My gauges are showing 60 low side 475 high The air is some what cold. comperser is running

First make sure that the ac system is full of freon. Hook up a set of gauges to see what kind of pressures you have. 35-45 low side and 250-375 high side depending on the ambient temp. The rear expansion valve could be bad but also the heat / cold actuator could be bad. Watch this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucOTZAg27lo

high side could read anywhere from 180 to 240 low side will read from 28 to 50

2010 Lexus ES350: Normal cold air from passenger vents but 18 degrees warmer on drivers side. No DTCs and visually verified air mixer servo working normally. Originally when I checked gauge pressures, it was 210 on the high side and about 25 on the low side at idle. So I dismissed the issue being low refrigerant. I checked the system out with my scan tool and couldn't find the issue. I thought the heater core with hot water running through it could be the cause but after blocking one of the heater hoses, I still had the issue. Finally, I rechecked the pressures and the low side was at 20. I added almost 10 oz of refrigerant and at 102 degrees ambient temperature, the pressures are at 240 high and 23 low. Got inside the car and both drivers and passenger vents have 55 degree temps coming out.

Click the link below :----http://wikisolutions.blogspot.in/2012/02/get-free-answers.html

YOU MORE LIKELY NEED MORE REFRIGERANT IN SYSTEM SOUND LOW FIRST HOOK A MANIFOLD GAUGE SET CHECK AC LOW PRESSURE SIDE AND HIGH PRESSURE SIDE.LOW PRESSURE SIDE SHOULD BE 34 PSI AND HIGH SIDE SHOULD BE 228 PSI.

best diagnostic method is dual head gauges. balanced pressure between low and high side in the off position is aroung 90 lbs. running low pressure is 20-40 lbs and high pressure 160-200, is the compressior not coming on? does it stay on, or click on and off. either might mean the freon level is low. try unplugging the low pressure switch on the low side supply line and shorting the pigtail wires together with a paper clip. does the compressor stay on now? if so and the air is warm or cool, freon is low. if the air is cold that switch is bad. if compressor still won't come on the list of possibilities grows longer: compressor, comp fan clutch, AC relay, restriction at several places... repair shop time...

I Think I Can,
You Might Be Blending Hot Air With A/C Cold Air And Being 100Deg Outside, Your Getting
Really Warm/Hot Air Inside,
Your System Is Charged w/Freon, The A/C Compressor Is On/Engaged,
There Are 2-Aluminum Tubes Comming From The Compressor, [In & Out Pressure]
1 Tube Will Goto The Front Condensor, Infront Of The Raidator,
The OTHER Tube Comming Out Of The Condensor Will Goto A Dryer,
[Aluminum Looking Cylinder] Bigger Aluminum Tube[s]
The DRYER Will Then Feed Freon To Your Evap-Coil Inside Your Car [Cool-Air],

OK, The Dryer Tube's, 1 Of Them Should Be Cool/Cold, Locate That Tube, A Thermometer
wrapped w/Alum-Foil Around This Tube,
A/C ON, [A/C Compressor Engaged]
If You See The Temp Is Around 50-55 Degree's Or Lower, You Have Cold Air,
If Not, Above That, Low Freon, Or A restriction In The System. [Comes Later]
You Have Cold Air, You Have Warm/Hot Air Inside Car/Vents?
You Are Blending Hot Air w/Cold A/C Air, Problem Is With Heater-A/C Blend Box
Under Dash. There Are 2 Seperate Coils Under The Dash,
1 For Winter/Heat, Other [Evaporator Coil] For A/C, There Is a Diverter/Flapper door
That, For A/C, Closes Off The Heater Coil, Or It Should, To Prevent Engine Hot Water/Heat
From Blending w/ Cold A/C Air.
Most Are Controlled By A Diaphram, Vaccum Controlled From The Heater-A/C Controller
On The Dash.
If You Can Select From Defrost Vent To Dash and Floor Vents, Most Likely you Have
a Bad Diaphram That Controls The Heat-A/C Flapper Valve.
Most Time's You Can Open/Remove The Glove Box And See It,
A Temp Fix, For Cold Air, Would Be Remove The Vaccum Line From That Diaphram,
And Plug It, Pull The Metal Rod Back On The Diaphram with a Needle Nose Pliers,
If you Get Cold Air, Take a Ty-Wrap, Around The Shaft, Secure It, To Keep The
Vent In The Cold Air Position.
Then You Will Have To Get A New Diaphram Installed, Most Time's, Can Be Done
Through The Glove Box Opening.

Now About The Restriction In A System,
You Will Need A Set Of A/C Gauges, Car-Off, A/C Off, Connect Gauges.
IMPORTANT: The Gauges Before Connecting Should Show Pressure In Them [Freon]
Either The Gauges Have Freon In Them Or They Are In A Vaccum.
Otherwise They Have Air In Them, Air w/Freon=BAD Things.
OK, Gauges Show Pressure, Gauges Not Connected To Anything,
Open Up Both Knob's, Blue [Low-Side], Red [High-Side]
Gauges Needles will Move/Equal Out pressure,
BOTH Gauges Should Read Same Pressure, If Not, Quick Fix, Remove Gauge Glass
Covers, Need Little Screwdriver, If Gauges Off By ie: 4 psig,
Adjsut Low-Side [Blue] By 2psig and other, by 2psig, [Split The Difference]
So Now Both Gauges Read IDENTICAL Pressure.
Close Both Valves, Blue & Red
Connect Gauges To Car, Car=Off, A-C=Off
You Will See Pressure On Both Gauges,
Low Side Shuld Be Around 75-95psig, Depending on Outside Temp, If Around 60 or less
need freon.
OK, BOTH Gauges Should Show SAME Pressure reading,
If There Is MORE Than a 4psig Difference Between Them,
There Is A restriction In The System,
a Plugged "Orfice Tube" [Filter] Part Cost $3.00, Servicing The Filter, Alot More.
Restriction Causing Might Be , Moisture/Air in System [Improper Vaccum On System During Last Repairs], Compressor Breaking Down [Metal, Black Goo Bul-up]

Hope You Get Some Cold Air Soon.

Need clarification...
Does the compressor run steady, cycle on and off continually or even come on at all? If cycles on-off then attach charge manifold/gauge set and bring freon up to proper level. If does not come on at all, then start engine, turn a/c on, remove two-wire plug from low pressure cut-out switch mounted on accumulator. Jumper the wires at plug and see if compressor comes on. If so, bring freon up to proper level.

If charge level was low then check for system leak after system charge with an electronic leak detector if available.

If compressor runs but doesn't cool vehicle then with engine running and a/c on feel (carefully) the lines. High side line should be hot (be careful) and low side line should be cold. If these are both true then it's possible non-cooling condition is due to air temp diverter door not operating or heater valve not shutting off (if so equipped). If low side not cold it could be a plugged orifice tube. If high side not hot it could be bad rings on compressor. Both conditions can be diagnosed with a/c manifold gauge set by noting the pressures.

For safety... if not familiar with differences between hi and low side components or with charge equipment then please take vehicle to qualified person for service.

Look at the LOW pressure gauge reading when the engine is OFF.

On an 80 degree day, the LOW gauge should read about 56 psi or higher if the A/C system contains an adequate charge of refrigerant.
On a 90 degree day, the LOW side reading should be about 70 psi or higher.
If the LOW gauge reading is less than this, the A/C system probably needs some additional refrigerant.

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there is a little filter screen in the high side line. sounds like it clogged low side 70 is ok high should be around 150