice" texture to it that I cannot explain. Has anyone else experienced this unwanted effect? I could not find mention of it in the forum.
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Re: 505V lattice-type background
You may sometimes see this. It is normal, when it does occur. I believe this has something to do with the fact that the F505V relies upon a diamond-shaped shutter/aperture design rather than having more leaves. This leads to other interesting effects with diamond-shaped lens flares, etc.
Not ideal, but nothing to worry about, really. It won't detract from the beauty and sharpness of your images.
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This error message indicates that the current scene selection mode is not compatible for Macro shooting.
Please check the below figure to view the applicable scene selection modes for the Macro shooting mode.
The macro is not applicable in Landscape, Twilight and Fireworks mode.
You can use other scene selection modes with macro mode.
Thanks for understanding.
I hope the information helpful, if you want any clarification, please let me know.
If you switch lenses and the hair is still appearing on your pictures, it is quite possible you have an actual hair or thread or something located in the camera body in the way of the sensor. Remove your lens and visually examine the inside of the body for debris. Stay clear of the sensor and the mirror, but you can use tweezers to remove an obvious foreign object. You can also command your mirror to stay up and out of the way (see the camera setup menu "mirror lock up") for closer examination. It's best to use a bulb type squeeze blower to blow out debris from inside the camera. Do an internet search on "rocket air blower" and you'll see what I mean. Blowing air from your mouth can introduce moisture.
It limits the focus range. In full, the camera will hunt from one end of the focus range to the other as it seeks to autofocus. You can limit the hunting to one end or the other if you know what you're shooting. This saves time (and battery power) by not hunting focus all over the place.
Select Macro Mode - this is a fairly obvious first step but I’m always surprised by how many digital camera owners haven’t explored the shooting modes that their camera has. Macro mode is generally symbolized with a little flower and when selected it will tell your camera that you want to focus on a subject closer to your lens than normal (the minimum distance allowed will vary from camera to camera - consult your instruction manual to find yours). Macro mode will also usually tell your camera to choose a large aperture so that your subject is in focus but the background is not.
The best setting really depends on the type of pictures you want. Do you want a white background and a completely focused picture or do you want a natural background and more artistic type of picture? The latter is easier to produce as it can be done with a soft hand-held flash and almost any kind of natural lighting conditions and you can put it on a surface according to what you want to get - reflection, colors, shadows and what not. Getting a white background takes more lighting effort and way more Photoshop to cut the item from the background. See the picture of the same rings, different style of photography.
From my experience, many zoom lenses that have a macro feature simply kicks into macro mode when the lens is in fully zoomed position. Remember, macro is used to take pictures of something (usually like a flower, insect, etc.) and to magnify it several or many times larger than it really it is. And as a result the subject is huge and sharply focused with a very blurry background. Another thing to keep in mind is that there is usually a focusing limit for the lens in terms of how close one can focus a subject in MACRO zoom mode. In other words, you (the lens) may have to be at least a foot or more away from the subject in order to automatically focus sharply. On this note, if you have manual focusing capability, you should be able to take pictures in macro zoom mode from even shorter distance from the subject, resulting in more larger than life pictures!