Outside of drum has four spring-action plastic cylinders which are attached with metal bars to drum and washer casing. The center of 2 of these cylinder/tubes has popped out and the metal bars have broken. How can I find replacement parts? LG top loader, portable washing machine, model # WF - T8501TP

there are several kinds of plastic cement..everything from superglue to plastic pipe cement like plumbers use..available at most hardware stores..even model glue..I would try one of these before pitching the washer..you nmay be able to screw it on using stainless steel sheet metal screws also..

Hi, That spring you found it could be holding the drum in place. Open the back and see where it could have come off. When they move the machine it might have sprung out. Good luck.

I had to replace part No 8182408 - the washing machine door handle. There is a plastic bar in the middle of the assembly that broke because the door was opened too hard.

There are two springs, the latch, and the plastic piece that brings it all together. The smaller spring is the key, call it the L spring. It is shaped like an L and goes around the ends of the latch. The other spring is the larger and straight and goes around the tops of the plastic piece. The straight spring goes in with the crossbar facing on the outside of the washer. The latch with the L spring fits in between the plastic crossbar with the U shaped end pressing against the latches inside bar. The antenna of the L spring needs to wrap around the plastic bar and fit inside the straight spring bar. This applies pressure on the latch to stay closed. When the handle is pulled, it releases the pressure and allows you to open the door. The Metal bar is used to hold all the pieces together and once you have the alignment right, put it back into the door with the straight spring antenna tucked in the spots on the door, as well as the metal bar ends. Screw in the two spots that holds the assembly in place and you will be set. The door should open and shut easily.

remove upper shoe return springs, loosen but do not remove brake line using line wrench, remove 2 bolts holding cylinder. Have new cylinder ready to install. pull shoes back from cylinder. remove line from cylinder and pull out of housing. Replace with new cylinder, first attaching line, then bolts. reset shoes into cylinder and make sure nothing else has slipped out of place (eg, parking brake cross bar and spring). Replace return springs on post. replace drum. open bleeder valve and allow gravity bleed until all air is out or bleed manually. any questions, lemme know.

Hi, Check inside the drum for loose plastic bars that help tumble the clothes. If you can shake them, open the cabinet top and tighten the bar screws on the outside of the drum. If any appear stripped and don't tighten, remove the bar from the machine and inspect for cracking around the screw holes. If found, replace with new parts. Otherwise, try breaking off matchsticks in the holes and see if the screws will tighten. The top is either held on with screws in the back--then slide the top backwards to remove, or there is a pair of spring clips in the front corners that require a thin putty knife to be slid into each clip and pushed until the clip releases. The back end of the top usually has plastic hinges and won't come entirely free of the cabinet. Hope this helps!

Take care

You need 2 people for this.. Unscrew plastic wingnut down the centre of the agitator.(2) undo 2 phillips head screws under little rubber covers just under lid at front top edge.(3)lift top of machine like a car bonnet,get someone to hold it up for you.(4)Unclip big round plastic ring on top of the bowl,you may find its attached with a spring at the front left hand corner,just lay the plastic ring over front of machine & let it hang.The bowl should just lift straight out.Be carefull,the outside of the metal bowl is like a cheese greater trust me! PS when you put it back together & you lower the top of the machine(make sure that little white plastic lever hanging down) the right hand rear go's outside the righthand rear of the tub NOT squashed on top.Its an out of balance lever & it needs to dangle outside of the bowl/tub right rear.GOOD LUCK!

make sure you loads are balanced, put heaviest clothes in first... if you can rock it by hand then the legs are not adjusted properly. If you stand 2 feet away from front of machine, jump up and down and see it move the floor is soft and you need 2 sheets of plywood to make 1 1/2 inches put under the machine

I had the same problem. I fixed it but not sure how long it will last. There are two load balancing springs one on either side of the drum. In my case one of them was apparently assembled without the plastic bushing where it attaches to the frame of the washer. This caused the spring to wear a slot all the way through the sheet metal and fall off. This left one spring attached pulling the drum to one side causing an unbalanced load. I ordered a new plastic bushing and spring online for about $40 for both. I then used JB Weld to fill in the gap where the sheet metal was worn through then reassembled with new parts. Been fine now for about 6 months.

Depending on your washing machine model, the drum and motor are connected by 2 plastice yellow circular pieces, with a black rubber washer in the middle with holes where the pegs or rods go into. The 2 plastic circular pieces have 3 pegs or rods if you will, that connect to the black rubber washer via 3 holes. Sometimes, one or both of the 2 plastic circular piece pegs get broken off or the rubber washer cracks and breaks apart, so that the motor will not turn the drum. If thats the case, you can purchase the 2 circular pieces and black washer piece as a set.

A total of four shipping bolts need to be installed: two longer ones on the bottom and two shorter ones on the top. Each shipping bolt consists of a metal screw inside a plastic cylinder which fits between the washer suspension and the back of the washer cabinet. The metal screw pulls the washer suspension against the plastic cylinder which, in turn, is pulled against the rear cabinet, thereby securing the suspension against the back of the cabinet. The Whirlpool part number is 285955. These bolts can be ordered from various suppliers for $20 - $30. To install these bolts, you will need a 13 mm wrench and a flashlight so you can see where the bolts screw into on the washer suspension.

The procedure is as follows:
1. On the back of the washer, remove the 4 plastic covers over the oblong shipping bolt holes. Carefully pack these covers with the water and drain hoses as they will be needed when the washer is re-installed in its new location.
2. Using the flashlight as a visual aid, look inside the oblong holes and identify the area on the washer suspension into which the shipping bolts screw. It is a white plastic part that is not directly behind the the shipping bolt holes, but is slightly above that level.
3.Look at the shipping bolts. The bolts described above (Part number 285955) have a a plastic arm at one end . This arm must be sawed-off for installation on older machines. You will have to determine whether or not the arm needs to be removed.
4. Starting with the bottom two holes, carefully slide a shipping bolt through the hole toward the front of the machine. Angle the bolt upward toward the screw mating hole, and carefully guide the bolt into the hole. Use the 13 mm wrench to engage the bolt into the mating hole.
5. Make sure that the plastic end of the bolt is closely seated against the back of the washer cabinet. Using the 13 mm wrench, screw in the lower two bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the upper two shipping bolts.
7. After the plastic part of all 4 bolts has been firmly seated against the back of the washer cabinet, carefully tighten all 4 bolts.
8. Go to the front of the washer and push on the drum. The drum will rotate but it should not rock. If that is the case, then you are done.