Question about Bosch HBN 755 Stainless Steel Electric Double Oven

Lower oven button not working

Is this a usual problem

1 Answer

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277 Answers

Yes, this problem is a common one. And it's very easy to fix. Call Bosh support: http://www.fixya.com/Product.aspx?prdid=116504&mode=CNT

Posted on Sep 11, 2005

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I need to find a a schematic wiring diagram for baumatic bce520sl electric oven

If its a short it usually leaves a trail to follow. If its a short to ground the shorted terminal will be blackened and you will usually see residue near the shorted area. If two or more wires have shorted together they will usually be welded to each other or at the very least the insulation where they shorted will be burned. Look for these tell tale signs of a short, or any other signs that look like they don't belong.

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The panel in the oven shows "F1" and beeps

F1 usually indicated a defect in either the keypad or the electronic control. If the error shows when the keypad is disconnected from control, the problem is usually in the control. If the error ceases with the keypad disconnected, the keypad is usually the cause.

On some models the keypad and electronic control are 1 integral part in which case the whole control assembly usually has to be replaced to correct the problem.

Check HERE some solution tips.

Jul 10, 2011 | Ovens

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Hi I lost my manual guide so I don't how to turn the oven on. Please give any idea to use the oven

Hi there,

As I'm unsure of your oven model, I can only give general instructions.

Look for a dial or switch that indicates temperature and turn it on if your oven is electric.

If you have a gas oven, you may have to turn a dial and push it at the same, this is to produce a gas flow. If it makes a "clicking" sound it has peizo ignition and will light itself.

If there is no sound, look in the oven for a lever (usually on the floor) and pull it. This will produce a gas flow which you will have to light with a match. Usually you place the lighted match over an existing hole in the oven floor and this will light the oven. TAKE GREAT CARE!!!! The hole is usually at the back of the oven whilst the lever is usually located towards the front of the oven!

I hope this is of some assistance.

May 08, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

What is an F1 error?

Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
On Magic Chef ranges, F1 usually indicated a defect in either the keypad or the electronic control. If the error shows when the keypad is disconnected from control, the problem is usually in the control. If the error ceases with the keypad disconnected, the keypad is usually the cause.
On some models the keypad and electronic control are 1 integral part in which case the whole control assembly usually has to be replaced to correct the problem.
ok i hope this is very helpful for you please post me a comment and i can help if you need assistance with parts support or disassembley ok
Best regards Michael

Feb 27, 2011 | Magic Chef Ovens

1 Answer

On my GE jkp27w0w2ww i keep having F5 and F3 appear almost everytime i cook. I turn off the oven when it happens and then turn it back on and it usually happens again. Is there something I can do, and what...

F3 is usually an oven temp sensor. Replace the sensor. (pencil shapped probe at back top inside oven) It usually can be replaced from inside the oven by gently coaxing the plastic connector through the hole behind the sensor. Sometimes, it is only the plastic plug connecting the sensor. A possible bad connection can be eliminated by usings ceramic (high heat) twist wire connectors to make better connections.

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F3 message appears and the oven shuts off.

F3 usually means a failed sensor. This is the part that is a small rod about 6 inches or so long usually in the left upper rear corner of the oven. To check this sensor using an ohm meter with the oven at room temp you should get a reading of 1100 ohms.

It may also be possible that you could have a cold solder joint on the control board or bad / burned wire.

Behind the oven controls face plate (located on the side inside wall) - there is usually a mini service manual that may give you more information specific to your model.

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You don't state the exact model but on every oven I've ever fixed this problem on it's a broken door striker catch. Depending on your model, the catch will either be in the oven door or in the oven body; usually they're straightforward to replace but on older ovens spares can be almost as rare as dodo ****. Usually what breaks is a hardened tempered metal spring, so when they're not available as spares I can usually visit a local spring making company and get someone to make one up as a one-off using the fragments of the old one as a pattern. After the catch has been replaced the striker itself (usually a specially shaped pin) may need to be adjusted to engage correctly once more. Undoing the lock nut and screwing it in and out adjusts the depth, and is done after the striker catch has been adjusted side to side or up and down to meet the centre of the striker.

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the usual cuase for this problem is that the element has gone, usually fairly cheap to buty and easy to fit.

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The problem is usually a contactor or relay. The thermostat usually doesn't directly control the elements. Follow the wiring diagram or look at the wires from the thermostat. they usually go to a small box and then to the elements The contacts may sometimes stick or always stick. This part is a lot cheaper than the thermostat. Another problem is a burned out element. (Usually the bake element) This can short to ground and not let it turn off. When the elements are on they should glow evenly all over with no hot spots. Look at the broil element also. It is usually at least part way on during baking.

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