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Rca HD61LPW42 -- we just replaced the color wheel. now we get a picture but only for a few seconds. then it turns off and after a few seconds restarts. this goes on indefinitely. a couple of times we've heard a loud fan noise.

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Anonymous Jul 24, 2011

    The TV has a new lamp -- that was the first thing we replaced when it started having problems. When we turn it on from a cold start, we do get a picture for about 20 seconds, then it powers down and restarts itself -- this cycle goes on indefinitely.

  • Anonymous Jul 24, 2011

    The TV has a new lamp. When we turn on the power switch, we get a picture for about 20 seconds. Then it powers down and restarts. The picture only lasts about 20 seconds before it goes dark and restarts again ... this goes on indefinitely. On a few of the restarts, we have heard a loud fan noise, but that is not the norm.

  • Anonymous Jul 24, 2011

    the power light stays on for about 30 sec, and we have a picture (though it's dim) -- then it switches off -- light blinks 3 times, restarts. light remains steady for about 30 sec. (and we have picture), then it goes off, blinks 3 times, restarts. -- this on-and-off cycling continues indefinitely.

  • Anonymous Jul 24, 2011

    Before we replaced the color wheel, it would take a long time for the TV to power on. We would hear a high-pitched sound, then the power light would flash, and it would stop. It would automatically retry, and eventually, it would power on and work fine for however long we watched it. Then, the next time we would turn it on, the same pattern would recur. It took increasingly longer to start, and eventually, it wouldn't start at all. the color wheel installation seemed pretty straightforward -- how might it be incorrect?

  • Anonymous Jul 24, 2011

    no, I don't have one -- and I wouldn't know how to use it

  • Anonymous Jul 24, 2011

    thanks -- I'll look for someone to help me with this

  • Anonymous Aug 02, 2011

    just replaced the lamp ballast and the problem is more or less the same -- we get a dim picture for about 30 sec., then the screen goes dark, the power light goes off. It switches itself on again and we get another 30 sec of a dim picture. This happens three or four times, and then it stays off. there's no audio -- not sure if it's a matter of adjusting some settings, as it doesn't stay on long enough to check them.

  • Anonymous Sep 23, 2011

    There are five wires going into a plastic harness labeled 'ballast' that plugs into the DMD -- I assume these are the wires to be tested? The first four are white, and the last one (on the right) is blue. Am I supposed to cut the plastic to expose the bare wires in order to attach the alligator clips from the multimeter? Is the blue wire the ground? Am I supposed to test each of the wires individually, with the positive lead from the multimeter attached to the white wire and the ground lead attached to the blue wire each time? Would the expected voltages be the same for each wire?

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Anonymous

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  • Master
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When it shuts off what is the status of the LEDs at the front? Do any of them start blinking? Please provide this info so that we can continue with the diagnosis.

Posted on Jul 24, 2011

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  • Anonymous Jul 24, 2011

    Ok.. That sounds like a faulty ballast to me especially since you say that the picture is dim before it shuts off. What were the symptoms before you replaced the color wheel? Also are you sure that this "fan like noise" is not coming from the color wheel which may not have been installed properly?

  • Anonymous Jul 24, 2011

    Well the only thing I suspected was that, I have seen some people align the wheel incorrectly but that is ruled out in your case. I am now almost sure that its the ballast(that high pitched noise you told me about). All we need to do now is to measure the DC output from ballast to lamp. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?

  • Anonymous Jul 24, 2011

    Ok I will tell you whats the plan anyways so that may be you can get someone to do it for you. The output voltage at the two pins on the ballast from where the two thick wires go to the lamp housing. For this set the voltage should be around 340V. See whether you are getting that voltage or not. +/-20 is ok. Anything past that limit confirms the ballast as the source of the problem.

  • Anonymous Jul 24, 2011

    You are welcome. Thanks for using Fixya.

  • Anonymous Aug 08, 2011

    It does sound like the power supply but we have to confirm it as it can be due to faulty DMD as as well. The DMD sends a power_on command to the ballast . We have to check if it's repeatedly sending this command by measuring the voltage at pin marked as ballast_on or something like that , on the connector coming from the DMD. It should be 3.3V when off and 5V when on command is sent. A multimeter with alligator clips are apt for this kind of diagnosis. Also test the voltage into the ballast from the power supply and check whether all the fans in the set are running. Please provide this info so that we can isolate the source of the fault

  • Anonymous Sep 25, 2011

    Hi. I just got your mail form Fixya. I am currently outside on some work. I will get back to you as soon as I get back home.

    Sai.

  • Anonymous Sep 25, 2011

    Those are not the wires I was referring to. You are looking at some other board. I said that the DC output pins ARE located on the ballast not on wires going to the ballast. I will tell you an easy way to identify the ballast now that you have come this far. Follow the wire(in reference to your image) that says ballast. It will lead you to a rather small board with a transformer on it. You will also see two thick wires going from it to the lamp. The point from where these lines go are the DC output voltage pins. THe purpose of this board is to power the lamp. Measure the output voltage and let me know. I really hope you have understood it. I am thinking of another possibility so we will deal with that after this is done.

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  • Televison & ... Master
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Hello

If the power light blinks slowly,

you've tried to turn on the TV during

the lamp cooldown cycle. Wait

approximately 30 seconds, and the TV
will turn on automatically.

If light blinks, pauses for about a

minute, and blinks again: the lamp is

trying to turn on (TV will turn on

when successful). If TV doesn't turn

on and sequence continues, the lamp also
needs to be replaced.

To order lamp call 1-800-338-0376.

Have your TV serial number

and lamp type available (you'll

find this information on the

sticker that's on the right side of
the TV).
OK.

Posted on Jul 24, 2011

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