When I tested a 330GS before returning it, I noticed that if your take a picture of a cloudy sky or white wall, one side of the image can be seen to be slightly green. It happens all the time, it's just more obvious when the background is neutral.
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Re: Color shift problem with 330GS
This is because the RGB filters in the camera are not perfect, and there
is no one "green" colour.
The green pixels pick up a wide band of colours, and are
somewhat sensitive even to red and blue, especially near where green
shades into red.
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Check the white balance setting on your camera. Different colors of light such as from the sun or florescent bulbs turn out differently in a camera if it is not adjusted to the color of light you are shooting in. Most cameras do this automatically in auto mode, but if it gets it wrong, you can manually set it until the color looks right. The Options are usually Auto, Clear Sky, Cloudy Sky, Tungsten light, ect..
Most likely your white balance setting needs to be adjusted. You didn't specify the model of your camera, so I can't tell you exactly how to change it (your manual should say). Your camera should have several settings: "A" or "Auto" "Daylight/Sun" "Tungsten" or "Indoors" or "Incandescent" "Fluorescent"
and possibly also: "Flash" "Cloudy" or "Shade"
When taking flash pictures, the "Flash" setting should be best. If you don't have a flash setting, then "Daylight" or "Sun" will be the best.
Human eyes adjust quickly and easily to different colors of light, but cameras see light as it is, so indoor light will look yellow, outside bluish, fluorescent greenish, etc. So digital cameras shift the colors in the image to try to make white objects appear white like they would to your eye. But sometimes they mess up and don't get it quite right. That is where the manual white balance settings come in. If you play with these settings, then you will find you can improve the color quality of many of your pictures.
From the BlackBerry Curve 8520 Home screen, press the Camera key on the side of the phone > Press the Menu key > Scroll to and select Options > Scroll to and select the desired setting:
* White Balance : This setting changes the contrast of the pictures taken to optimal for the listed conditions:
o Automatic: The device automatically adjusts the contrast for each picture.
o Sunny: Ideal for outdoor pictures on a sunny day.
o Cloudy: Ideal for outdoor pictures on a cloudy day.
o Night: Ideal for pictures in low-light conditions.
o Incandescent: Ideal for indoor pictures with incandescent lighting.
o Fluorescent: Ideal for indoor pictures with fluorescent lighting.
* Picture Size: To change the size of pictures taken. Larger pictures require more storage space.
o Large (1600 x 1200)
o Medium (1024 x 768)
o Small (640 x 480)
* Picture Quality: To change the quality of pictures taken. Finer quality pictures require more storage space.
o Superfine: Best quality
o Fine: Medium quality
o Normal: Lowest quality
* Color Effect
o Normal: To take color pictures.
o Black & White: To take black and white pictures.
o Sepia: To take pictures with a sepia tint for an old-fashioned look.
* Store Pictures: This gives you the option to store pictures you take to either the device memory or the media card, if available.
* Folder: To change the default storage location for pictures taken with the camera.
After you adjust your BlackBerry Curve camera settings, pess the Menu key and select save.
Using the on screen menu, check the hue or wall color settings.
Varies the color level from +/- green to +/-blue. The red level is used as reference. This adjustment is only valid for
Video, Component and TV standard inputs (not valid for RGB and DVI digital).
Using the Wall Color Correction [Wall Color]
This function allows for quick adaptive color correction in applications where the screen material is not white.
The following nine options are available.
• OFF • Blackboard
• Blackboard (Gray) • Light yellow
• Light green • Light blue
• Sky blue • Light rose
That model is famous for having bacterial contamination in the CRT coolant causeing halos, and dim pictures with bad overall color issues. You can look into the lens of the CRTs when the set is laying and if the coolant looks cloudy or has any growth there you will notice it right away, and changing the coolant will restore color, clarity and brightness.
Check the WHITE BALANCE settings and the COLOR EFFECTS settings (marked as W. BALANCE and COL. EFFECTS when MENU is pressed).
When you got to the MENU setting, press up or down arrow until you
reached either selection, press the left arrow, and you'll see several options under the selected function. In WHITE BALANCE, there's an option whether
you'll be shooting under sunny or cloudy skies, tungsten or flourescent
lighting, and an option to select Auto or Manually set White Balance.
This affects the over all color tone as it compensates the color
correction depending on your shooting conditions. Fluorescent lighting
for example exhibits blue spectrum, thus setting White Balance to
FLUORESCENT will add warm or yellow tones to the photo. Tungsten lighting and
sunny conditions exhibits yellow lighting, and setting to the White
Balance on this mode will add cool or bluish tone to the picture.
Same with COLOR EFFECTS: settings include WARM, COOL, SEPIA or BLACK AND WHITE (gray scale).
Chances are, you have accidentally set the WHITE BALANCE or COLOR
EFFECTS to any of these. To see if this is the problem, try shooting
under SIMPLE MODE (Marked with a HEART icon at the rotary dial on top
right of the DMC-FZ7). If the problem goes away, then it is with the
WHITE BALANCE and the COLOR EFFECTS settings. Try setting the COLOR
EFFECTS to "OFF", and the WHITE BALANCE to "AUTO".
If all else fails, then you got a problem with the image sensor of your Panasonic DMC-FZ7 Digicam
MANNY DE GUZMAN, JR.
SoundMagik Home Studio
Site Creator, TEENMODELS2007
In very simple terms you simply didn't have enough aperture and sensor
sensitivity to get the same exposure in the camera as you got with your eyes.
The blurring was caused by camera movement while the shutter was open, hand held anything over about 1/15th of a second will be unusable at your shortest focal length.
Night photos are hard as they require maximum aperture to let in enough light, and maximum aperture means minimum depth of field so if you are close to the subject it is hard to get all of it in focus.
You can increase the ISO setting, but that introduces noise into the shot.
As you noticed using flash completely destroys the interesting lighting you were trying to capture. With a proper external flash you would have got a shot as though it were daytime, with a small inbuilt flash you just forced the camera to take a short exposure with a small aperture without adding enough flash light to get the exposure, hence the black picture.
As it was a static subject you could have tried a long exposure with the camera on a trpod, possibly using the self timer to start the shot so that you did not touch the camera at all.
Another area to take care with is colour/white balance. Your eyes are very good at adjusting for any colour cast or hue in the illumination. You will notice that a sheet of white paper looks white to you inside under normal lights, or inside under flourescent lighting, or outside in daylight .
You will find that your camera has to be preset for the colour/temperature of the illumination, to get this right you need to know the spec of the flood lights (halogen, tungsten etc) as it is unlikely the automatic white balance will get this right, being less sophisticated than the human eye/brain combination . You can of course adjust the white balance in who editing software.
I hope this helps....