I have a Nikon F601 and I put a 400 iso film recently and I sort of didnt know how to load it on properly so I pressed the shutter release button as I loaded it twice when youre only suppose to press it once and it goes automatically. The problem is I was able to take 3 shots light meter working fine on Manual next thing it completely stopped working as in you can still turn the camera on but the light meter doesnt work and I cant take any shots.. Need help urgent!

Hello Blair,
I too like old school camera, mine are the N2000, N6006, N80, and F100. First without film in the camera I would attempt to release the shutter. If it does then there is something going on with the film transfer causing a bind.

However, If it continues not to release the shutter I would put the FM10 on the shelf then go to KEH.com for another. Just now checked KEH.com, 2014-05-26, a FM10 in EX condition is $89, EX+ condition $99. That would be a much better move than repairing yours and less expensive.

Cordially

The camera should operate perfectly fine without a lens. It should also operate perfectly fine without film (other than for not taking any pictures, of course).
I know this is stupid, but make sure the batteries are inserted in the proper direction. Then make sure the film advance mode selector around the shutter release button is not in the "L" position. L is for Lock, S is for single-frame, and C is for continuous.
If you need a manual you may download a copy here.

If everything in the picture is blurry, you are moving the camera when you press the shutter button. If only the subject is blurry and the background is clear the problem is too slow shutter speed. If this is cause by movement of the camera you must learn to SQUEESE the button while being sure you don't move the camera. It just takes a little practice. If this problem caused by a shutter speed that is too slow, it is remedied by increasing the ISO "film" speed. Even though you have no film, the camera has a "speed" setting that relates to that. The higher ISO value increases the camera's sensitivity to light and thus allows for faster shutter speed. Normally the ISO choices are 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600. Try using 400. The ISO setting is in one of your camera menus. 400 is fast enough to solve your problem in all but very fast movement of either the camera or subject. Using ISO above 400 will cause your pictures to look grainy and not as sharp. Use the highest speed only when absolutely necessary. Slower ISO numbers produce the finest grain and thus the sharpest pictures. It a trade off between ISO and shutter speed because the exposure is a combination of the ISO and shutter speed and lens opening. Each one effects the exposure by half or double.

Confirm tht DX shows in LCD. If not then press and hold shift button then press ISO so "DX" appears.Open Camera Back. Insert film cartridge, pull film leader out to right and align with red index mark (inside film chamber on right). Make sure there is no slack in leader.Close camera back until lock release snaps closed. Fully depress shutter until film advances to first frame.
Confirm " 1" and film transport show in LCD. If Film is not loaded correctly, "ERR" show on LCD. Open cack and reload film.
Users manual can be downloaded from:
http://www.lensinc.net/manuals/Nikon_N6006L.pdf

1. Set the film speed manually or DX to do it automatically by holding down the ISO button and turning the command dial.

2. Slide the camera back lock releases toward each other to open the back.

3. Insert the film cartridge on the left.

4. Pull film leader over to the red index mark on the right.

5. Close the back, making sure there's no slack in the film, and the lock releases snapped close.

6. Lightly press the shutter button. The film icon will appear in the LCD panel.

7. Fully depress the shutter button to automatically advance film to frame 1.

You can download a manual from http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon.htm

Set the film speed with the dial on top of the Photomic unit. Lift the chrome ring and turn so that the film speed is next to the little red arrow.
Yes, the aperture is set by the lens ring. And if you have one of the older finders which uses the prong meter connection, whenever you mount a lens you must turn the aperture ring all the way to the highest number, then back to the lowest number. For old-timers, this is known as the "Nikon twist". It tells the meter system what the widest aperture of the lens is so that it can measure light properly at full aperture.
Yes, the shutter speed is set by the dial on top. The Photomic meter sits on top of it, so you read the shutter speed from the scale on the side of the Photomic dial by the mark on the back.
The other buttons on the front are the lens release button (left side as you hold the camera), DOF preview (button just under shutter release), mirror lock-up (lever ring around DOF button) and self-timer (long lever at bottom).
The T-L ring serves to protect the shutter release from accidental push. If you lift the ring and turn the mark to L, the shutter release is Locked. If you lift and turn to T, it prepares the shutter for Time operation, where the shutter remains open when released without holding the button down as you do at the B speed setting.

Finally, the most help: you can download the manual for free (donation requested, and worth it) at http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_f2_photomic/nikon_f2_photomic.htm

put simply the ISO number is how sensitive the film is to light, the higher the number the more sensitive the film. The ISO on the camera sets the exposure system to give the proper exposure for that film (the f/n80 usually sets the ISO automaticly). Also the higher the ISO the more grainy the picture, I would recommend using ISO 200 film for the pictures you describe. I would set the camera to the P setting it is a good all-around setting.

The ISO is automatically set by the DX code on your film canister - if there is no code, the camera sets ISO 100. If you load canisters yourself with, say ISO 400 film, you can adjust the exposure using the exposure compensation button at the top right side of the LCD ( " +/- " ). Using ISO 400 film set the +/- to minus 2 ( -2 ) so that it will UNDEREXPOSE 2 stops since the film is 2 stops ( 4X ) more sensitive than ISO 100 film.

WHAT YOU ARE SEEING IS BASICALLY AN ERROR WARNING THAT THE SHUTTER SPEED IS NOT RIGHT FOR THE LIGHT CONDITION AND THE LIGHTNING BOLT USUALLY MEANS THE FLASH IS NEEDED. IF THIS IS A FILM CAMERA, IT IS PROBABLY WANTING YOU TO PUT IN THE CORRECT EXPOSURE SETTINGS FOR THE CONDITIONS. DOES THIS HAPPEN WITH ALL CONDITIONS? HAVE YOU TRIED OTHER SETTINGS ON THE CAMERA? LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE HELP.

ARCLIGHT1217

dear ben505,
This could be due to the shutter leaking light from the top or bottom, and it could also be caused by light leaking in through the camera back. The most common cause of edge fogging is light leaking in through the film canister, which happens over time if the unused film is not stored properly. If this is a high ISO film(400 and up) and you load your film into the camera in a very bright enviroment that can also cause film fogging. Try a brand new roll of film and if that doesn't resolve the problem I would have it looked at by a camera service technician.

Sincerely,
Agent Allan
Go Ahead. Use Us.