The thermistor at the back of the dryer is the inlet thermistor and it has a normal resistance of around 2270 ohm at room temperature, not zero. A zero resistance means the inlet thermistor is shorted and the control board sees it as an overheating condition and does not activate the heater relay. Replace the inlet thermistor with part number WE04X10111.
The thermistor on the blower housing is the outlet thermistor and it
has a normal resistance of around 10000 ohm at room temperature. The heating is good at 17 ohms and inlet safety thermostat and the high-limit thermostat on the heater housing and the outlet safety thermostat on the blower housing must all have continuity.
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Look at the scale setting of your multimeter. You should set it to the R X 1K scale which makes you multiply the reading by 1000. If it's indeed set to the R X 1K scale, then .197 and .220 is 197 and 220 ohms respectively. You are getting a correct reading for the outlet thermistor which is 10.045 and multiplying it by 1000 gives you 10045 ohms.
You have continuity in all of the thermostats and correct resistance for the outlet thermostat so it must be the inlet thermostat.
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If the inlet thermister has 0 ohm's it is shorted, bad. it should read 2270k +/-5 ohm's.
SOURCE: No heat in a GE
The thermistor is therefore bad at zero resistance. Its normal resistance is about 2270 ohms. Replace it. The other thermsitor has a normal resistance of about 10000 ohms. Otherwise, replace it too.
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Thanks for the help. Onscreen diagnostics pointed to the inlet thermistor but couldn't find anything about normal resistance. Thanks again!
Jahn27,
Got to the house to recheck. Reading a Gardner Bender multimeter. Inlet thermistor shows .197 - .220. Outlet thermistor reads 10.045. I read outlet as 10,045 ohms. Not sure if inlet reading is 1970 - 2200 ohms or 197 - 220? Any idea?
Unfortunately, the multimeter has only 1 setting for resistance and is automatic. I just know a few basics of electricity so I'm fishing for answers. Wished I could find someone familiar with the multimeter that I have. I'm assuming 197 - 220 so I'm going to replace the inlet thermistor and see what happens. Thermostats and heating assembly check out fine for continuity and outlet thermistor checks out fine. If inlet doesn't work, do I next look at the blower motor? Wife said there was NO heat but all other functions seemed to run fine. One minute it worked fine, next load it quit and never heated again. Sounds like one part went down.
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